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Consolidated Macan Brembo upgrade thread (READ FIRST POST)

emichel6888

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
So there aren't other MQB cars with larger MC we could use, like RS3 and TTRS?
That is where I was headed when when I came across this RPV option and figured why not give it a shot, it is a heck of a lot cheaper and easier to do, and turns out it work so so well! There aren't many examples of folks using them on late model cars, although I did find one guy who put them on an otherwise completely stock Lexus, and he was raving about it. The classic hot rodder's and many race cars use them, which is why companies like Wilwood sell them.
I look forward to when other's start doing this modification and rave about what a huge improvement it is, I have no doubt this will happen, it's that good. You know how when you first get in and start the car, and the pedal drops and gets kind of mushy? Well with these RPV's that doesn't happen, the pedal barely moves. It just gives a firm, responsive, brake pedal all the time now with much better feel (feedback) and modulation. So when you can do something that works that well, why would you want to spend a lot more time and money on a different MC?

Oh and one other thing i noticed, the XDS (electronic brake LSD) works a lot better as well. Which makes sense because if the brakes are more responsive to the pedal, it also does the same for the ABS pump actuator. Believe me when I say, you want to do this modification.
 

emichel6888

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
Swapped over to my daily set up.

Now the brakes feel a bit better... not sure what on earth is going on. Still feels like there's air though

Let me guess, your street pads have a bit more meat on them? I think I know what is going on. In my research I came across this post on a Porsche forum, this guy with a 944 had just rebuilt all his calipers with brand new seals and now his brake pedal was extremely low. He was getting ready for a track weekend and was trying all sorts of things, nothing worked. Until one guy says he has seen this before, he says the new seals were sticking to the pistons and deforming to much causing excessive piston retraction.
To fix it he told him to put a set of old worn pads (more worn the better, backing plates if possible) and then hit the brakes. Then remove those pads and push the pistons back but just enough to barely get the new pads in there, even if you have to tap them in with a hammer. Well the guy replied back and said that worked perfectly! He even replied later after his weekend event where he wore the pads completely down and said the issue never returned. So it seems that under certain situations the seals can stick a bit to much to the pistons, could happen with new seals, or with old heat cycled seals?
Sounds like at least one or more of your piston seals is sticking to the piston causing excessive piston retraction. Perhaps that same trick will work for you, or maybe rebuild the calipers with new seals? Perhaps it is a factor of the seal material and the brake fluid? Sometimes those fancy high performance fluids have higher limits but can have other side effects on cars that aren't rebuilt after every race event? Or maybe something in that race brake fluid is interacting with the seal material? Maybe research and see if there is anything online about it, maybe you have to use silicone seals? You never know.
 

emichel6888

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
Out of curiosity I just had a quick look at that brake fluid:
"Castrol SRF is the ultimate racing brake fluid. Its unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high-temperature performance from deteriorating. "

Silicon based lubricants are known to not play well with a variety of rubber seals, over time they tend to cause swelling and deterioration. In fact there are tons of anecdotal reports on multiple forums of that brake fluid damaging caliper seals, and that does not surprise me at all. If you want to keep using that brake fluid you can try those silicon seals, but what effect they will have on brake performance with these calipers is unknown, so you would be the guinea pig.

Or you can put new stock seals in and just use a different brake fluid, something like this: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/rbf-660-factory-line "Very high dry boiling point of 622F (328C) and a wet boiling point of 399F (204C). For all types of hydraulic brake and clutch actuators requiring non-silicone synthetic fluid. Specially designed to resist extreme temperature.

I am pretty sure it was that Castrol SRF that caused your issue, and now I would definitely replace your seals (front and back).
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Out of curiosity I just had a quick look at that brake fluid:
"Castrol SRF is the ultimate racing brake fluid. Its unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high-temperature performance from deteriorating. "

Silicon based lubricants are known to not play well with a variety of rubber seals, over time they tend to cause swelling and deterioration. In fact there are tons of anecdotal reports on multiple forums of that brake fluid damaging caliper seals, and that does not surprise me at all. If you want to keep using that brake fluid you can try those silicon seals, but what effect they will have on brake performance with these calipers is unknown, so you would be the guinea pig.

Or you can put new stock seals in and just use a different brake fluid, something like this: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/rbf-660-factory-line "Very high dry boiling point of 622F (328C) and a wet boiling point of 399F (204C). For all types of hydraulic brake and clutch actuators requiring non-silicone synthetic fluid. Specially designed to resist extreme temperature.

I am pretty sure it was that Castrol SRF that caused your issue, and now I would definitely replace your seals (front and back).

I'm using 660 and it seems to play well.
 

nono0044

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Toronto
Out of curiosity I just had a quick look at that brake fluid:
"Castrol SRF is the ultimate racing brake fluid. Its unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high-temperature performance from deteriorating. "

Silicon based lubricants are known to not play well with a variety of rubber seals, over time they tend to cause swelling and deterioration. In fact there are tons of anecdotal reports on multiple forums of that brake fluid damaging caliper seals, and that does not surprise me at all. If you want to keep using that brake fluid you can try those silicon seals, but what effect they will have on brake performance with these calipers is unknown, so you would be the guinea pig.

Or you can put new stock seals in and just use a different brake fluid, something like this: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/rbf-660-factory-line "Very high dry boiling point of 622F (328C) and a wet boiling point of 399F (204C). For all types of hydraulic brake and clutch actuators requiring non-silicone synthetic fluid. Specially designed to resist extreme temperature.

I am pretty sure it was that Castrol SRF that caused your issue, and now I would definitely replace your seals (front and back).

Friend runs SRF and has no issues at all with the stock PP/R calipers. Maybe Brembo uses different rubbers?

Idk, just going to see what the dealer says first. Then probably do the seals again with high temp stuff.

I was planning to switch to brembo htc64t anyway.
 

emichel6888

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
Friend runs SRF and has no issues at all with the stock PP/R calipers. Maybe Brembo uses different rubbers?

Idk, just going to see what the dealer says first. Then probably do the seals again with high temp stuff.

I was planning to switch to brembo htc64t anyway.

Can't be sure, but sure seems like a reasonable possibility. How long have you and your friend been using using that brake fluid? Could be different rubber, or maybe because this caliper already lowers the pedal engagement to begin with, it is just more sensitive to seal degradation? Maybe the stock caliper seal is also degrading and just takes a lot longer before it develops a noticeable issue? Just throwing out ideas, but do a search on "Castrol SRF seal damage" there is a lot on that subject.

Are you going to try the silicon seals? Sorry you're having issues, but on the bright side maybe we will all learn something from it.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
Friend runs SRF and has no issues at all with the stock PP/R calipers. Maybe Brembo uses different rubbers?

Idk, just going to see what the dealer says first. Then probably do the seals again with high temp stuff.

I was planning to switch to brembo htc64t anyway.

I'd definitely try switching fluid first. Swollen seals will likely require replacement though, so if you've been running it long enough it likely won't fix the issue by itself.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Confirmed wheel fitment
Wheel BrandModelSpacerSizeETFitNotes
AdvanGT0mm18"x9"45mmYesPost 158
BBSCO1018x844YesPost 638
BBSSR517x7.548YesPost 380
EnkeiTY-5518x845YesPost 413
EnkeiRPF12017x7.548NoPost 2
FordgestarF14618X8.544YesPost 717
KonigRennfrom518x945YesPost 630
KonigHypergram818x8.543NoPost 439
KonigRunlites1017x7.548YesPost 3
KonigDekagrams1018x8.543YesPost 417
MotegiMR145018x8.542YesPost 492
NeuspeedRSE10018x8.545YesPost 4
NeuspeedRSE05017x845YesPost 2
NeuspeedRSE16017x8.545YesPost 74
NeuspeedRSE12318x8.545YesPost 258
OEMSpare15YesPost 630
OEMPretorias1019x850YesPost 630
OEMAustin10-15?18x7.549?Post 516
OEM019x849YesPost 273 - These fit without any spacer. 19x8 +49 from 8V A3/S3
OEM15YesPost 272 - OEM 17" will clear with 15mm
OEMPretorias2018x7.551NoPost 1
OEM318x846YesPost 431 - OEM S3 wheels were very close without a spacer
OEMPost 378 - 19" Audi A3
OZ RacingLeggera019x8.547YesPost 303
OZ RacingLeggera1019x848YesPost 272
RaysG25018x850YesPost 289
Sport EditionP41217x7.542YesPost 2
Titan7T-R10018x8.544YesPost 315


Similarities between the global VAG platforms carry over to brake calipers. The MLB calipers bolt right onto the MQB aluminum knuckles. These 4 piston Brembo calipers fitted on the 2015 to current Macan Base and 2014 to 2016 Q5 3.0T and TDI
  • New brake lines from a Macan or a custom set are required
  • Calipers clear 345mm rotors from the 2012 Golf R
  • 345mm fitment is better than stock 340mm Performance Package with less unswept area on the rotor
  • Pad shape 1001 fit and are common
  • Calipers clear certain 17" wheels
View attachment 179109

Pictured is a 2015 GTI with about 10,000 miles on these pads and rotors:
Wheels - Neuspeed RSE05 - 17x8" +45mm - a perfect fit without spacers or hub rings
Calipers - Base Macan Brembos
$238.40 each plus $15-$30 shipping with no added tax
https://www.delawareporscheparts.co...LsQz0OQln-SYGB8axe4TgcQMAv0z7RDRoCeSEQAvD_BwE
Rotors - MK6R 345mm Zimmerman
345mm Zimmerman blanks - $65 each free shipping plus tax
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-disc-zimmermann-z-coat-1k0615301m
Lines - Stainless clear coated Techna-Fit
$50 per set plus shipping no added tax
https://www.techna-fit.com/auto.html
Pads: Street - Centric 104.10010, Powerstop Z23-1001
Track - Raybestos ST-43 R1001.15
Cooling fins - $12 each plus shipping no added tax
Left - https://www.e-acca.com/search.html?..._search_results_by=final_price&smart_search=1
Right - https://www.e-acca.com/search.html?..._search_results_by=final_price&smart_search=1
Fluid - Castrol SRF - $68 per liter free shipping plus tax. Free refills (often backordered)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/dot-4-react-srf-racing-brake-fluid-1-liter-castrol-12512


Left Caliper
95B-615-123
8R0-615-107G

Right Caliper
95B-615-124
8R0-615-108G

Porsche Macan lines
5Q0-611-701

I didn't notice you had done this. Awesome.
 

Escape Hatch

Autocross Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
No one able to measure one of their callipers for me? :(

15961271992902859063426911845878.jpg


15961281271687887969632347403068.jpg
 
Last edited:

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
guess I wont be able to fit these with my hypergrams it seems, even adding a 8mm spacer above someone couldn't get it to fit. :/ Mine are the new version but I'm sure it wouldn't make a difference
 

TheMuffinMan

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Virginia
That is where I was headed when when I came across this RPV option and figured why not give it a shot, it is a heck of a lot cheaper and easier to do, and turns out it work so so well! There aren't many examples of folks using them on late model cars, although I did find one guy who put them on an otherwise completely stock Lexus, and he was raving about it. The classic hot rodder's and many race cars use them, which is why companies like Wilwood sell them.
I look forward to when other's start doing this modification and rave about what a huge improvement it is, I have no doubt this will happen, it's that good. You know how when you first get in and start the car, and the pedal drops and gets kind of mushy? Well with these RPV's that doesn't happen, the pedal barely moves. It just gives a firm, responsive, brake pedal all the time now with much better feel (feedback) and modulation. So when you can do something that works that well, why would you want to spend a lot more time and money on a different MC?

Oh and one other thing i noticed, the XDS (electronic brake LSD) works a lot better as well. Which makes sense because if the brakes are more responsive to the pedal, it also does the same for the ABS pump actuator. Believe me when I say, you want to do this modification.

Very intrigued by the setup and something I'd consider.

Seems straight-foward enough and for ~$130 in parts (assuming you have tools) that's not a bad option.
 

nono0044

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Toronto
Dealer told me to get bent basically lol.

Going to do the high temp seals and boots, and swap over to a different fluid. If that doesn't work then I'll try the MC.

Fuck me right?
 
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