2017 GTi PP at VIR

[victorofhavoc]

Why not just hit the easy button and do GT3/2 ducts with trimmed heatshield?

Those are deflectors more than ducts, and they just kind push air towards the caliper. By having proper ducts with proper backing, you're delivering air to the center area of the rotor, and keeping a layer of cool air trapped to the edge of the rotor. It's significantly more efficient. I have the rs3 ducts, and while they did help with some of the temp issues, they are by no means a ducted solution. My difference was going from about 750-800 degrees after a cool down lap and back to paddock before the rs3 ducts to about 700 after if I recall correctly. That's not taking into account the 10 degree cooler day that I was running on with the deflectors.

 

[Crild]

RIP to us golf R owners who don't have a good ducting path due to the additional cooling units. Maybe use the under bumper ducts? I might have to come up with that or build a duct that goes into the caliper bridge.

 

[victorofhavoc]

RIP to us golf R owners who don't have a good ducting path due to the additional cooling units. Maybe use the under bumper ducts? I might have to come up with that or build a duct that goes into the caliper bridge.

Naca duct in front of the wheel well in the plastic, or mount it a tad further back or forward where there's room to be flush with the bottom. That should suck plenty of air.

 

[Mini7]

So my goal is to dump air into the inside of the rotor so it can cool the rotor evenly from the inside out. This also protects the wheel bearing and ABS sensor from excess radiant heat. Dropping rotor temps will extend rotor and pad life on a BBK.
Packaging is tight. I really want to get the air ducted to the inside of the rotor. But is looks as though I may have to compromise and have some of the air hit about 5/16” of the inner rotor face, which is not ideal.

 

[GTIfan99]

So my goal is to dump air into the inside of the rotor so it can cool the rotor evenly from the inside out. This also protects the wheel bearing and ABS sensor from excess radiant heat. Dropping rotor temps will extend rotor and pad life on a BBK.
Packaging is tight. I really want to get the air ducted to the inside of the rotor. But is looks as though I may have to compromise and have some of the air hit about 5/16” of the inner rotor face, which is not ideal.

I guess it's worth it if you're having problems keeping them cool, you could do the Macan Brembo upgrade I did with GT3 ducts. It cost me $800 and sold PP for $450. Uses 345 x 32 rotors and a standard Brembo 4 pot pad, which cuts cost of pads to almost half. Same pads are used in everything from SS Camaro, GT Mustang, RS3, STI, EVO, and rear of Viper and Z06. I think the R/PP brakes are a losing proposition long term if you're tracking. It's super easy to swap pads too.

 

[donefor]

I guess it's worth it if you're having problems keeping them cool, you could do the Macan Brembo upgrade I did with GT3 ducts. It cost me $800 and sold PP for $450. Uses 345 x 32 rotors and a standard Brembo 4 pot pad, which cuts cost of pads to almost half. Same pads are used in everything from SS Camaro, GT Mustang, RS3, STI, EVO, and rear of Viper and Z06. I think the R/PP brakes are a losing proposition long term if you're tracking. It's super easy to swap pads too.

NOOOO! Send me down another rabbit hole, why dontcha!

Since i'm especially lazy, can you please point me to a thread that might describe the part nos, weights, etc? I went PP front and the braking is lovely but the added unsprung mass over the non-PP makes the front end feel like a school bus.

 

[GTIfan99]

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/macan-vs-tts-callipers.366204/page-4
Post 71 has all the info you need.

 

[Mini7]

Secondary air combi valve just crapped out before my annual smog test. Valve stuck open. Go figure.

Does VW make these things from gold. WTF. All these way over engineered emissions systems that are not covered by the emissions warranty.

 

[victorofhavoc]

Secondary air combi valve just crapped out before my annual smog test. Valve stuck open. Go figure.

Does VW make these things from gold. WTF. All these way over engineered emissions systems that are not covered by the emissions warranty.

What were the symptoms that let you know this was the issue?

 

[Mini7]

Check engine light And P0413 code. Valve stuck open. Took it to the dealer to troubleshoot.

 

[Mini7]

Got my car back after after a driving a Passat courtesy car for a week. Definitely appreciate my car a little more. Lol
Sharp brakes on demand with negligible pedal travel. Firm suspension with precise turn in vs a car that feels like it will fall on its face. I’d gotten so accustomed to my GTi and became critical to its handling on track because I want to extract more car speed and my handling preference ( wanting more front end bite and more precise steering feel ). It’s been super fun commuting to work and attacking corners without worrying about the car falling over. My car definitely has some additional NH- noise and harshness (no vibration) over broken asphalt, expansion joints and potholes. You have to drive slower over broken and potholed parking lots picking your path with care, but over smooth roads the difference is not that bad. The upside is improved handling and feedback to the driver at the expense of some comfort. This is not for everyone, but being without my car for a week made me miss my precise handling GTi. Some comfort is compromised for sure but for me it’s an acceptable price to pay. Funny how you become accustomed to it as it becomes the new “normal “.

 

[Mini7]

255-35-18 MPS4S Tire Clearance

Here are some photos showing tire clearance for my 255-35-18 MPS4S tires.
Stock ride height
-2F/-1.8R
SuperPro 018k LCA

No rubbing issues on the street with Neuspeed RSE10’s 18x8.5 et 45View attachment 158620View attachment 158621View attachment 158622View attachment 158623View attachment 158624View attachment 158625View attachment 158626View attachment 158627View attachment 158628

Moving the Fuel Tank Over (GTi only)
So I tried moving my fuel tank over towards the driver side to create a little more room in the right rear. Loosed the the 2 bolts holding the saddle strap and the one bolt by the center tunnel.

I only managed to get about 4mm of movement before the strap caught on the fuel tank. You barely see the witness marks in the photos. What was disappointing was that I did not see this translate to additional clearance for the wheel. I had limited time so tightened everything up. I suspect that I may need to elongate the holes on the saddle strap both front and rear to get some true movement of the tank and improved wheel clearance.

Currently my rear Camber is at -2 degrees and I want to keep it there based on tire wear.

For those wanting to go to a 9” wheel, the rim would gain 6.35mm to the inside & outside for a 1/2” gain over the 8.5” I have in the photos. Taking it approximately 2mm past the tire lip protector And closer to the fuel filler protection plate. An ET42 or ET40 may be the better offset for the rear for aggressive tire fitment for the track.
I’m now curious whether a 9” et40 will clear the outside fender at the front?

MPS4S has a 8.8” tread width for a 255-35-18 which I have fitted. Some folks have fitted Direzza’s in the same size which run wider than the Michelins.
Direzza Z111 has a 9.6” tread width for a 255-35-18

 

[Mini7]

Winter Mods - Cooling Upgrades
Purchased some cooling upgrades during the Black Friday sales. IE Intercooler and a CSF radiator.The IC will keep IAT’s in check. I’m curious to see how the radiator impacts cooling. I had a long chat with the guys at GMP Performance at my last track day and they strongly recommend an upgraded radiator based on their DE rental GTi. APR were at VIR testing their tunes on a couple turbo Caymans and a FX M3. They also recommend upgrades to the the cooling system/capacity based on their Porsche testing.

I had been leaning towards a Unitronic tune for my car, but decided on going with the APR low torque stage 1. GMP is a APR Dealer and they are at most of the DE’s I attend at VIR. If I have any issues, I have support on hand at the track. They have also helped out checking and clearing the odd code I get at the track. ABS Sensor and Tire Pressure monitoring being the main culprits.

I unboxed this evening and fitted the two coolers together. They fit together reasonably well. There is a decent air gap between the two. I suspect that the radiator fans will be pushed inboard toward the motor by a 1/2” or so. Getting the driver side IC hose on may prove interesting. Not sure that I will be able to install the two coolers as a complete unit.....

They may be just a little to bulky, awkward and heavy to fit premounted. Some advice from folks who have installed an IC will be helpful.

 

[Crild]

I also purchase a CSF main radiator + Apr IC for the upcoming season. Didn't really "need" it but I figure having some lower temps will be healthier in the long run. Both are still in the box and have even thought about putting them together. Don't forget the IE is already confirmed to fit with the CSF radiator.


Still stock tune over here and Unitronic is the front runner for me as well. Apr has bad customer service & friends have bad experiences with the personell at Apr so they tell me to avoid them. I'm also thinking of doing the dsg cooler as well because if I already have the bumper cover off I might as well so I don't have to take it off twice and damage the tabs more.

 

[victorofhavoc]

Winter Mods - Cooling Upgrades
Purchased some cooling upgrades during the Black Friday sales. IE Intercooler and a CSF radiator.The IC will keep IAT’s in check. I’m curious to see how the radiator impacts cooling. I had a long chat with the guys at GMP Performance at my last track day and they strongly recommend an upgraded radiator based on their DE rental GTi. APR were at VIR testing their tunes on a couple turbo Caymans and a FX M3. They also recommend upgrades to the the cooling system/capacity based on their Porsche testing.

I had been leaning towards a Unitronic tune for my car, but decided on going with the APR low torque stage 1. GMP is a APR Dealer and they are at most of the DE’s I attend at VIR. If I have any issues, I have support on hand at the track. They have also helped out checking and clearing the odd code I get at the track. ABS Sensor and Tire Pressure monitoring being the main culprits.

I unboxed this evening and fitted the two coolers together. They fit together reasonably well. There is a decent air gap between the two. I suspect that the radiator fans will be pushed inboard toward the motor by a 1/2” or so. Getting the driver side IC hose on may prove interesting. Not sure that I will be able to install the two coolers as a complete unit.....

They may be just a little to bulky, awkward and heavy to fit premounted. Some advice from folks who have installed an IC will be helpful.

View attachment 163651View attachment 163652View attachment 163653View attachment 163654View attachment 163655View attachment 163656

The intercooler/radiator swap is a big job. I broke some plastic along the way and had to wait for replacements to be shipped in. As a result my car was undriveable for 2 weeks. It's not particularly difficult, but there are a lot of parts. It's easiest to pull the headlights and entire front assembly.

Your bottom fitment looks good, but does that top clip in well? My stock radiator didn't do well with my unitronic intercooler, so I pushed some expanding foam in to keep noise away.