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What oil do you run?

Audi Junkie

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
PA
Triax 5W-30 Euro formula Extended interval 504/507

triax.JPG


See those specs? Triax "recommends" their oil for them, but it is NOT fully approved (licenced) by the mfg.
More than a few oil companies play word games with specifications., it's something to be aware of. Not a big deal in 502 apps at 5000 miles, but it could easily void a warranty repair claim, especially in a glitchy engine application, even moreso if running it at full duration ocis.

At this moment, BMW has been withdrawing LL-01 from oil specifications. Check the label on your favourite oil if you don't believe me. The reason could be from a contract/licence issue, or from an updating of the test sequences, which is what I am told. It's a weird situation, but if you consider the fact LL-01 isn't even being licenced now, you really have to wonder what the boys at Triax are thinking, or if they even know. It just goes to the point that if you want or need spec oil, be sure you are actually getting it.... almost like the sludged dino oil issue I mentioned from B5 1.8t. I use MB spec sheets because it's easily referenced. etc, etc... if your oil claims VW or MB specs and isn't on this list....it's not factory approved.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html
229.5 exceeds VW 502, and 229.51 compares to VW 504
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
Pennzoil Euro L is on there...
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html
 
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goodvibes

Go Kart Champion
Location
IL
View attachment 162216

See those specs? Triax "recommends" their oil for them, but it is NOT fully approved (licenced) by the mfg.
More than a few oil companies play word games with specifications., it's something to be aware of. Not a big deal in 502 apps at 5000 miles, but it could easily void a warranty repair claim, especially in a glitchy engine application, even moreso if running it at full duration ocis.

At this moment, BMW has been withdrawing LL-01 from oil specifications. Check the label on your favourite oil if you don't believe me. The reason could be from a contract/licence issue, or from an updating of the test sequences, which is what I am told. It's a weird situation, but if you consider the fact LL-01 isn't even being licenced now, you really have to wonder what the boys at Triax are thinking, or if they even know. It just goes to the point that if you want or need spec oil, be sure you are actually getting it.... almost like the sludged dino oil issue I mentioned from B5 1.8t. I use MB spec sheets because it's easily referenced. etc, etc... if your oil claims VW or MB specs and isn't on this list....it's not factory approved.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html
229.5 exceeds VW 502, and 229.51 compares to VW 504
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
Pennzoil Euro L is on there...
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html
The Triax Ultra VX look like good oils but they don't actually appear on and 502/504 lists I've seen. Any idea if they are actually approved oils or is the maker just claiming to meet and exceed those specs?
 

jurotek

New member
Location
Northern Nevada
Avoid this oil like plague. ACEA A3/B4 is a high ash (SAPS) oil which is detrimental to GDI engines intake valves.
Much better choice is low saps oils ACEA C1 or C4. Also consider thinnest base oil possible like 0w-20 due to their higher NOACK which decreases deposit formation on intake valves due to their increased volatility / increased evaporative cleaning. Higher viscosity oils have usually lower NOACK (decreased volatility and evaporation) which contributes to increased deposit formation.
I only run 0w-20 ST HM SN PLUS with 5K OCI with great results. Mobil1 EP 0w-20, PPPP 0w-20 are also great choices for GDI engines with high quality base oils.
The latest API SN PLUS was specifically developed for turbocharged engines to protect against LSPI so look for oil with that spec.
 
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Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Avoid this oil like plague. ACEA A3/B4 is a high ash (SAPS) oil which is detrimental to GDI engines intake valves.
Much better choice is low saps oils ACEA C1 or C4. Also consider thinnest base oil possible like 0w-20 due to their higher NOACK which decreases deposit formation on intake valves due to their increased volatility / increased evaporative cleaning. Higher viscosity oils have usually lower NOACK (decreased volatility and evaporation) which contributes to increased deposit formation.
I only run 0w-20 ST HM SN PLUS with 5K OCI with great results. Mobil1 EP 0w-20, PPPP 0w-20 are also great choices for GDI engines with high quality base oils.
The latest API SN PLUS was specifically developed for turbocharged engines to protect against LSPI so look for oil with that spec.

o_O
 

goodvibes

Go Kart Champion
Location
IL
Avoid this oil like plague. ACEA A3/B4 is a high ash (SAPS) oil which is detrimental to GDI engines intake valves.
Much better choice is low saps oils ACEA C1 or C4. Also consider thinnest base oil possible like 0w-20 due to their higher NOACK which decreases deposit formation on intake valves due to their increased volatility / increased evaporative cleaning. Higher viscosity oils have usually lower NOACK (decreased volatility and evaporation) which contributes to increased deposit formation.
I only run 0w-20 ST HM SN PLUS with 5K OCI with great results. Mobil1 EP 0w-20, PPPP 0w-20 are also great choices for GDI engines with high quality base oils.
The latest API SN PLUS was specifically developed for turbocharged engines to protect against LSPI so look for oil with that spec.
Actually, it meets dexos2 so not so bad. In these, using a heavier weight for less blowby and to stay in warranty might be a good idea. Anyone still in warranty would have a claim issue using your recommendation. Curious, have you done any analysis after hard driving? I know 20w can work fine in many motors requesting higher weights but was interested if you've verified it. I'd consider something heavier for those that run their cars hard. You only have to get through the film once to have an ongoing issue. Happened to my bro on his BRZ with 0w20. Did one moderate track day with and now the copper stays high. Even has an oil cooler. No free lunches here. I also suspect those oils have more calcium that the Castrol 0w40 euro so there's always the lspi issue to consider and a lower weight may contribute a bit. I don't think there's a 'best' answer here but agree that 0w20 is likely fine for wear etc on a normal daily driver. For those that push a bit harder, or want to keep their warranty I'd go with one of the big 3 502 0w40 oils or whatever VW specs. They're basically heavy 30w anyway.
 
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Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Avoid this oil like plague. ACEA A3/B4 is a high ash (SAPS) oil which is detrimental to GDI engines intake valves.
Much better choice is low saps oils ACEA C1 or C4. Also consider thinnest base oil possible like 0w-20 due to their higher NOACK which decreases deposit formation on intake valves due to their increased volatility / increased evaporative cleaning. Higher viscosity oils have usually lower NOACK (decreased volatility and evaporation) which contributes to increased deposit formation.
I only run 0w-20 ST HM SN PLUS with 5K OCI with great results. Mobil1 EP 0w-20, PPPP 0w-20 are also great choices for GDI engines with high quality base oils.
The latest API SN PLUS was specifically developed for turbocharged engines to protect against LSPI so look for oil with that spec.

I hope you know that many oils exceed API SN Plus without being SN Plus certified. Don't let marketing hype blind you. Telling people to consider running the thinnest base oil to avoid dirty valves is the most ridiculous thing I've heard this year. Oh wait... :unsure: It's much more complicated than that.
 

jurotek

New member
Location
Northern Nevada
No I haven't done analysis on oil I run. Why waist money when there's plenty of UOA's on ST oil all over the net with great results even after 10K miles exceeding some high priced boutique oils with bloated advertising budgets. Don't knock down ST just because it's sold by Walmart.
ST is made by one of the oldest and most reputable oil blender (WPP - example MAG1) in the world which holds the largest API licences and certifications.
Their oil blends are sold in over 50 countries throughout the world.
They know something about the oil being in business since early 1900's.
As far as warranty, any approved API SN, SN Pus, ILSAC GF5 oil will not void it (confirmed with my local VW shop) as long as you save your receipts.
ST bottle doesn't show approved by VW because it was never tested by VW (it costs big money to do that) but in reality far exceeds those specs.
 

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
No I haven't done analysis on oil I run. Why waist money when there's plenty of UOA's on ST oil all over the net with great results even after 10K miles exceeding some high priced boutique oils with bloated advertising budgets. Don't knock down ST just because it's sold by Walmart.
ST is made by one of the oldest and most reputable oil blender (WPP - example MAG1) in the world which holds the largest API licences and certifications.
Their oil blends are sold in over 50 countries throughout the world.
They know something about the oil being in business since early 1900's.
As far as warranty, any approved API SN, SN Pus, ILSAC GF5 oil will not void it (confirmed with my local VW shop) as long as you save your receipts.
ST bottle doesn't show approved by VW because it was never tested by VW (it costs big money to do that) but in reality far exceeds those specs.

so much wrong with this post. Translation "I read the oil company's website and can regurgitate it. I've also been misinformed by my local VW shop which is not a dealership that handles warranties."
 
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