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Mk7 big turbo mpi dyno number/reliability

1jzlive

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Florida
Jumping in late here as we have been absent from the forum for a bit. The tuner and fuel are going to be your most important factors, a good tuner and tune coupled with good fuel will do you well. Running a custom UM Flex Fuel tune, and pump E85. We have been pushing 450WTQ, and 500ISHWHP on our stock motor GTI for about 12K miles now. This includes at least 12 trips to the drag strip with getting close to 100 passes, a full day at Thunderhill road course where the GTI put down a lap 1 sec faster than out shop F80 BMW M3 and did on tires that cost $45 each, it also did a full day at a 1/2 mile event which is prob the hardest on the motor, full load all the way up to the top of 5th or 160MPH. We also have lent the car to 3 customers, and let multiple employees take it home. No one was easy on it. This car has never once let us down, and we plan to take it back to the strip next week. Running a big turbo at high power levels is totally doable for extended periods of time, just use good fuel, and a good tuner!

Thank you Sir! great explanation on what the car has been through, Kind of the answers i was looking for. Not because it is holding at those power levels but ir shows e how the car has been treated especially the lent to customers part. (When all know they ragged on that boy. This thread isnt related to this topic ,but i had a few questions on fueling, mpi from PR is the fueling im going with and their fuel lines. But my biggest issue is lpfp. Vendor told me to go walbro 525 for my "500whp 400torq* goal.but a walbro 450 is more then enough pressure.though i hear thr issue is pushing the 450(for full e85) is the stock controlling module. Id rather not buy a external fuel pump controller so dont know what to do in the sense why go walbro 525 when this car will never see close to the max pressure(or if i get 525 i wont need external fuel controller) Cant i just run a relay on the 450 to have have it running 100percent at required voltage all the time ? Btw thanks in adavanced.
 

CandyR32

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Downey, CA
We already talked about this earlier in the thread:

The Bosch 4 bar is not qualified linear below 0.5 bar which is fine for the diesel cars it was designed for, but not for gasoline ones.

UM is running a more expensive AEM 5 bar map, this is why the car runs perfect. The 4 bar kits everyone is selling for the manifold are not ideal. Throttle pipe is fine and will get you 4-5 seconds of over 3 bar boost (running one sensor) before you get a code.


Maybe UM does non-linear mapping so the idle is better with their 4 bars, which I am not sure is possible with Eurodyne. Maybe Matt knows better.

Lets try to keep this thread drama free please. Going pretty well.


Just let me be clear, UM will run smooth on the cheaper Twin 4 bar or a 5 bar set up. It isn't a case of you have to spend more money for the expensive AEM 5 bar sensor.
 

Mars1

Ready to race!
Location
South FL
a 1500 road trip to Vegas where without changing the tune, the car got 28MPH.

28 mpg on e85? Wow, I'm lucky to get 22 mpg on e85 average.

Even at 22 mpg it'ts about a break even vs the cost/mile running 93 though for me though. 28 mpg is about what I averaged on IS20 stage 2 93 octane.
 

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
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wy2sl0

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ontario
There are people running decent on the dual 4 bar setup if you get the values perfect and good sensors, I have 2-3 clients that have no issues. Others like even myself notice it on first throttle input and the sensor does not read correctly down low despite being matched to a reference source. I spoke with UM and they did some software trick to get it to work which is probably running open loop at idle or something to negate the vacuum reading being off.

At the end of the day, you can run them both and improve the driving my going through a vcds value matching process.

The aem sensor is designed for operating in a gasoline engine.

Meanwhile Vargas posted no technical data or anything, just stirred the pot while promoting his turbo. Cars have outrun you in ET and MPH on stock fuel and hpfp only in a heavier car. Go run 10.7 and people might start taking you seriously.

All I can say is that with what is available on Eurodyne, the dual 4 bar setup is not guaranteed to be perfect. Even with values bang on, it's noticeable.
 
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RecycledDonuts

Ready to race!
Location
Alabama
Ok, I have read through most of the previous pages for information. I just plan on running a hybrid is38 and keeping power a shave under, or close to, 400hp. Would I be looking into the hpfp and lpfp replacements? I do not plan on making a gorilla monster. I just want a step up from what I am running now. Any information would be appreciated. I am spanking new to changing out the turbo on this car. I tried searching for different threads, but most start out in deep with parts, logs, amperage that I cannot find my ass anywhere. I will go ahead and say that a clutch and intercooler are in the works for the first of the year. Any thing after that I may need a little guidance with.
 

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
Ok, I have read through most of the previous pages for information. I just plan on running a hybrid is38 and keeping power a shave under, or close to, 400hp. Would I be looking into the hpfp and lpfp replacements? I do not plan on making a gorilla monster. I just want a step up from what I am running now. Any information would be appreciated. I am spanking new to changing out the turbo on this car. I tried searching for different threads, but most start out in deep with parts, logs, amperage that I cannot find my ass anywhere. I will go ahead and say that a clutch and intercooler are in the works for the first of the year. Any thing after that I may need a little guidance with.

You can get close to 400WHP running 93 on a hybrid. If you plan to run Eblends you'll need at least a HPFP. Then you could easily run 400WHP with overhead if you stuck with that E30.
 

RecycledDonuts

Ready to race!
Location
Alabama
Nice Diggs. I am just looking to stay within safe limits. I do not want to reach a point as where I will need a built engine.
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

THEREALVRT

Drag Racing Champion
Location
The great white north
Car(s)
Golf R
Does anybody sell the AEM 5 bar with mounting equipment for MQB's other than APR?

edit: Didn't realize APR's boost tap was so cheap. Maybe i'll do what therealvrt recommended then. Thanks!

my bad. seems like the early versions had a 1/8 npt port on them. the new ones don’t but the aem sensor comes with a 1/8npt to 3/16 barb fitting.
so ill be teeing into the vacuum line of my apr tap and mounting the aem sensor near the intake and running a line from the tee to the barb fitting.
moose is having harnesses made as we speak.
 

wy2sl0

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ontario
I can also confirm UM has same issues as ED after speaking with some users. They didn't know it wasn't supposed to run that way.
Moral of the story, 4 bar is not a gasoline manifold sensor.
 
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