There is a post (which I am trying to find) that highlights a hub centric ring solution available from Tire rack explicitly for MK7. Might be worth a call to TR and make request for MK7 RThis gives me hope
There is a post (which I am trying to find) that highlights a hub centric ring solution available from Tire rack explicitly for MK7. Might be worth a call to TR and make request for MK7 RThis gives me hope
There is a post (which I am trying to find) that highlights a hub centric ring solution available from Tire rack explicitly for MK7. Might be worth a call to TR and make request for MK7 R
There is a post (which I am trying to find) that highlights a hub centric ring solution available from Tire rack explicitly for MK7. Might be worth a call to TR and make request for MK7 R
For a full explanation, with photos, see:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Wheels-Potential-Cause-and-Correction-Inside!
Neil
Did you get a road force balance? Did the dealer measure wheel and tire lateral run out? Did they check for an out of round condition? What exactly did they do?
First, a little background (although some of it has been posted before). A few months back I bought a set of Advanti HY Hybris wheels from Tire Rack which I noticed showed some degree of vibration above 75 MPH--nothing serious, but it ought not be there. Why have a car capable of pulling 155 if you can't drive it smoothly past 75?
I read around and found the thread on Vortex where Tire Rack did the right thing and fabricated a set of deeper hub-centric rings (to fit past the taper found on Mk7 wheel hubs) for one of their customers with a GTI. So I contacted Tire Rack about it; however, they were not willing to make the proper rings for my Advanti wheels, but rather sent me the shipping materials so that I could send back the wheels for a refund. Given that I'd just spent just over $150 to mount and balance the Advantis, and would have to spend the same amount to switch the tires back to the stock wheels, I decided to try and find a solution for the vibration myself.
I found a machine shop in Maryland who would CNC fabricate a set for me if I'd draw up a set of specs, which I did. However, simultaneously with this, my wife had a bad run in with a curb, cosmetically mangling my right rear wheel. Replacing it would only cost $70 more than a grind/refinish, so I did that* (keeping the abused wheel as a spare) and thought that since I had to change a wheel/tire anyhow, I'd try the sometimes effective careful cross torqueing of the wheels to the factory spec of 88 ft. lbs. (first to 50 ft. lbs. and then to 88 ft. lbs.) and see if that helped at all. For me at least, it helped a whole hell of a lot. Last weekend I briefly brought my R up to 120 MPH and it rode absolutely smoothly, outside of the normal feeling of bumps on the expressway. So I guess I don't have to return the wheels, nor buy some custom hub-centric rings. Knocks on wood.
I just thought I'd share that with you.
*No, I did not but the additional wheel from Tire Rack!
The tire shop just did their normal spin balance, at least as far as I know, and then they torqued the wheels down exactly as I requested--I watched. Low tech? Perhaps. But it seemed to work quite well. I've been going to this tire shop for 25 years and never had an issue with their work--I even know everyone by name there. I just wanted others to know that, at least for me, careful torqueing the wheels down seated them on the hubs the way they ought to be fitted. One thing I didn't say was that I still used the plastic hub-centric rings, which aided getting the wheel lugs on at first.
I have this problem too, but it DIDN'T happen on the stock wheels/tires. I put Enkei EKM3's on and wrapped em in Cooper Zeon RS3-A's. Car vibrates above 70mph. And the vibration is very noticeable. I too can see my seat shake. Also, the sound of my rear seats shaking drives me fucking crazy if my speakers aren't blasting
+1! Same problem here!
I fixed the problem in my car. I needed aluminium hub rings. The aftermarket wheels had a different bore than oem (72 instead of 57.1), and even tho they came with appropriately sized hubrings for the car, they were plastic and didnt really work. Also make sure your lug bolts are the correct type (ball vs cone seat). If it's neither of those things, you've either got (in order from most to least likely) an imbalanced wheel, a bent wheel, or a misshapen tire.