farcyde11gti
Ready to race!
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Installed.
Recommend you bribe someone with a lift or at least get someone to help. This is not a good solo installation but it is doable. I used jack stands and scrap V cut 2x4 pieces to help.
You will need 6,13, and 14mm sockets, probably an extension, and an 8mm box end if I recall correctly. You will need grease and probably a small pry bar to pop the hangars off, or you can drop the hangar bracket which is sometimes easier. Don't forget a little copper high temp rtv on the slip fit joints.
I opted for the black oval tips.
The build quality is good as are the welds.
The valve actuators are a bit tricky to install on the new exhaust from the old as you need to put just a bit of torque on the spring to seat it in the receiver yet align the motor body with the mounting studs. If I'm honest I could not tell much of a difference either stock or with Milltek when I would expect the valves to operate. Then again, generally taking it easy.
Fit is great but be warned the clearanced center resonator is close to the drive shaft with roughly .75" clearance vertical. It has not made contact yet so perhaps that is enough room. You will need to use the spacers to lower the center cross brace. I only had to make one minor adjustment front-to-rear to get the tips aligned with the rear valance.
The sound is only just louder than stock unless you are in the throttle pretty well and above perhaps 4k rpm. It has a deeper frequency tone, like a smooth baritone at idle. Will test further once I finish the break-in on the engine. No drone on the highway at various speeds and no annoying rattles or buzzes. As an aside, the stock exhaust is quite large in diameter but there are some areas that are flattened to achiever better ground clearance.
Kudos to Milltek for great packaging and to USP + Milltek for ridiculously fast shipping.
Recommend you bribe someone with a lift or at least get someone to help. This is not a good solo installation but it is doable. I used jack stands and scrap V cut 2x4 pieces to help.
You will need 6,13, and 14mm sockets, probably an extension, and an 8mm box end if I recall correctly. You will need grease and probably a small pry bar to pop the hangars off, or you can drop the hangar bracket which is sometimes easier. Don't forget a little copper high temp rtv on the slip fit joints.
I opted for the black oval tips.
The build quality is good as are the welds.
The valve actuators are a bit tricky to install on the new exhaust from the old as you need to put just a bit of torque on the spring to seat it in the receiver yet align the motor body with the mounting studs. If I'm honest I could not tell much of a difference either stock or with Milltek when I would expect the valves to operate. Then again, generally taking it easy.
Fit is great but be warned the clearanced center resonator is close to the drive shaft with roughly .75" clearance vertical. It has not made contact yet so perhaps that is enough room. You will need to use the spacers to lower the center cross brace. I only had to make one minor adjustment front-to-rear to get the tips aligned with the rear valance.
The sound is only just louder than stock unless you are in the throttle pretty well and above perhaps 4k rpm. It has a deeper frequency tone, like a smooth baritone at idle. Will test further once I finish the break-in on the engine. No drone on the highway at various speeds and no annoying rattles or buzzes. As an aside, the stock exhaust is quite large in diameter but there are some areas that are flattened to achiever better ground clearance.
Kudos to Milltek for great packaging and to USP + Milltek for ridiculously fast shipping.
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