Methanol Injection Installation - Engine Bay Option

Hi Folks,

Sorry for the late/short post (way too much work). I wanted to let everyone know that this is possible.

My Reasons and Requirements:
- Running meth is awesome … its like race gas, an intercooler and an air chiller all in one
- I didn’t want meth fumes in the cabin (OK for me, but not for my kids).
- I did not want to lose the functionality of lifting the hatch floor cover - got keep secrets down there
- I didn’t want to lose any trunk space
- I wanted the convenience of doing any maintenance or tuning without having to go under the car (tweak a knob on the pump or solenoid, change/check meth filter or inspect the lines)
- The JB1 integrates amazing well with it!

Based on the requirements above, I was set on installing everything in the engine bay.

Limitations:
- I didn’t want meth near any extra hot spots (near the turbo or downpipe)
- I didn’t want liquids to be near the electronics (driver side fuse box, battery and JB1)

Tank Location:
- There was no place for the 1 gallon cube tank that met all those requirements. It may have been possible to swap out the battery for a lightweight braille battery, but it would be too close to the electronics. We pulled off all the tire liners and under trays ... no open space.
- I ended up using the windshield wiper reservior as the meth tank. The rubber grommet that one of the pumps connects to is a perfect fit for the 1/4 meth line. No need to tap the bottle or make any adjustments since its the draw side (sucking in to the pump), it should never come out.
- I also used split loom coil to cover the meth lines so they are more “stealth”




Pump Location:
- It needed to be in a convenient location, in case you wanted to test it, adjust the flow rate or replace it. I ended up getting a VWR600 intake and guess what … that thing is so huge, it sits nicely in there and I don’t believe it affects air flow that much.
- I also installed the meth filter in the intake, so when I remove the cover I can check/service it. When its covered, its a very clean engine bay look.
- Ideally you would have the pump lower than then tank, but if there isn't much difference in elevation, you'll be fine.

Tucked Under the Filter


Filter pushed aside




Solenoid Location:
- I was going to put the solenoid in the airbox as well (and may move it later), but I wanted the ability to see the methflow and test it if needed, so it was supported outside the airbox.




Wiring:
- I used the key-on power from the fuse box … there is plenty of room to stick the FSB … like its almost designed for it.
- The wires to come out and it was wrapped before, but I accidentally pulled a wire too hard and needed to debug and make sure it was still connected. So it could be a bit cleaner than it is today.
- I did dremel part of the fuse box to have allow the wires to come out and for the fuse box to close properly.

FSB Sitting On Top


FSB Sitting in the Gap



Before Using The Wiring Loom (airbox open)



The Finished Product (airbox open)



The Finished Product (airbox closed)




Street Results:
- I’m able to set my Map3 Max Boost to 6.2 PSI while running 91 octane California crap (we add a bunch of hippie garbage in our winter and summer mixes)
- Logged dozens of 2nd-mid5th gear runs with no throttle closures (ignition timing issues) - it only dropped 2 inches on the reservoir.
- Since its a progressive spray and user configurable boost settings, it doesn’t drink a lot of meth … I’ve still got 80% of a tank full since most of my driving is city driving or stuck in commuter traffic.

Drag strips are closed for the winter … May try to hit a weekend test-n-tune if I have any free time.

Other WINS:
- The built in low windshield wiper fluid dashboard alert lets you know you’re running low
- FailSafeBoard (FSB) is integrated with the JB1 will cut your Map3 boost settings to Map1 if the meth flow is ever below your threshold
- Using a Solenoid will also taper your the boost that is added based on how much meth is flowing

Other Notes:
- Running 75% meth 25% water
- Map3 with 6.2PSI boost additive
- Will do more datalogging, but it looks like it could go higher
- Here's the kit ... http://burgertuning.com/meth.html

Thanks for reading!


##### Huge Props to ncampos976! #####

He did the installation, I watch and pointed at stuff. Before this install, he’d never done one before, but he was a VW certified technician working at a dealership for 8+ years! The quality of his work and attention to detail is top notch. His movements are cautious and deliberate. I never worried about a scratch or a ding. While I was OK with rough cuts, cable ties and twisties … he insisted on soldering almost every connection and the shrink wrapping each junction. He’s able to do this install in his sleep now.

He doesn’t seem to advertise his services (so I will), I would be comfortable with him doing at least the following:
intakes
downpipes
exhaust
pulleys
springs
coilovers
big brake kit
meth injection kit
piggyback installations
and other stuff I’m sure I’ve not listed.

I drove 90 minutes to get to him based on great feedback from other local VW owners. He did the install in 1/3 the time that other “tuner shops” were quoting me. He also charges a more than fair rate for his work.

If you’re close, please consider using him, for your own benefit!

have you dynoed the car ?

At 6.2 psi I'm guessing mid 300's to all the wheels.

The wiring looks great on the FSB, did he remove the fuse box to cut and solder into the key on power wire? The instructions I had from George just had it pinched in the positive side of the relay.

Can you share any other pictures of washer bottle tap? Super interested in it.

i removed the fuse box and soldered into the wire behind the the fuse box,

I forgot there is an even easier way to use the washer bottle, just punch a hole in the fill cap cover and feed the line to the bottom of the bottle.

Done!

Here's a datalog of my Map3-Boost5.0 ... can't find my 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8, 6.0 or 6.2 logs. Will redo them after the rain.

So this is the N54 kit, with which nozzle? Where did you end up mounting the nozzle? How far downstream of the TB?

@wy2sl0 - I'm using the CM5 nozzle and it seems to be enough. The nozzle is installed on a CTS Throttle pipe (meth bung comes already installed on it). Its midway on the throttle pipe, plenty of travel distance/time for atomization/evaporation before hitting the intake manifold.

Can you post a good picture on where you got your 12V power source from, i was told to use an add a fuse and tap into the third fuse down (15amp) from the top left of the fuse box

While I'm sure that the adrenaline rush of your car must be hugely addictive, have you given any thought to what would happen in a front end collision with a gallon methanol tank housed between the grill and your hot engine? If your children would be in the car when that happened, it might be the end of your gene line. Just sayin'.

Al_in_Philly said:

While I'm sure that the adrenaline rush of your car must be hugely addictive, have you given any thought to what would happen in a front end collision with a gallon methanol tank housed between the grill and your hot engine? If your children would be in the car when that happened, it might be the end of your gene line. Just sayin'.

Click to expand...

^^^^^

Washer fluid already contains methanol. It's made out of it, plus other chemical. There is no worry there...

That is a very awesome, clean install! Have been considering getting a kit for a while and having a R600 intake already I am totally tempted to get an R washer bottle and do it like that to retain my windhshield spraying ability... really cool!

Just to be clear, based upon your link, I would need the'full kit' at $339, and that would really be it minus meth of course, correct? Where are you spraying/what did you tap into? I was under the vise that the best way is via manfiold with a split 4/port setup


Thanks,
Adam

madelinot said:

^^^^^

Washer fluid already contains methanol. It's made out of it, plus other chemical. There is no worry there...

Click to expand...

The methanol (methyl alcohol) which is part of the washer mix is diluted to the point where it will never catch fire; the pure methanol which one adds to the gas mix, as the original poster has done, is quite volatile (volatile enough to be the required fuel at the Indy 500 until 2006) and will readily start on fire when exposed to high enough heat. If you've ever played with a radio controlled airplane, the fuel was methanol and the heat of a glow-plug was enough to maintain combustion. A gallon of methanol tossed on a hot engine in a front-end collision would initially vaporize turning the entire engine bay into a large combustion chamber, with the incredibly hot juncture of the exhaust manifold and the turbocharger likely acting as the source of combustion--if another hot surface hasn't already initiated a flame. After which, the gasoline in in the engine compartment would also likely add to the mix.

But go ahead, feel comfortable driving around with a certifiably combustible liquid behind your grill, thinking that it's just as safe as a gallon of windshield washer fluid.

You can also get cancer from eating cheeze-its.

Water has a far superior latent heat of vaporization than methyl alcohol, so if improved charge air cooling is the goal, you are not getting the maximum effect using a 75MA/25H20 ratio. You are actually injecting a fuel, whose energy density is inferior to gasoline and whose latent heat of vaporization is also inferior to pure water. You have picked the worst ratio you can for the best charge air cooling, and its a fairly poor fuel (which the engine doesn't need).

Im sure you see and experience some of the benefits of the added (albeit poor) charge air cooling and mild anti-detonation benefits of the 75/25 mix. Typical blue goo is 30MA/70H20, the MA is there simply as an anti-freeze, the blue dye for visual indication. Try using the off the shelf window fluid, I suspect your results will be the same, if not better than the current mix. You will also be able to continue to use your window washer and not fear immediate paint damage etc. Its also far cheaper.

You did not specify where the water jet is. The ideal place for a single jet location, if the goal is charge air cooling, is as far away from the intake valves as possible, directly after the IC outlet. If in cylinder detonation control is the only goal, a single jet can be placed closer. Multiple jets systems are really only needed when injected water volumes are rather massive (and equal distribution is hard to achieve), or there is a plumbing issue like the layout of the compressor and intake (an E55 comes to mind).