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Old 03-17-2017, 09:45 PM   #1
George Ab
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Drives: GTI MK7, BMW E90
Location: Pacific NW
Join Date: Nov 2014
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DIY: OEM Lighting Package (AFS Xenon) Retrofit

This is a do it yourself of a retrofit of Halogen to OEM Xenon with Adaptive Front-lighting System (AFS).

Warning: This is my experience and is for informational purposes. You are fully responsible for your own project, neither myself nor this website is responsible for what you do.

This is based on a North American Region (NAR) car. There are differences between the Rest of World (ROW) GTI’s. I will try to point out differences when I can, but you ROW folks may have do some additional research.

Why I’m Retrofitting: Back in 2014 when the MK7 GTI were hitting dealers you had to wait four months to order due to shortage of inventory with Lighting Package. I lacked the self-discipline to wait four months. For the last two years it was prohibitively expense to retrofit approximately $3,000 so aftermarket xenon was the way to go. However, prices have been coming down on OEM parts. I was able to procure all parts for $1,300. $300 over the initial cost of $1,000 for LP. I have been quite happy with my retrofit xenon; however, I wanted a smart lighting system that changes light direction based on speed, steering input, hills.

Parts:

Body Control Module: Determine if your Body Control Module (BCM) also known as Central Electronics Control Module supports AFS. There are varying grades of complexity of function in different BCMs. Using Vagcom to determine, my GTI SE has BCM part number has BCM 5Q0937087N. If you have an S with the lighting package you likely have this same part number. If you go into long coding and look at byte 2 you should see a choice of halogen or xenon. If that choice is not available, your BCM likely does not support. If you have an S you likely will have to replace the BCM. It is a $100 to $150 part used, but my understanding is to get re-keyed so you may have to take to dealer. I am not sure if this is only applicable to keyless entry, but I doubt it. You may have to do further research.

CAN Gateway Module: Determine if you have the proper CAN Gateway Module J533 to support AFS. This was a surprise to me. When I went to connect the AFS module to CAN bus I found that on my module pins 7 and 17 (CAN bus extended high/low connection 1) are missing. I connected to the diagnostic CAN Bus (pins 9 and 19) and although I was able to activate and program the AFS, lights do the shimmy up and down at start up and AFS module executes basic setting and acknowledge basic settings the AFS and cornering lights did not work and I had communication errors. The CAN Gateway Module in my 2015 SE is 5Q0907530S, but you need 5Q0907530AM (there are others, look at pictures and verify pins 7 and 17 are there) to support AFS. Check and order if you don’t’ have it is about $60 shipped used.

Headlights and modules:
Headlight for NAR market are 5GM941753A and 5GM941754A. I believe the NAR has the two yellow side markers. 8K0941597E xenon control unit, 2x 4G0907697 DRL Module, 2x Gas discharge lamp, D3S, 2x Bulb, H7 bulb, 2x 3D0941329 AFS control unit. I purchased my OEM headlights with all modules new for $990 shipped from GCP Tuning in Mexico. Last I checked they are $900 shipped on selling on eBay.

Rear Auto Level Sensor: 5Q0512521F or J. I purchased used off of eBay for $44 shipped. Third purchase was the charm; first purchase did not come with top plate, second never arrived. Make sure it comes with top plate. Some just come with mechanism and lower plate perfect if you broke sensor, but for retrofit you need both plates.

AFS Control Module: 7P6907357A I purchased used off of eBay for $80 shipped also from Poland.

MK7 AFS Wire Harness. I purchased from Aliexpress for $99 shipped. Decent quality and came with everything. Seen here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/VW-A...608.0.0.xg2oNg

This cable is for the Golf MK7 and needed a couple minor modifications. A wire from pin 10 to B10 and B24 for other side is part of harness. On GTI the existing wire in harness already has that connection. Since I did not use the cable adapter and moved the wired from my existing 10 pin connector to 14 pin connector I removed the wire going to b10 and b24 on other side. Shell for connector going into AFS module is incorrect (it will not fit onto AFS connector); likely for AFS that is not with cornering lights. I replaced connector and shell part number is: 7M3-972-726-B. Available from the usual sources for under $10. Much easier to transfer wires over to new connector now rather than under the dash later as I did. You could also make by procuring connectors, pins/sockets, tape, corrugated pipe and wire for I estimate around $35. This guy made his own cable has part numbers for connectors and pins and sockets. http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=848059

Note: Kufatec.de and carsystems.pl carry modules and harness.

Miscellaneous:

You can use bolts and nuts to mount AFS Control Module; however, OEM is screws and capnuts.
4 x Sensor Mounting Bolts - N10430104 or M5 bolts, washer and nuts. OEM uses riveted cap nuts.

2 x 10 amp fuses – Micro size.

Roll of Tesa Adhesive Cloth Tape to integrate wires into harness.

Tie wraps for securing cable.

Process Overview:

You may want to familiarize yourself with schematic and process.

Run cable from headlights through firewall.

Temporarily install Headlights

Connect xenon shutter wires to BCM.

Make VAGCOM changes and check that lights function. Button up headlights.

If necessary, replace CAN Gateway, recode and take to dealer to have component protection removed.

Connect to AFS Control module wires to CANBUS, power and ground, and headlight motors. Connect +12V supply to headlights. Securely mount AFS Control Module.

Mount level sensor

Run cable from sensor to AFS control module.

VAGCOM changes to introduce AFS to CANBUS.

Adjust Headlight.
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Last edited by George Ab; 04-26-2017 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:47 PM   #2
George Ab
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Drives: GTI MK7, BMW E90
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DIY: OEM Lighting Package (AFS Bi-xenon) Retrofit (Part 2)

Process:

WARNING: Disconnect battery so no bad things happen! Do this every time you are doing something electrical.

Run cable from headlights through firewall – I started by verifying the harness was manufactured correctly. Performed continuity test of cable connections and inspected pin/socket connections. It was properly manufactured, but there were two minor issues (use of b8 wire and AFS connector) addressed in parts.

You need to decide if you want the double connectors going from your existing 10 pin to 14 pin connector. It is a cleaner look to just have the one 14 pin connector which requires you to remove wires going to existing 10 pin connector of harness and moving to commensurate pins of 14 pin connector with the exception of pin 4 which moves to pin 12. Else, just use the existing harness 10 to 14 connector adapter. The 14 pin connector you move the inner magenta color connector back away from direction of arrow to release pins, then you can release if necessary with pin removal tool.

Lessons learned. Make sure everything works with existing adapter cable, before you change over connector and neatly route everything. I had a bulb problem on one headlight and had to remove the headlight to troubleshoot and replace bulb.

On passenger side, I ran the harness through the back of the windshield cowl with existing harness, across and down. Nice and neat, but you need to remove the windshield cowl.

To remove the windshield cowl, pull off rubber insulator on edge, remove the three clips, and then remove the passenger side section. Lift UP (not toward you). Note, when putting back windshield cowl remember to put in lip next to window and push down. Once in make sure to push it all the way down so you have a good seal. Remove the four nuts holding the firewall insulation, used needle nose and unscrewed, remove two 10mm nuts and remove the metal piece that goes over the two wire harness plastic bends. The harness plastic bends are easy to open.

On drivers side, I removed battery, air intake https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKc_J9FJHnM, ECU holder, and battery holder to access existing cable run.

Find the location of where you are going to go through the firewall see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_DoT6AGn8E Punch hole through rubber, lay harness run neatly up against existing harness and fish wire the wires (6) through firewall hole.

Install headlights – There are a bunch of headlight install videoes on Youtube. Below are a few. I normally do not remove fender, but I do tape around the area of the gap and place a microfiber cloth in the gap when performing work so as to not scratch the paint. Adjust so gap is even. Before tightening top bolts; if necessary, uniformly adjust the gap distribution using the banjo bolt and the impact screw just below banjo bolt. Then tighten final three bolts. A reminder to make sure lights work before installing everything permanently. I had a bad bulb and had to completely remove and reinstall lights as xenon bulb cannot be replaced without removing light.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obCW_15pDUU

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-c...pPZl9MR2c/edit

Connect xenon shutter wires to BCM. I removed the driver’s side instrument panel for the AFS module install so might as well do it now. You could work around, but it will be tight. Remove instrument panel side cover, pops straight out with a wedge. Remove footwell cover, couple screws and it comes towards you as it is held by guides. Remove storage box, down and straight back. The manual has you remove the center console. I did not do that. On the instrument panel there are four screws, but it was quite difficult to release the plastic from where it engages in plastic from the center console. After the four screws are removed it comes forward to remove the clip catches, then shimmy back and up where it engages the plastic of the center console.

I removed both BCM connectors C (to get better access to B), and B the middle connector. There is a release tab that needs to be pushed in order to pull down on the white lever which disengages the connector. Remove the B connector’s cable tie, release keep that holds connectors into shell and slide connectors out the back of shell. Insert appropriate shutter wires into slots 22 (right headlight) and 23 (left headlight) until metal keep on connector clicks into place. Put connector back in shell, tie wrap, and install back into BCM.

Make VAGCOM adaptation and coding changes and check that lights function. Check that the lights work. I had buttoned up everything, and found I had a bad bulb. At this point your basic light should work. You won’t have high beams or DRL without significant VAGCOM changes. You will need to make changes to adaptation setting for light (Leutche) channels 2, 3, (left and right parking light) 4, 5, (left and right DRL) 8, 9, left and right (high beam) 10, and 11 (left and right shutter to control high beam).

Don (DV52) our forum hero who has spent many an hour putting tutorials and information together for the benefit of the community put together a BCM comparison matrix of a number of over twenty MK7 GTI configuration. I took a column that had my car and one that had a NAR lighting package and did a comparison of the light channels 0 through 11 to determine what changes needed to be made. The file is located here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/me4v48fa8n..._8_6.xlsx?dl=0 Another source is Don’s Lighting Explanation found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/74b00lkimj...n_5_2.pdf?dl=0 Your configuration may be different, but for mine I had to make the following changes: For light channels 2 and 3 adaptation files 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 11, 12, 13, and 14 needed to be changed. For light channels 4 and 4 adaptation files 1, 2, 3, 6, 13, and 14 needed to be changed. For light channels 8 and 9 adaptation files 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 needed to be changed. For light channels 10 and 11 adaptation files 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 needed to be changed. My changes are below.

Coding Changes:

Byte 02 - 02 Lighting: Bi-xenon w/o light assist
Byte 06 - 20 Xenon - Shutter (PR-8IG/8IM/8IP) installed

Adaptations Changes:

Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lasttyp 10 from not active to 2 - Shutter: Diagnosesensierung für 'LED low'

Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lampendefektbitposition 10 from 0 to 37


Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion A 10 from not active to Left high beam

Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 10 from 0 to 1E

Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion B 10 from not active to Lichthupe generell

Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimmwert AB 10 from 0 to 127



Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lasttyp 11 from not active to 2 - Shutter: Diagnosesensierung für 'LED low'

Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lampendefektbitposition 11 from 0 to 41

Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 11 from 0 to 1F

Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion A 11 from not active to Right high beam

Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion B 11 from not active to Lichthupe generell

Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimmwert AB 11 from 0 to 127



Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lasttyp 2 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 4 - LED Tagfahrlichtmodul Signal

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lampendefektbitposition 2 from 0 to 48

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 2 from 45 to 4A

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion A 2 from Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht) to Daytime running lights

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion C 2 from not active to Blinken links aktiv (beide Phasen)

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimming Direction CD 2 from maximize to minimize

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion E 2 from not active to Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion F 2 from not active to Parklicht links (beidseitiges Parklicht aktiviert li & re)

Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimmwert EF 2 from 0 to 26



Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lasttyp 3 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 4 - LED Tagfahrlichtmodul Signal

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lampendefektbitposition 3 from 0 to 4C

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 3 from 46 to 4C

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion A 3 from Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht) to Daytime running lights

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion C 3 from not active to Blinken rechts aktiv (beide Phasen)

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimming Direction CD 3 from maximize to minimize

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion E 3 from not active to Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)

Lichtfunktion F 3 from not active to Parking light right

Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimmwert EF 3 from 0 to 26



Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lasttyp 4 from 9 - allgemeine Glühlampe 27W: auch H15 to 1 - LED Tagfahrlichtmodul Versorgung

Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lampendefektbitposition 4 from 48 to 3A

Leuchte4TFL LB4-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 4 from 43 to 49

Leuchte4TFL LB4-Dimmwert AB 4 from 100 to 127

Leuchte4TFL LB4-Lichtfunktion F 4 from not active to Parklicht links (beidseitiges Parklicht aktiviert li & re)

Leuchte4TFL LB4-Dimmwert EF 4 from 31 to 127



Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lasttyp 5 from 9 - allgemeine Glühlampe 27W: auch H15 to 1 - LED Tagfahrlichtmodul Versorgung

Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lampendefektbitposition 5 from 4C to 44

Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 5 from 44 to 4B

Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Dimmwert AB 5 from 100 to 127

ENG116555-Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Lichtfunktion F 5 from not active to Parking light right

Leuchte5 TFL RB32-Dimmwert EF 5 from 31 to 127





Leuchte8FL LB39-Lasttyp 8 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 36 - LED Kleinleistung

Leuchte8FL LB39-Lampendefektbitposition 8 from 37 to 35

Leuchte8FL LB39-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 8 from 1C to 26

Leuchte8FL LB39-Lichtfunktion A 8 from Left high beam to Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)

Leuchte8FL LB39-Lichtfunktion B 8 from Lichthupe generell to Parklicht links (beidseitiges Parklicht aktiviert li & re)

ENG116029-Leuchte8FL LB39-Dimmwert AB 8 from 100 to 127



Leuchte9FL RB2-Lasttyp 9 from 10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer to 36 - LED Kleinleistung

Leuchte9FL RB2-Lampendefektbitposition 9 from 41 to 3F

Leuchte9FL RB2-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 9 from 1D to 27

Leuchte9FL RB2-Lichtfunktion A 9 from Right high beam to Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)

Leuchte9FL RB2-Lichtfunktion B 9 from Lichthupe generell to Parking light right

Leuchte9FL RB2-Dimmwert AB 9 from 100 to 127

I also made coding changes to let car know I have xenon lights, byte 2 bi-xenon without light assist, and byte 6 bit 5-6 xenon shutter installed.

You now have properly functioning lights, but you do not have AFS.

Opinion: I definitely would not purchase the OEM lights if I was not interested in the AFS functionality. I would use Ed’s lights. Ed’s may not be as pretty when looked at from the engine bay, and are a little susceptible to vibration (tend to bounce more) and I prefer the softer edge of the light from the OEM. However, the LED blinker, double U DRL, cost and ease of install outweigh these minor quibbles. However, I am modifying for AFS as we want a smart light that changes position of light with pitch, steering and speed. Driving with AFS and cornering lights is pretty cool. I am easily amused, but I was absolutely giddy seeing the lights swing back to straight coming out of corner. In my opinion, having lights point where you are headed is vastly superior. Also, the cornering lights are quite useful. I will changing the bulb to something more white, a number of threads on this.
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Last edited by George Ab; 07-13-2017 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:47 PM   #3
George Ab
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Drives: GTI MK7, BMW E90
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DIY: OEM Lighting Package (AFS Bi-xenon) Retrofit (Part 3)

If necessary, replace CAN Gateway, recode and take to dealer to have component protection removed.

On my 2015 I had to replace the CAN Gateway. My 2015 SE uses 5Q0907530 S which does not have pins 7 and 17 which the schematic (CAN bus extended high/low connection 1) calls to be connected to the AFS module. I had to purchase CAN Gateway 5Q0907530AC to support AFS. Note: I did have difficulty with the AC variant of the CAN Gateway I purchased. I had to have assistance in resolving as it not for my VIN, it needed to have its parameters redefined which took a VAS5054 cable and assistance. If I would of had proper module this would not have been necessary.

NOTE: I tried workarounds of tying into diagnostic canbus (pins 9 and 19) and although I could get AFS recognition and programming, would do up/down shimmy shake at startup, and make pitch corrections, I could not get the yaw movement or cornering lights to work as I had communication errors. I had to replace CAN Gateway to resolve.

Make a map of your existing CAN Gateway controller. In VCDS, go into applications, controller map, choose 19 (for CAN Gateway), select adaptations, and CSV file, and go. This creates a record of your coding, and all adaptation channel settings. You will need to recode new CAN Gateway and make any adaptation changes so new controller matches your existing setup.

Remove connector, move release tab and pull (it can be stubborn), two tabs on both sides and CAN Gateway comes out.

Remove connector shell and install CAN Bus wires going into AFS into CAN Gateway connector pins 7 (CAN bus extended connection 1 low) and 17 (CAN bus extended connection 1 high) they will be going to AFS canbus pins 3 (CAN bus low) and 2 (CAN bus high) respectively.

Code your CAN Gateway. Take the Code that you have from your old module and put in new module with one change. Byte 11 bit 1 should be a 1 not a 0. I found this by comparing LP and non-LP cars. Currently there is not a description for this in the VAGCOM long coding; however, Ross-Tech is aware of the issue and may update in a revision. So byte 11 in Hex goes from 28 to 2A.

Coding:
0101000820085900EF0000281C0F0000000105000000000000 0000000000

0101000820085900EF00002A1C0F00000001050000000000000000000000


Move your adaptations channels. I took the log of the old adaptation file in Excel and cut and pasted the values of the new modules adaptation files next to the cell of the adaptation files. I then compared any values that were different, and changed to the old value. This is where your battery rating, manufacture and serial number are so those and a number of others will need to be changed. There were probably twenty changes that needed to be made.

When you turn on the car you will get a SAFE CP in dash and dash will pulse, your radio, ABS, airbags, and other modules will not work. If you purchased CAN Gateway from a junkyard, you need to have your dealer remove the Component Protection! Don (DV52) provided a good explanation here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14040 The J533 Data Bus Diagnostic Interface has component protection and you have to go to your dealer who will enable online with FAZIT. I had to schedule this out so I put my old module back in and put the new module back in right before I went to the dealer.

Connect AFS Control module wires to CAN Bus, (Replace CAN Gateway if part number does not support AFS) power and ground, headlight motors controller and +12V supply to headlights. Securely mount AFS Control Module – Now the fun.

Mount the AFS module. The AFS module is normally mounted up in the dash next to the CAN Gateway module. I decided to mount just to the right of the BCM as there is a place to wedge and I could secure with long cable tie. I mention so you can determine wire lengths as you are bringing everything together so you can use existing runs to make things nice and neat. Most of the below operations are not order dependent. You can mount AFS module in other places such as footwell as there is room.

If not done in previous step of replacing CAN Diagnostic Bus, install CAN Bus wires going into AFS into CAN Gateway connector pins 7 (CAN bus extended connection 1 low) and 17 (CAN bus extended connection 1 high) they will be going to AFS canbus pins 3 (CAN bus low) and 2 (CAN bus high) respectively.

The harness coming from the firewall has two sets of twisted pair (going to AFS slave modules on lights) and power. Tie one set of twisted pair into the other with the terminal pins making sure orange/grey and orange/black go to the same. Install the orange/grey wire to pin 4 and orange/brown wire to pin 5 of AFS connector.

Getting the +12V to headlights from SC36 and SC37. After two days on this I gave up and used two piggy back circuits (more on this below). Only one blade goes through fuse to output wire so make sure you insert properly. I used two spare mini slots, but could not use SC36 and SC37 due to size of piggyback so I used SC37 and an upper mini space.

Connecting to SC36 and SC37 properly (still in process) - This is as far as I got to properly bring power for SC36 and SC37 slots in fuse panel. If I ever get it completed it will be a DIY by itself. You need to move the magenta keeps on the fuse panel to add wires to the fuse panel. The fuse panel can only be removed by removing dash; however, you can release the two keeps on left side and lower right hand side and move the panel forward slightly. I put some wedges to give my as much room as possible, I was able to unlatch the lower keep and did the upper keep also (not sure if necessary), but still could not get terminal pin to engage from back. I believe the pins may be different for terminals that connect to connectors and the fuse box. I quit at this time, will research terminals and come back to; however, I need time to psychologically heal after this ordeal. MORE ON THIS AS I COMPLETE.

Getting the +12V to AFS module was tight. Tapped into black/violet wire coming for SC35 at back of fusebox, it goes to pin 23 of AFS connector.

I tapped into ground close to the TIUL footwell as there is a central ground connection there. Ground goes to pin 24 of AFS connector.

Slide connector into AFS connector shell, tie wrap harness to shell and connect to AFS module.

Mount level sensor – Remove driver side rear wheel. WARNING: Properly jack car as you will need to get under to mount sensor. Remove wheel housing liner with T25 torx. I mounted sensor with four M5 screws, washer and nuts. Sensor connector faces in towards vehicle and you will see four holes just aft of rear stabilizer. I found it easier to remove top plate and mount and then reattach sensor to top plate.

Run cable from sensor to AFS control module - Remove rear seat and interior paneling. I followed this example starting at around 2:17 to 4:46 for trim pieces removal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dKJ...ature=youtu.be I put a slice through grommet to get connector through. Attached connector to sensor and tie wrapped the wire. I put some caulk where I cut the grommet. Put it all back together.

VAGCOM changes to introduce AFS to CANBUS, Code AFS, Add Auto-leveling to Instruments - Use Vagcom to tell CANBUS module that AFS control module has been added. Select 19 CAN Gateway, then installation list and check the box next to 55 Xenon Range and execute.

Code AFS: Note when the AFS is properly coded it will automatically code the AFS slave modules on the lights. I attempted to use the long coding and check what was applicable; however, received errors. Finally used admap from Rosstech forum for 2016 GTI Autobahn: Coding: 021A01010B000400 Changed the bit from NAR to ROW so ended up with 021A01000B000400. Once coded it should look like this, which shows slave controllers at headlight have also been coded by master AFS module:

Address 55: Headlight Range (J745) Labels: 7P6-907-357.clb

Part No SW: 7P6 907 357 A HW: 7P6 907 357 A

Component: AFS-ECU H07 0080

Revision: -------- Serial number: --------------

Coding: 021A01000B000400

Shop #: WSC 01608 666 28888

ASAM Dataset: EV_HeadlRegulVWAFSMQB 001120

ROD: EV_HeadlRegulVWAFSMQB.rod

VCID: 3D5FCAA7ACB8CCA9C8-8068



Left Headlamp Power Output Stage:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5N0 941 329 HW: 5N0 941 329 Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB

Component: LeiMo links H01 0004

Coding: 2E0000



Right Headlamp Power Output Stage:

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5N0 941 329 HW: 5N0 941 329 Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB

Component: LeiMo rechts H01 0004

Coding: 2E0000

One more change to the Instrument Module 17. Change byte 4 bit 3 by checking autoleveling. In my case byte 4 went from 21 to 29. If you do not do this after adding AFS you will get a failure in instrument module of “incorrectly coded”.

Note: When AFS is working, AFS will appear in the Multi Function Display Light Assist menu. No coding is necessary.

Adjust Headlight: Using Vagcom, select module: headlamp range control, basic settings. Now manually adjust headlights or have done professionally. When complete, select Accept Basic Setting. This provides the AFS stored starting position.
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Last edited by George Ab; 03-31-2017 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:00 PM   #4
yosoydan
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Kudos for sharing this DIY. Always thought the retro fit would be cost prohibitive, but hearing that the costs of the parts have gone down, makes this something I may look into later on. For now, my Ed reps will be more than enough. But I am jealous of your LP
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:03 PM   #5
BlueHen
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God bless you, sir.
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2016 GTI S 6M PP LP - AWE DP+Touring, PSS 235s on RSe52s, euro R tails, Helix sound, 3M Crystalline, other isht
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Old 04-06-2017, 06:23 PM   #6
GolfWang
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I must admit I'm somewhat surprised you didn't go with OEM Golf R lights if you were gonna put this much effort into it. But good for you for trying.
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:33 PM   #7
ITGUY
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I can not seem to find them on GCP Tuning's website? Any other source for these at that price?
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Old 04-26-2017, 09:27 PM   #8
George Ab
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I can not seem to find them on GCP Tuning's website? Any other source for these at that price?
They are now $1,300 on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-MK7-...-/252897118355
Previously $900: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-MK7-...-/252740786656

you may consider dropping GCP an email at their website, they were not listed when I inquired. Rather then referencing their eBay listing, you might mentioning reading about someone who purchased directly for $1,000. When I purchased they were $1,100 on eBay, $1,000 direct, a couple weeks later they were $900 on eBay, and now $1,300 so they seem to be all over the place on price.

Last edited by George Ab; 04-26-2017 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:11 PM   #9
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Now I know for sure that I will NOT be doing this LOL.

Thanks for taking the time to put this together George, I'm however looking forward to your posting of a DIY on the infotainment. Thanks
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:58 PM   #10
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They are now $1,300 on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-MK7-...-/252897118355
Previously $900: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-MK7-...-/252740786656

you may consider dropping GCP an email at their website, they were not listed when I inquired. Rather then referencing their eBay listing, you might mentioning reading about someone who purchased directly for $1,000. When I purchased they were $1,100 on eBay, $1,000 direct, a couple weeks later they were $900 on eBay, and now $1,300 so they seem to be all over the place on price.
Thanks George, When my car was in the shop the dealer gave me a loner Touareg and I was amazed on how much better it was to have the AFS lights. Now I want them on my GTI lol
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:40 PM   #11
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Now I know for sure that I will NOT be doing this LOL.

Thanks for taking the time to put this together George, I'm however looking forward to your posting of a DIY on the infotainment. Thanks
MIB1 to MIB2 was so much easier of a DIY. I had it all working; however, the headunit went bluescreen after 10 minutes. Returned bad unit and it will be Wednesday before salvage unit arrives. I will PM you an advanced copy of the post, and will publish late next week.

Last edited by George Ab; 04-27-2017 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:57 PM   #12
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Thank you so much George. Excellent work


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Old 04-27-2017, 06:20 PM   #13
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holy cow... much respect...
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:15 AM   #14
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I am unburrying this magnificent thread.

To my understanding, the fog lights acts as cornering light in halogen equipped cars, why bother to have it working on the xenon units ? That's quite a significant cost added to the system.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:31 AM   #15
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I am unburrying this magnificent thread.

To my understanding, the fog lights acts as cornering light in halogen equipped cars, why bother to have it working on the xenon units ? That's quite a significant cost added to the system.


The Fogs are not used as cornering lights on the GTI at least, I think that it was something that you could do on the MK6.
I could be wrong but I have a 15 GTI with halogens from the factory and never saw the fogs activating for this purpose then again I got rid of the halogen headlights in a jiffy


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