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IS20 swap P00AF EPC Light limp mode

toledospeed

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
delsvr said:
Your comments have been extremely helpful here! Would you happen to know what the adaptation in VCDS is actually doing? Is it calibrating and adjusting the required upper/lower stops for the actuator rod?
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad to hear my comments were helpful. I believe this particular VCDS adaptation is simply checking the voltage (mV) reported by the WG actuator to confirm the gate/rod is in proper starting position, a narrow range, and then it saves this position/voltage so it can properly adapt from there at runtime. When the gate opens/closes, the voltage changes as its position changes. This is how the actuator can be modulated by its servo-motor at request of the ECU. In this case, the initial adjustment was off and the ECU could tell due to the voltage being reported. If the car were allowed to run without restraint, the WG position/range would not have been correct.

I believe there are other tests that will test the servo-motor and actuator voltage range (lower/upper stops etc.), but I haven’t tried any of them.

Hope this helps!
 
Gawernator

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
For any future readers:
P.S. depending on your downpipe design you may not need to remove it. Mine has enough flex in the flex joint to where you could simply unclamp it. However I did not even mess with that at all, I simply kept turning the rod 1/4-1/2 turn at a time until the diagnostic test would pass. In the future I would say the best way is to mark the threads with paint or something, I want to say I had about 1 1/2 actuator rod threads sticking out when I took it off my IS12. It makes sense now why APR's video is not correct, it's different for the IS38 for some reason. Also I used a 4" IRWIN needle nose type locking plier from under the car to twist the rod, because it was pretty tight. Once the rod is looser like it should be you can turn it with a small 4 or 4.5mm wrench or even by hand eventually. However anyone reading this shouldn't need to mess with it on the car....
 
sparky

sparky

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Norfolk
Hey Gawernator, whats the driveability like on the car now? Any super noticeable turbo lag or drop in mpg? I like the fact my Golf gets almost 40mpg, but if I could sacrifice a few mpg's for more power to merge on the interstate that would be great. I would also probably put a tune on it afterwards, but not sure if I would go JB4 or Unitronic/APR since I've got the 5 speed and would need a clutch either way.
 
2slowvw

2slowvw

Moderator
Location
VA
Car(s)
2022 Tesla Model 3
So last night and this morning i kept popping the P00AF code whenever i went into boost. I could go 5, 10, 15, 20 psi into boost but once i'm out of boost i get an epc and go into limp mode. I ran the VCDS actuator test and it passed. My question i guess is can it pass the test and still need to be adjusted more? I just haven't had time to get under the car yet to try and mess with the rod yet.

Additional notes: It has been working fine for a while but i suppose the locking nut could have came loose, i hope it is that anyway.
 
George Smooth

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
2slowvw said:
So last night and this morning i kept popping the P00AF code whenever i went into boost. I could go 5, 10, 15, 20 psi into boost but once i'm out of boost i get an epc and go into limp mode. I ran the VCDS actuator test and it passed. My question i guess is can it pass the test and still need to be adjusted more? I just haven't had time to get under the car yet to try and mess with the rod yet.

Additional notes: It has been working fine for a while but i suppose the locking nut could have came loose, i hope it is that anyway.
Click to expand...

Nut could be loose. We also see pretty often the downpipe clamp loosens and spins around blocking the actuator arm lever.
 
2slowvw

2slowvw

Moderator
Location
VA
Car(s)
2022 Tesla Model 3
George Smooth said:
Nut could be loose. We also see pretty often the downpipe clamp loosens and spins around blocking the actuator arm lever.
Click to expand...
It was 100 percent this. I went down to see if the nut was lose and low and behold the damn clamp was spun upside down sitting on the actuator arm. Thanks man
 
Trancebolt

Trancebolt

Ready to race!
Location
California
Happy Toledo and the rest of the guys came through with the info! Thx to mr smooth as well for the chime ins. Worth a million

Happy you're project is good now gawernator. I noticed your car was the small turbo and that your a bike racer so I always wondered when you were gonna start modding. Haha

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
W

williamwong

New member
Location
Singapore
2slowvw said:
If you follow the video it will be too tight. You will have to slowly back it off and keep retesting.
Click to expand...

I see that they can freely turn the actuator using just 2 fingers. Mine is tight and I need the help of a plier to turn it. Same for yours?

My workshop is proposing to remove the whole turbo and send it to the turbo shop to calibrate on a bench.
 
Diggs24

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
williamwong said:
I see that they can freely turn the actuator using just 2 fingers. Mine is tight and I need the help of a plier to turn it. Same for yours?

My workshop is proposing to remove the whole turbo and send it to the turbo shop to calibrate on a bench.
Click to expand...

That's normal. How would you calibrate on bench? It needs plugged into car. Keep backing it out until it passes. Unhook your downpipe. With the number of threads showing on my car you should almost be able to slip your pinky behind the wastegate flap with the car off. It's almost a half an inch gap if I recall correctly.
 
W

williamwong

New member
Location
Singapore
Diggs24 said:
That's normal. How would you calibrate on bench? It needs plugged into car. Keep backing it out until it passes. Unhook your downpipe. With the number of threads showing on my car you should almost be able to slip your pinky behind the wastegate flap with the car off. It's almost a half an inch gap if I recall correctly.
Click to expand...

So screw till I see 10 thread?
 
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