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Refreshing GTI exterior

smgti15

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Hi guys, so perhaps a dumb question, but back when I first bought my GTI I did nothing special to maintain the paint. I bought the car CPO, the paint seemed to look great, and from there on out I only washed it by hand and used some Adam's polishes and stuff like that after washing. No specific protecting products.

Now after going through my second Boston winter with the car I am looking to have the car refreshed. I would like to get the paint looking the best I can for a reasonable price, so that it is shiny, and protected moving forward. I'm willing to put the time in myself, but I have no tools or ability, or to pay a detailer is fine too. Any advice on the best thing to ask for to get the paint looking nice and protected for the future.
 

smgti15

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Hi guys, so perhaps a dumb question, but back when I first bought my GTI I did nothing special to maintain the paint. I bought the car CPO, the paint seemed to look great, and from there on out I only washed it by hand and used some Adam's polishes and stuff like that after washing. No specific protecting products.

Now after going through my second Boston winter with the car I am looking to have the car refreshed. I would like to get the paint looking the best I can for a reasonable price, so that it is shiny, and protected moving forward. I'm willing to put the time in myself, but I have no tools or ability, or to pay a detailer is fine too. Any advice on the best thing to ask for to get the paint looking nice and protected for the future.

Oh and if it makes any difference my car is Reflex Silver
 

sgessler2011

Ready to race!
Reflex Silver is a great color.

Steps
1: Wash
2: Iron-x- on Silver you will literally see iron red streaks everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-...F8&qid=1519726200&sr=8-13&keywords=iron+500ml

3.Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge- just as good as clay, but safer if used properly. Clay is great, if you drop it-you must dispose of it as it picks up sand and contaminants from the ground.

4.Menzerna Super Finish SF-3500 or similar. Depends on if surface has defects that need to be cut with something more aggressive.

4. Wax, seal or ceramic coat. Many choices here too.

If you don't have a dual action polisher, and other basic detailing materials as stated by snobrddan you should use a professional detailing service.
 

PouncingPanzer1

Go Kart Champion
A quality paint decon and polish would probably do what you needed.

I would decon the paint via clay bar/clay pad/clay mitt.

Next, perform a chemical decon with Iron-X or similar product, this will get around badges and in seams. It is critical you do this after the physical decon because Iron-X and some others will wreck havoc on your clay bars and pads. It causes them to break down and mar.

Then, using my white(light cut and finishing) Chemical Guys Hexlogic pad, Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish, and medium speed polish the paint. It's a medium cut polish that is great for 1 steps. So as long as their aren't many deep wounds.

I would then spend 30 minutes wiping down with CarPro Eraser and apply CarPro Reload and call it a day.

That's if I had your problem and had to use what I had on me :)
 

PouncingPanzer1

Go Kart Champion
Reflex Silver is a great color.

Steps
1: Wash
2: Iron-x- on Silver you will literally see iron red streaks everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-...F8&qid=1519726200&sr=8-13&keywords=iron+500ml

3.Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge- just as good as clay, but safer if used properly. Clay is great, if you drop it-you must dispose of it as it picks up sand and contaminants from the ground.

4.Menzerna Super Finish SF-3500 or similar. Depends on if surface has defects that need to be cut with something more aggressive.

4. Wax, seal or ceramic coat. Many choices here too.

If you don't have a dual action polisher, and other basic detailing materials as stated by snobrddan you should use a professional detailing service.
I'd switch your chemical and physical decontaminations around, could affect your nanoskin products.

I also find that if you're going to perform a physical decontamination regardless, why not do it first? It is certainly the more effective means of decontaminating the paint. Spray fallout removers, I find, serve a better purpose being used to reach areas clay can't. I.E. seams between panels, around window glass, and especially around badges.
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
Then, using my white(light cut and finishing) Chemical Guys Hexlogic pad, Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish, and medium speed polish the paint. It's a medium cut polish that is great for 1 steps.

Define "medium speed" (on a Porter Cable DA)

I'd switch your chemical and physical decontaminations around, could affect your nanoskin products.

I also find that if you're going to perform a physical decontamination regardless, why not do it first? It is certainly the more effective means of decontaminating the paint. Spray fallout removers, I find, serve a better purpose being used to reach areas clay can't. I.E. seams between panels, around window glass, and especially around badges.

So wash, clay, then IronX/wash again and jump to polishing?
 

sgessler2011

Ready to race!
I agree, wrong order. Nano skin and the active ingredients in many fallout removers do not play well together. IronX can really damage rubber. Do not let it dry, avoid it on rubber window trim, keep it out of sun as it dwells. Keep misting with water from a sprayer especially rubber areas the may have some ironx overspray on them.
 

smgti15

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Thanks everybody for the recommendations! This has been awesome
 

plastermaster

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Gualala
Some years back I had a detailer do extensive paint repair on my Ghia. Afterwards he applied a teflon treatment that he spent a few hours buffing with machine that created some heat through the friction of the buffing process. He explained to me that the coating treatments that the dealers charge a few hundred for do not have the extensive buffing needed. His price for the teflon treatment was the same as what I paid the dealer to do on my truck. The difference however was that on my truck it lasted a few months and on my Ghia, water was still beading up on it 2 year later when I sold it. Also I rarely needed to wash it. I only needed to dust it because nothing stuck to it other than bird poop. I will add though that I kept a car cover on it when not in use.
 

ILoveButter

Ready to race!
Location
Worshington
Since you are willing to put in the time get yourself a buffer. If you wanted you could get rid of the orange peel then buff it out and have a mirror finish. My car is white but I have paint spraying experience, so wet sanding and laying down clear thick as hell then wet sanding and buffing isn't a big deal. Just do a panel at a time and it will all get doje
 

chillax

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Wi
Car(s)
18 GTI SE plaid
As others have mentioned I would invest in a buffer/polisher. The PORTER 7424XP is dirt cheap for how much use you will get out of it. There are plenty of good videos on youtube on how to use it properly.
 
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