Gawernator
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Fremont, CA
So thorough
7
Quebster's Neverending Story - 2015 GTI S 6MT - The Good, the Bad, the End... and the Resurrection!
- Thread starter Quebster
- Start date
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Right... well also I'm lower than stock height. We, for the most part, adjusted them to where they were about where the endlinks that came with the ST XTA coilovers were, which are shorter than stock. I don't think we put much thought into it other than that, other than making sure the preload wasn't crazy. I need to research this topic myself...
I'm confused by the conclusion that shorter is the right adjustment to make after lowering the car -- conceptually I would expect the end links to need lengthening. My google searching corroborates this. Maybe the end link mounting bracket is significantly lower on the body of the shock as compared to the OEM shock.
Either way, if you peek under the car with the suspension loaded does the bar look level?
Either way, if you peek under the car with the suspension loaded does the bar look level?
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Well, the lower the car, the closer the mount on the shock is to the front sway bar. So if you stay stock length, you're putting more pre load on it. Right? (I'm kind of really thinking about this for the first time as well)
I'll have to check under the car when I can
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StealthGTI
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Newport News, VA
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI Sport
Very nice build! I put my bass control knob is nearly the same position:
Great minds think alike.
You have the subwoofer described in your top post. What are you using to power the sub and how did you connect it? Did I miss a description in this thread?
Take Care,
Scott
Great minds think alike.
You have the subwoofer described in your top post. What are you using to power the sub and how did you connect it? Did I miss a description in this thread?Take Care,
Scott
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Very nice build! I put my bass control knob is nearly the same position:
Great minds think alike.
Take Care,
Scott
Excellent, I love it! It's a perfect spot! No, I don't think I did any kind of write-up for the subwoofer or amp. Nothing special about it really. I got some power kit off of Amazon with a big 4 ga power cable, ran it from the battery down the left side of the car, under the trim of course, and back to my amp. I drilled a hole in the car under the seat, took the paint off around it, and ran the ground there.
Amp is: Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier
Sub is: Image Dynamics IDQ10 10" Sub
It works pretty well for me, between that, the upgraded door speakers, and Soundskins, I'm pretty happy. Plenty of room for improvement if you wanted to go ham with a DSP and amp for the door speakers and all that fun stuff.
Something is up with mine, though. I think it's the sub, my woofer goes in and out sometimes. I've watched the amp when it's done it, power stays on, but woofer will go out. I had some other used amp and replaced it thinking it was the amp, but I get the same problem. I'm not sure what the issue is.
Really enjoyed paging through the build! Quick question; how much do you feel the Savage brake ducts have helped on track? I imagine you were seeing some super high temps with the speeds you're hitting with the IS38+meth. I'm hoping to do the brake ducts in prep for next season for more peace of mind, and curious to hear your impressions using them with the PP brake package.
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
I'm glad you did! Yes, some serious heat is going through those brakes. After I refreshed my rotors with Stoptech's and got some Porterfield dedicated track pads, they got so hot that my caliper paint (which is aftermarket) charred and turned black in places. The pads also gave off some kind of white powder everywhere which Porterfield told me means they are way hot. This is with the brake ducting.
So.. I'm not sure how much good they did to be honest. I will say the installation is pretty easy and they can't hurt, but they would be much better if you got some 2" tubing and ran it directly up to the rotor, which I was thinking about doing.
I finally decided to just get some bigger brakes, the AP Racing 4 piston j-hook BBK, and I'm also waiting on a Clubsport bumper to come in from Germany, which I believe has some built-in brake ducting.
Anyway, hope that helps. I think it could be an effective kit with a 3" to 2" adapter with the 2" hose running from the tire well to the rotor. The supplied 3" hose is long enough to reach the rotor, but I couldn't find a good way to mount it without it hitting or rubbing on something because it's so big.
Interesting, and thanks!... The idea of a 3" > 2" reducer and more hose sounds like a great idea, if it's even possible to follow the control arm without any interference. From what I've seen in other platforms the key to really effective brake ducting is to get airflow to the center of the rotor. More air to the brake area in general should help a bit on it's own, so I'll pick that kit up myself and maybe take a whack at that.
Nice choice with the AP Racing BBK -- that would certainly be my top preference next to the Stoptech kits (ohh if only that in the budget ). The CS bumper should look mean. Enjoy!
Nice choice with the AP Racing BBK -- that would certainly be my top preference next to the Stoptech kits (ohh if only that in the budget
). The CS bumper should look mean. Enjoy!
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Hi all,
I hopefully will have some big updates this week, probably next week. Waiting for everything to get wrapped up, but will have lots of pretty pictures of the engine to put on here soon...
I hopefully will have some big updates this week, probably next week. Waiting for everything to get wrapped up, but will have lots of pretty pictures of the engine to put on here soon...
CLOUT
Ready to race!
- Location
- Southern CA
Can’t wait to see the Clubsport Bumper on!
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
I'm glad you did! Yes, some serious heat is going through those brakes. After I refreshed my rotors with Stoptech's and got some Porterfield dedicated track pads, they got so hot that my caliper paint (which is aftermarket) charred and turned black in places. The pads also gave off some kind of white powder everywhere which Porterfield told me means they are way hot. This is with the brake ducting.
So.. I'm not sure how much good they did to be honest. I will say the installation is pretty easy and they can't hurt, but they would be much better if you got some 2" tubing and ran it directly up to the rotor, which I was thinking about doing.
I finally decided to just get some bigger brakes, the AP Racing 4 piston j-hook BBK, and I'm also waiting on a Clubsport bumper to come in from Germany, which I believe has some built-in brake ducting.
Anyway, hope that helps. I think it could be an effective kit with a 3" to 2" adapter with the 2" hose running from the tire well to the rotor. The supplied 3" hose is long enough to reach the rotor, but I couldn't find a good way to mount it without it hitting or rubbing on something because it's so big.
AP Racing makes some of the best BBK on the market so that should help. Them or alcon are the two I would go with if I tracked my car like you. Should be a sick set up.
Hi all,
I hopefully will have some big updates this week, probably next week. Waiting for everything to get wrapped up, but will have lots of pretty pictures of the engine to put on here soon...
Where’s the big snail?
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Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Where’s the big snail?
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You mean this..? [emoji16]
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You mean this..? [emoji16]
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Exactly! Excited to hear how it drives. That break in period is going to be quite the test of your will power
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