The coldest it's been here so far was 26* F, according to my weather station. I admit it's not as cold as where you live, but I was in the real, near the Canadian border, upstate NY cold when it was -47* one Christmas. I spent all but 11 years in Philly. I wish I had a MK7 back then instead of needing to order freeze plug heaters in my cars.
7
Heater blowing cool
- Thread starter Golf457
- Start date
The coldest it's been here so far was 26* F, according to my weather station. I admit it's not as cold as where you live, but I was in the real, near the Canadian border, upstate NY cold when it was -47* one Christmas. I spent all but 11 years in Philly. I wish I had a MK7 back then instead of needing to order freeze plug heaters in my cars.
GolfMNE
Ready to race!
- Location
- Montenegro
Mine has the same symptoms, but on the opposite side. Is it a matrix inside the car or in front of radiator? What was the cost for parts, or is it in warranty?
cyclops
Ready to race!
- Location
- Back of nowhere
Me too.
It was warranty so can't say cost, sorry.
Matrix was behind the dash.
Sheikyurbouti
New member
- Location
- Molalla
15min to Start Blowing Warm Air From The Vents
My '15 GTI SE would come to operating temp in 6min. The cabin temp did not start to warm for 15min, and even then it would not blow hot - just warm. This sucked when it was freezing out since it took >10min to defrost with the car was sitting in the driveway.
I took it into the dealer and they found the expansion tank cap loose. They tightened it and sent me on my way. I was back 2 weeks later. This time they spoke with Tech Support and were advised to replace the "heat exchange control valve", the solenoid-controlled valve which directs coolant to the heater core. National Tech Support claimed they have seen sticky valves.
Once replaced, my car now blows warm air before the engine temp gauge begins to move, and will cook hot dogs once it comes to operating temp.
My '15 GTI SE would come to operating temp in 6min. The cabin temp did not start to warm for 15min, and even then it would not blow hot - just warm. This sucked when it was freezing out since it took >10min to defrost with the car was sitting in the driveway.
I took it into the dealer and they found the expansion tank cap loose. They tightened it and sent me on my way. I was back 2 weeks later. This time they spoke with Tech Support and were advised to replace the "heat exchange control valve", the solenoid-controlled valve which directs coolant to the heater core. National Tech Support claimed they have seen sticky valves.
Once replaced, my car now blows warm air before the engine temp gauge begins to move, and will cook hot dogs once it comes to operating temp.
branger
New member
- Location
- Maple Creek, sk , can
just wanted to update this thread, took car to the dealership as they had a 50$ diagnostics special on , result was thermostat stuck open , 510 for thermostat body, 180 for new water pump , 5 hrs labor totaling 600, and change totaling a 15% discount off for high mileage to the tune of 1750 . just to have heat on warm up , wowzers , I ordered the part from ecstuning for 450 and am planning on doing the work myself , this is truly a terrible design , whats everyones thoughts , should I trade it in at another dealership and let them deal with their own problems?
Golf457
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Guilford, UK
Wow that's crazy. I got hold of a manual for my engine CLH A and it shows a simple thermostat, none of this expensive body stuff. I suppose there are lots a engine variants.
baldybouncer
Newbie
- Location
- Wrexham
My 2013 car with 101,000 was traded in a few weeks back but it had this exact issue.
Does anyone know if VW has sorted the issue out as my 2016 car has this same bag in the header tank - do I remove it before it causes the issue?
Would be good to find out what VW are doing about the inherent fault
Does anyone know if VW has sorted the issue out as my 2016 car has this same bag in the header tank - do I remove it before it causes the issue?
Would be good to find out what VW are doing about the inherent fault
_dvorak
Ready to race!
- Location
- Long Island
Heater in my car was blowing cold air the other day on my way to work. On my way home the heater was working fine. Same thing happened yesterday. No heat driving to the store - leaving from the store, heater is working fine. Going to bring it in to the dealer so they can take a look.
Golf457
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Guilford, UK
The question is why did the bag split? We don't know if they split because of age or if they have been physically damaged.
I actually don't believe VW when they blamed the bag. My car still doesn't heat properly occasionally so it can't be a blocked heater core.
Last week I found I could fix the cool temperature simply by turning the engine off and on again. Then it immediately blows hot!
I also found on two occasions that it doesn't get hot if I drive the engine hard in the first 5 minutes from cold. But turn it off and on again and it's fixed.
More likely a dodgy valve I'd say.
Well, my wife's family is from where it goes down to 37 below, so I think I know what cold is. I don't hear people up there who own Golfs crying. Confuses the heating system? I don't even know how to answer that.
Ian83
New member
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- 2015 Golf SE
I posted this on the Vortex forums, but from my experience and hearing success from a few others, here is my advice (original quote included)
Problem resolved! It was the coolant control valve which is located (buried!) on the crankshaft/clutch end of the engine block (driver side). On the 1.8 TSI motor, it is hidden behind a hard turbo pipe. Access is difficult but not impossible. My mechanic tested by removing the valve and simply joining the two rubber hoses. Heat! Almost immediately. The valve is not cheap, about $US 150, but it has resolved the problem. I think the old valve was "stuck", but would start to move after hot coolant on the engine side hose warmed it for more than 10 minutes. But that's way too long for the winter season coming. VW part # for that valve is 4h0 121 671d
[/QUOTE]
Just wanted to make sure I came on here and backed up this solution. THIS ALL WORKED on my 2015 Golf SE! Sure enough it was the coolant control valve. I bought this exact part, VW quoted me at different locations for $500-$650 in labor charges to replace this part. Talk about absolute garbage - first of all, this part should be covered - 2015's clearly have a known issue and they don't want to admit it. VW charged me the stupid $99 diagnostic test and suggested a solution that probably wouldn't work which was the coolant flush, yet another $100 for that and then the overall solution which was replace the entire heater core. What a joke! I'm calling VW to dispute this ineptitude. I'm not kidding - you'll find more solid answers and beneficial/accurate information here than from most VW mechanics. It's unreal how many times they try to rip you off at dealerships for problems with very simple solutions.
Long story short - my local mechanic has a son-in-law who worked at VW for 16 years and now works at Audi, but he moonlights a bit during evenings using the local garage space for side jobs. He quoted me $190 for the labor costs, said it was actually super simple and easy, and I tipped him $20 just for getting it in early. Part VW # 4h0 121 671d for that valve absolutely did the trick - I have totally operable heat, comes in in minutes like it should in freezing temps.
**** for context - my morning commute is one of the most consistent things in my life. Last April, suddenly during a super cold morning in PA, my front windshield was iced over lightly and all that was blowing was cold air for 15-20 minutes. I drive about 45-50 mph max during that time on regular roads. At about 20 min, I get on a turnpike which allows me to go 80 mph. This builds the temp and pressure in my car to the point where lukewarm air was blowing and finally cleared my window. A few times I tried turning the car on and off and that seemed to work for a while until it didn't anymore. Then once I got off the turnpike, oddly enough, the heat come on blazingly hot. This came at about 45 min into my commute - obviously NOT helpful. On the way home, I usually got heat faster since I got on the turnpike much quicker, but this got old quick. Fast forward to this fall when I finally started needing it again, I tried to find a solution via VW as stated above. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO SEARCH THESE FORUMS before ever going through with a repair - it will save you hundreds, if not thousands, once your car is past warranty. And that's no thanks to Volkswagen and their stingy warranty for this model - 2015's had the most useless 3 year warranty. Everyone knows most major problems don't spring up in that time.
I just wanted to thank everyone here in this awesome community that made it possible for me to solve my issue by standing on the backs of your experience and knowledge. Could not have done it without these forums and again, I just wanted to thank everyone who chimed in with the part #s and outcomes. That experience, trial and error and money spent helped us all and I really wanted to express my gratitude. Kind of unreal that we have to come on here to figure it out for ourselves instead of talking to the "should be" experts at any VW dealership.
Problem resolved! It was the coolant control valve which is located (buried!) on the crankshaft/clutch end of the engine block (driver side). On the 1.8 TSI motor, it is hidden behind a hard turbo pipe. Access is difficult but not impossible. My mechanic tested by removing the valve and simply joining the two rubber hoses. Heat! Almost immediately. The valve is not cheap, about $US 150, but it has resolved the problem. I think the old valve was "stuck", but would start to move after hot coolant on the engine side hose warmed it for more than 10 minutes. But that's way too long for the winter season coming. VW part # for that valve is 4h0 121 671d
[/QUOTE]
Just wanted to make sure I came on here and backed up this solution. THIS ALL WORKED on my 2015 Golf SE! Sure enough it was the coolant control valve. I bought this exact part, VW quoted me at different locations for $500-$650 in labor charges to replace this part. Talk about absolute garbage - first of all, this part should be covered - 2015's clearly have a known issue and they don't want to admit it. VW charged me the stupid $99 diagnostic test and suggested a solution that probably wouldn't work which was the coolant flush, yet another $100 for that and then the overall solution which was replace the entire heater core. What a joke! I'm calling VW to dispute this ineptitude. I'm not kidding - you'll find more solid answers and beneficial/accurate information here than from most VW mechanics. It's unreal how many times they try to rip you off at dealerships for problems with very simple solutions.
Long story short - my local mechanic has a son-in-law who worked at VW for 16 years and now works at Audi, but he moonlights a bit during evenings using the local garage space for side jobs. He quoted me $190 for the labor costs, said it was actually super simple and easy, and I tipped him $20 just for getting it in early. Part VW # 4h0 121 671d for that valve absolutely did the trick - I have totally operable heat, comes in in minutes like it should in freezing temps.
**** for context - my morning commute is one of the most consistent things in my life. Last April, suddenly during a super cold morning in PA, my front windshield was iced over lightly and all that was blowing was cold air for 15-20 minutes. I drive about 45-50 mph max during that time on regular roads. At about 20 min, I get on a turnpike which allows me to go 80 mph. This builds the temp and pressure in my car to the point where lukewarm air was blowing and finally cleared my window. A few times I tried turning the car on and off and that seemed to work for a while until it didn't anymore. Then once I got off the turnpike, oddly enough, the heat come on blazingly hot. This came at about 45 min into my commute - obviously NOT helpful. On the way home, I usually got heat faster since I got on the turnpike much quicker, but this got old quick. Fast forward to this fall when I finally started needing it again, I tried to find a solution via VW as stated above. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO SEARCH THESE FORUMS before ever going through with a repair - it will save you hundreds, if not thousands, once your car is past warranty. And that's no thanks to Volkswagen and their stingy warranty for this model - 2015's had the most useless 3 year warranty. Everyone knows most major problems don't spring up in that time.
I just wanted to thank everyone here in this awesome community that made it possible for me to solve my issue by standing on the backs of your experience and knowledge. Could not have done it without these forums and again, I just wanted to thank everyone who chimed in with the part #s and outcomes. That experience, trial and error and money spent helped us all and I really wanted to express my gratitude. Kind of unreal that we have to come on here to figure it out for ourselves instead of talking to the "should be" experts at any VW dealership.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK5 Best GTI
^thanks for backing that up; took me a lot of searching to find the same result but i am in dire need of the same valve; ~15 minutes to get warm air in my R, meanwhile wife's 2019 2.0T tiguan is toasty in like 5 minutes.
EDIT: The one thing i cant find on this is any sort of DIY or even where exactly the solenoid is located - yes, drivers side, above the trans, fair enough i hope i can find it. That said, can anyone confirm if a flush is needed after, if for no other reason than to burp/bleed the system? Or will it sort itself out? Any pointers? Thanks.
EDIT: The one thing i cant find on this is any sort of DIY or even where exactly the solenoid is located - yes, drivers side, above the trans, fair enough i hope i can find it. That said, can anyone confirm if a flush is needed after, if for no other reason than to burp/bleed the system? Or will it sort itself out? Any pointers? Thanks.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK5 Best GTI
Welp
I order the part and went at her trying to replace last night. It was not a rousing success; I gave up in the interest of time and temperatures, but here are some notes so far:
MOST INTERESTINGLY, I did NOT plug the harness back into the unit (silly me), and seem to now be getting heat in the cabin just a few minutes after startup. Problem solved...? Can i just let it chooch like this? Lol. I'm guessing not, but also...
At any rate. The valve is mounted on the drivers side of the cylinder head, directly behind the turbo outlet pipe. At minimum you need to:
* Remove battery and battery tray
* Undo the hose at the turbo muffler (which gave me the perfect opportunity to swap in my turbo muffler delete pipe)
* Which means undoing a T30 bolt which is midway on the turbo outlet pipe against the cylinder head
Here's the piece upclose
Heres a better look at what the pump looks like
What i was not expecting was where the actual piece was located; there was no information about it anywhere i could find.
As such, really, i was put in a position quick where i think i would need to actually remove the whole turbo outlet pipe to have more adequate access to the hose clamps, then to be able to actually pull the hoses from the piece. And to remove the turbo outlet pipe means at minimum, jacking up the car and i think there is another T30 or two holding it in place but tucked behind like 5 other coolant hoses lol.
The clamps holding on the piece are STIFF. Def want hose clamp tools to do this.
Also, finally, i wasn't even positive if, when i actually removed the hoses, would there be nonstop coolant spilling out everywhere, or could i just angle to hoses up, maybe soft-plug them and be good?
And, upon completion, would i need to burb the coolant system, or would it resolve itself?
Too many variables for my mammalian brain, probably gonna take it to a mechanic buddy. Lol
I order the part and went at her trying to replace last night. It was not a rousing success; I gave up in the interest of time and temperatures, but here are some notes so far:
MOST INTERESTINGLY, I did NOT plug the harness back into the unit (silly me), and seem to now be getting heat in the cabin just a few minutes after startup. Problem solved...? Can i just let it chooch like this? Lol. I'm guessing not, but also...
At any rate. The valve is mounted on the drivers side of the cylinder head, directly behind the turbo outlet pipe. At minimum you need to:
* Remove battery and battery tray
* Undo the hose at the turbo muffler (which gave me the perfect opportunity to swap in my turbo muffler delete pipe)
* Which means undoing a T30 bolt which is midway on the turbo outlet pipe against the cylinder head
Here's the piece upclose
Heres a better look at what the pump looks like
What i was not expecting was where the actual piece was located; there was no information about it anywhere i could find.
As such, really, i was put in a position quick where i think i would need to actually remove the whole turbo outlet pipe to have more adequate access to the hose clamps, then to be able to actually pull the hoses from the piece. And to remove the turbo outlet pipe means at minimum, jacking up the car and i think there is another T30 or two holding it in place but tucked behind like 5 other coolant hoses lol.
The clamps holding on the piece are STIFF. Def want hose clamp tools to do this.
Also, finally, i wasn't even positive if, when i actually removed the hoses, would there be nonstop coolant spilling out everywhere, or could i just angle to hoses up, maybe soft-plug them and be good?
And, upon completion, would i need to burb the coolant system, or would it resolve itself?
Too many variables for my mammalian brain, probably gonna take it to a mechanic buddy. Lol
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI