GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

EPC Light - no boost - no fault stored

tlassy

New member
Location
MA
Interesting...? Can they not just replace the WG or is it somehow part of turbo unit? Have to look again. I was going to say put the stock intake box back on. I have run a piggyback for well over 10k miles and never got a EPC fault code.

Yeah not sure, I didn't really ask much more about it, it was just a quick phone call. I'll ask more about it when I pick the car up in a few days. I've been running the jb1/jb4 for about 13k and hadn't had any problems until this.
 

Oldschoolmk7

Go Kart Champion
Location
Yonder
Yeah not sure, I didn't really ask much more about it, it was just a quick phone call. I'll ask more about it when I pick the car up in a few days. I've been running the jb1/jb4 for about 13k and hadn't had any problems until this.

How long on the CTS intake 13k? Reason I asked there was previous owner with jb1 and same/similiar intake getting EPC codes and he traded car at 30k miles for wrx. He could never sort it out...

Is dealer ok with aftermarket intake and warranty??
 

tlassy

New member
Location
MA
How long on the CTS intake 13k? Reason I asked there was previous owner with jb1 and same/similiar intake getting EPC codes and he traded car at 30k miles for wrx. He could never sort it out...

Is dealer ok with aftermarket intake and warranty??

I have had the CTS for on for a little longer maybe 17k. I remember reading gn4rwhals threads (like I said long time lurker) and I haven't had the same rough idle issues and such as he described.

I did put the stock air box back on before this dealer trip, I didn't want to chance it. I have left it on when I did the 10k service and suction pump recall and they didn't say anything about it.
 

Oldschoolmk7

Go Kart Champion
Location
Yonder
Yeah that was the guy. I don't think he used the most updated coil packs at the time. Good luck.
 

hardR

New member
Hey everyone, long time reader, but this is my first time actually posting on here. I had the same issue tonight. I am running a JB4 with a APR intake and DP. I just switched back to map 0 from map 1 due to a cross country trip (FL to CA) and the fact that my clutch is starting to slip. I wanted to see if my clutch would still be able to hold stock power. I was in 4th gear and hit the gas hard my EPC light came on and I lost all power. The boost gauge in the head unit read 0 along with my laptop since I had it plugged in to change back to map 0. I turned the car off and tried to see if there was a code and had nothing other than the exhaust code(P0420) which has been there since I installed my DP. I turned the car back on and everything seems normal. Also the EPC light went off after I started back up. Just wanted to see if there is a way to be able to check if the waste gate is actually stuck open. Visually looking into the engine bay all of the hoses look normal.
 

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
Hey everyone, long time reader, but this is my first time actually posting on here. I had the same issue tonight. I am running a JB4 with a APR intake and DP. I just switched back to map 0 from map 1 due to a cross country trip (FL to CA) and the fact that my clutch is starting to slip. I wanted to see if my clutch would still be able to hold stock power. I was in 4th gear and hit the gas hard my EPC light came on and I lost all power. The boost gauge in the head unit read 0 along with my laptop since I had it plugged in to change back to map 0. I turned the car off and tried to see if there was a code and had nothing other than the exhaust code(P0420) which has been there since I installed my DP. I turned the car back on and everything seems normal. Also the EPC light went off after I started back up. Just wanted to see if there is a way to be able to check if the waste gate is actually stuck open. Visually looking into the engine bay all of the hoses look normal.

If you have VAG COM you can run the wastegate test.
 

delsvr

New member
Location
NJ, USA
If you have VAG COM you can run the wastegate test.

Working on this problem as well. Does anyone know how the test actually works? And I believe there are at least two settings here: a test for the actuator as well as an adaptation ("first adaptation of charge pressure actuator"); how is this calibration done? Seems entirely automatic?

hardR said:
How much does it cost to get a VAG COM or VCDS reader. They are both the same thing, correct?

It's about $200 for the most basic reader (limited to 3 vins) and yes, that includes software.
 

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
I will look into that tomorrow. Just need to find one near me. How much does it cost to get a VAG COM or VCDS reader. They are both the same thing, correct?

I can almost guarantee someone here on the forum or on reddit /r/volkswagen is near you and would let you borrow their cable, or at least pay to rent it if you don't want to buy. Judging from your FL location. https://www.reddit.com/r/Volkswagen/wiki/vcds
 

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
Working on this problem as well. Does anyone know how the test actually works? And I believe there are at least two settings here: a test for the actuator as well as an adaptation ("first adaptation of charge pressure actuator"); how is this calibration done? Seems entirely automatic?



It's about $200 for the most basic reader (limited to 3 vins) and yes, that includes software.

The first adaptation is for what you run when installing a new turbo. I did that and cleared my permanent EPC fault after adjusting the rod. OP seems to have a different issue.
 

SRoads

Ready to race!
Location
WV
Hi All,

Long time reader and finally had an issue I need opinions on. I read a bunch of other EPC threads and they didn't really seem to apply.

I have been having the EPC light come on anytime I drive, it cuts all boost, as noticed by my P3. it happens at any throttle/load input and in any gear at around 3000 rpm (ex. 1st gear pulling out of my driveway). It won't build any boost. It drives normal otherwise, I don't have speed restrictions nor does it seem to limit RPMs, it just cuts all boost.

I do have a CTS intake and a JB4 on map 2, both have been installed for over a year with no problems, I did pull the JB4 off and the EPC light still comes on.

The strange part is that when I go to pull the code it doesn't show any, thinking it was the torque pro app not working properly, I pulled the MAP sensor plug and the MAP sensor code popped up. If I clear codes, the light goes away, but will then come back on immediately boost tries build.

I have had the same behavior running a downpipe without software at high loads/high elevations (7000MSL+). Once I put stage 2 software on the car the issue went away.
 

tlassy

New member
Location
MA
Don't think I ever updated this in full, but it the issue was the wastegate actuator.

paperwork indicated the tech ran an adaption and attempted to reset the actuator but ultimately that didn't solve the issue so they replaced the entire turbo. I assume the actuator is integral otherwise they wouldn't have replaced the turbo.

The dealer did a great job with the turbo replacement and the car has been running great.
 

Gawernator

Go Kart Champion
Location
Fremont, CA
The wastegate actuator is a separate part because it unbolts ... dealer just didn’t want to mess with it easier to order a whole good assembly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top