Installing Amp and Subwoofer

So I had a couple questions which I couldn't quite find through my searching of the forums (Which I'm new at so I may have missed it) but I'm looking for at the moment installing my Amp and Subwoofer from my old car into my new golf.

What I have will be (In the line) A 1 Farid cap (Rockford) then a P1000.2 (Rockford) to a P3 15" Sub (Rockford).

I know I will need to be tapping into the rear speaker wires, I was looking at the AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter (Link) to do this. I have seen that this fixes the bass roll off at high volumes but was curious if anyone had any experience with this. Also if there is another option to fix the roll off? I read something about coding for the EQ settings or something.

Second sorta question is that putting a 1000+ watt amp on the car battery, will this throw any codes or would possibly upgrading the battery be smart?

Also on this...Warranty obvis if I fuck something up in the process or is connected to what I do, its on me but does anyone know if they open the hood and see a power wire running from the battery or a diff battery will they just not do anything with it?

I have a 1k and a 110x6 and have had no problems with the battery.

Did you ever do the install would be nice feed back i cant find anyone putting real bass in their car,everyone wants the helix/or other whatever setup..

There's lots of people who have done this, including multiple threads. Here's the biggest ones.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6977&highlight=amplifier

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38180

In a non fender setup, i tapped the front speakers and did not find any roll off using a dmm or scope.

Adurm said:

In a non fender setup, i tapped the front speakers and did not find any roll off using a dmm or scope.

Click to expand...

Which MIB unit?!

I have an MIB1 (no Fender/Dynaudio/Helix or anything) going into a 5-channel amp that takes speaker level inputs and the output is all over the place.. and changes at different volume levels too. I'm torn between something like a Fix-86 to try and flatten it and just replacing it with the Alpine unit at the moment.

I'm running a Alpine mono-500 amp to a 10" JLW6. My car has Fender audio, so tapped into the sub-wire with the LC2i.

Capacitors (in my opinion) are not at all required. Check out this link:https://axleaddict.com/cars/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

It took a while to get mine dialed in, but I'm loving it. I wired a remote bass knob right by my seat so I can adjust gain on the fly. My wife and kids don't like to feel bass, so I adjust it down like a volume knob.

Im with an mib2 non nav. I only tapped the front outputs from behind the glove box. My rear speakers are not amplified. Maybe you grabbed the wrong wires or crossed them somewhere. They are layed out a little strange back there. I'd start there. My output is pretty linear to about 5 clicks from max.

Granted i do have mine going into an audison bit ten. Im going to re level it tomorrow so I'll run some 0db test tones and meter each tone every click of volume to be sure. Now I'm doubting myself.

Interesting results thus far with the multi meter. 20hz caps out at like 5.2v while 50, 100, 400, 1k, 4k and 8k get to the mid 8v range. Everything seems to max around 24/30. None of those frequencies clip at any level. I'll have to make a spreadsheet and post it up. Im sure it will be useful for others. Bear in mind this is just the front output im testing and using very cheap equipment.

Still trying to figure out how to make a graph with excel. I wish i had test tones higher than 8k. Im still surprised to get 8.8v at max level and no clipping. Couldn't see distortion on the scope either.