GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

MK7 Golf R Track Use: What's needed to be "track ready"?

Location
St. Olaf
Don't want to sound rude, but would I suggest fitting TT air guides if there already
are some on the control arms? And no, sadly there's no "ready to fit duct directing
air into the disc's bell", at least not to my knowledge.
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
Don't want to sound rude, but would I suggest fitting TT air guides if there already
are some on the control arms? And no, sadly there's no "ready to fit duct directing
air into the disc's bell", at least not to my knowledge.

Not rude at all. And to clarify, do the TT air duct guides require a control arm change from the stock Golf R control arms or is it bolt on? That didn't seem clear in the post since the guy making the post owned an earlier model.
 

Giulio24

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Los Angeles
I own a 2016 Golf R 6MT with DCC. I "only" have an APR stage 1 tune on it but I tracked it six times so far with everything stock except for the tune and it has been doing great so far. I take it to a shop for an inspection before each track day and the mechanics are always surprised by how everything is holding up perfectly.

The only thing I would recommend is to get rid of the all-whether P-Zeros and get some sticky tires. Yesterday I used the Pilot Sport Cup 2 for the first time on a racetrack and they really made a difference :)
 
Last edited:

Frackz

New member
Location
Toronto
Just as the title states, I'm a new Golf R owner looking to run some sessions on the track but I want to make sure I have everything I need to ensure it remains reliable. Also, track use (to me) is circuit tracks, not drag racing.

Currently I'm at APR Stage 2 (including the intercooler) so I should have the ability to keep IATs down a bit.

What else is recommended for Golf Rs that will be used on the track? I'm seeing people say there's a tendancy for oil to pool in the cylinder head and a new catch can/oil return system is needed to keep it from blowing the oil into the intake tract. Looks like a $700 kit. Necessary or no? Also, standard oil and brake fluid ok? Additionally, I know the aftermarket dogbone inserts are intended to keep the engine from pivoting under hard acceleration and braking. How important is that upgrade before track use?

Hey friend,

I autocross and track the golf R. last year was my first season with the car.

Power mods:

JB1 - Map 6

For track prep
Motul RBF 600
Carbotech xp12 pads in front
18"vmr 810's running RE71R
Oil Change before the event

And that's it i did 20-30 minute sessions then a cool down period.

I had no issues what so ever and the breaks held up great for the track that i goto. Candian Tire Mosport DDT.

You do not need to crazy into prep.

For this coming spring.

I have added:
super pro rear sway
 

replicate

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Downunder
Good advice in this thread. I tracked my GTI last year in a full season of Supersprints. All I changed was brake fluid and pads. Found the limits of road/track pads pretty quickly. Can confirm lack of front camber is a problem. Front edges destroyed. Other than that the car was great.
 

Jb991

New member
Location
Spring TX
Hey guys, new to the forum. I have an R enroute that I'm purchasing for track duty. It'll sound odd to some of you, but this is to save some money and damage to my 991 GT3. Private track events I'll end up using the Porsche, but for the group days I want to use the R.
With that said, how capable are these calipers? Slotted rotors, new pads, and new fluids to handle more heat will be first on the list of mods. If these calipers seem to be holding up, I'll hold on to them and hold off on a BBK. Are there any kits to do caliper upgrades/rebuilds? Stronger Pistons, better seals and boots?

I don't need go fast bits yet, but I'm heavy and late on the brakes, so need to be sure I can stop with optimal performance.

Excited to get out to the track with the car and hopefully pick up some good ideas on upgrades to make the experience at the track more enjoyable.
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
Hey guys, new to the forum. I have an R enroute that I'm purchasing for track duty. It'll sound odd to some of you, but this is to save some money and damage to my 991 GT3. Private track events I'll end up using the Porsche, but for the group days I want to use the R.
With that said, how capable are these calipers? Slotted rotors, new pads, and new fluids to handle more heat will be first on the list of mods. If these calipers seem to be holding up, I'll hold on to them and hold off on a BBK. Are there any kits to do caliper upgrades/rebuilds? Stronger Pistons, better seals and boots?

I don't need go fast bits yet, but I'm heavy and late on the brakes, so need to be sure I can stop with optimal performance.

Excited to get out to the track with the car and hopefully pick up some good ideas on upgrades to make the experience at the track more enjoyable.

Congrats on the new R. Like you, I'm wanting to get prepared for my first outing too. From the responses I've gotten, the car is well equipped in stock form for reasonable track duty. Just expect a LOT of brake dust (most dust I've EVER seen when daily driving...can't imagine the track).

The biggest concern I've seen here is the camber. Most people are saying to dial in a bit more camber prior to going to the track because it will help keep you from shredding the tires.

That brings up a good point though...is there a guide to setting up the camber for the track? Like, something I can do the night before?
 

R Golf

Go Kart Champion
Location
Lenox, MA
This was going to be my first question.

If you're brand new to tracking - I usually suggest getting rid of the tune and have a go with a stock engine. The LAST thing you want to add to a car before going onto the track is power.

For tracking in order of importance:
1. Brakes - you can have 5000HP and if you can't stop, you crash. Stock brake pads may be okay as some have pointed out. Going to a more endurance type of track pad will help with brake fade and last longer without chewing up your rotors. Fluid I would change no matter what. It's always good to have a high-temp fluid to avoid boiling over or a soft, spongy brake pedal.
2. Seat time
3. Seat time
4. Seat time
5. Seat time
6. Handling - This would include making changes to springs, shocks, bushings, alignment, tires etc.
7. Seat time
8. Seat time
9. Seat time
10. Maybe adding HP. Adding HP includes adding heat. Heat is the enemy for tracking and can cause more problems. Yes, and intercooler will help with the intake temp, but what about oil temps (do you need to run an oil cooler and diff cooler?).

I drove my street car on the track for eight years. I did everything on the list above except for adding HP (I had a tune on a NA BMW330i, that increased the power from 255 to a whopping 270 maybe). Now I race in SCCA and AER endurance races.
As you can see, I'm a big fan of seat time. It's the biggest difference that can be made out on the track. I was quicker than a lot of my friends that had either M3's or highly modified 335's.

TBH: I wouldn't mess with brakes at all. If you're going to track your car, it's the last thing you want to worry about. Going for a brake pedal that isn't firm or having a longer and longer travel will ruin your weekend.
I'm assuming you're not going to remove the APR Stage 2 tune, so you're actually playing with more HP than the car I race.

Be careful. Be smooth. Don't scare your instructor.

This is by far the best advice in my opinion. Great stuff. Don't sweat any of the upgrades at this stage.

I was a PCA instructor for 6 years and could not tell you how many people would come to the track for the first time, having no clue how to drive at or near the limit (purely due to lack of track time, not anything inherent to their skills) asking what should they do to enhance the performance of their GT or TurboS. These cars and the Golf R as well are going to be way faster than you for at least a year dead stock. Seat time is by far the most important thing at this stage. The best time to make changes to your car is when YOU know what you want changed. i.e. is the car under steering mid turn? Do YOU not like the way it exits from the apex? You want to make changes according to how you drive and how you want your car to respond.

The only way to know you are making the right choices is to get seat time.

Also, I would suggest less aggressive rubber than PSC2's at first. Stock, or maybe PSS as the most aggressive will give you better breakaway heads up. Other than that, follow 2015White GTI's advice, and you will have a great time, and great development.
 

Cliff

Drag Racing Champion
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
2015 Cayman GTS
Just as the title states, I'm a new Golf R owner looking to run some sessions on the track but I want to make sure I have everything I need to ensure it remains reliable. Also, track use (to me) is circuit tracks, not drag racing.

Currently I'm at APR Stage 2 (including the intercooler) so I should have the ability to keep IATs down a bit.

What else is recommended for Golf Rs that will be used on the track? I'm seeing people say there's a tendancy for oil to pool in the cylinder head and a new catch can/oil return system is needed to keep it from blowing the oil into the intake tract. Looks like a $700 kit. Necessary or no? Also, standard oil and brake fluid ok? Additionally, I know the aftermarket dogbone inserts are intended to keep the engine from pivoting under hard acceleration and braking. How important is that upgrade before track use?

I currently have 19 track days on my R with a weekend at Laguna Seca coming up in 2 weeks. If you are new to HPDE events, then your skills are going to be the limiting factor and not the car. Your best option is to spend money on seat time, and the experience you gain will tell you what the weak points on the car are. Right now, that weak point is probably you.

If you want to spend money on the car, then good 200 treadwear tires are your biggest bang for the buck. RE71R's are great tires, but they wear out fast on the track. I run Dunlop ZII Star Specs as they are a good compromise between performance and tire life.

That brings up a good point though...is there a guide to setting up the camber for the track? Like, something I can do the night before?

Camber is not adjustable in this car without changing to longer control arms or using camber plates. None of the camber plate options out there are user adjustable. I am running Ground Control camber plates and unlike most options they are adjustable without removing the strut, but they are still not user adjustable (unless you have an alignment rack in your garage).
 

Swoope

Ready to race!
Location
orlando
This is by far the best advice in my opinion. Great stuff. Don't sweat any of the upgrades at this stage.

I was a PCA instructor for 6 years and could not tell you how many people would come to the track for the first time, having no clue how to drive at or near the limit (purely due to lack of track time, not anything inherent to their skills) asking what should they do to enhance the performance of their GT or TurboS. These cars and the Golf R as well are going to be way faster than you for at least a year dead stock. Seat time is by far the most important thing at this stage. The best time to make changes to your car is when YOU know what you want changed. i.e. is the car under steering mid turn? Do YOU not like the way it exits from the apex? You want to make changes according to how you drive and how you want your car to respond.

The only way to know you are making the right choices is to get seat time.

Also, I would suggest less aggressive rubber than PSC2's at first. Stock, or maybe PSS as the most aggressive will give you better breakaway heads up. Other than that, follow 2015White GTI's advice, and you will have a great time, and great development.

brilliant!

i will comment on the fact that if you are at the intermediate + level, without camber the mich pss will not survive hpde events..

beers
 

2015WhiteGTI

Go Kart Champion
Hey guys, new to the forum. I have an R enroute that I'm purchasing for track duty. It'll sound odd to some of you, but this is to save some money and damage to my 991 GT3. Private track events I'll end up using the Porsche, but for the group days I want to use the R.
With that said, how capable are these calipers? Slotted rotors, new pads, and new fluids to handle more heat will be first on the list of mods. If these calipers seem to be holding up, I'll hold on to them and hold off on a BBK. Are there any kits to do caliper upgrades/rebuilds? Stronger Pistons, better seals and boots?

I don't need go fast bits yet, but I'm heavy and late on the brakes, so need to be sure I can stop with optimal performance.

Excited to get out to the track with the car and hopefully pick up some good ideas on upgrades to make the experience at the track more enjoyable.

TBH: For the $35-40K range you're going to spend on the R, plus mods for a track toy I'd look for a Spec E46 or E36/46 M3 dedicated track car instead.

In the long-run, this would be the best solution for a track car. A full sorted E46 M3 will run you closer to $40K+, but it'll be close to as quick as your GT3.

I've driven a nicely sorted Spec E46 and they're a blast. If you're not running in the spec series, you can upgrade the brakes and go to full R-Comps for more speed. The suspension on them is stellar and the cars are very well balanced (easy to play with at the limit). You can get them for low $30K fully built.
 

makopolo

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Media, Pa
Just got back from a weekend at New Jersey Motorsports Park: Lightning Circuit.

100% Stock and the car took it all in stride. This was my first time on track so the first day everything was good with the stock setup. The second day the pace and consistency improved and the tires were the limiting factor as they started to overheat about half way through the session and would take a couple of laps to recover.

Oil temp seemed to stabilized at 240, unfortunately this coincided with my tires going so I am not sure if it would have stayed there without reducing the pace. The brakes seemed fine, but there are only two heavy breaking zones on this track.

Overall I think the car is perfectly fine for the first couple of track days at novice level.
 

Euro Tech

Ready to race!
Location
United States
OK guys here is the thing. I did a track day, I had a ton of smoke behind me braking from the straight at 145mph+ down to about 35mph, I figured ah my brakes ok fine. Well this was happening every few laps, again I figured brakes, stock pads etc. Well after examining my video's I see it was from my tailpipes, later I find this article http://www.racingline-performance.com/vwr-oil-catch-can#Oil-Surge-DYK

I see now that there is an oil surge issue with the MK7, the majority of track day guys probably won't experiance this because well lets be honest, no balls! Kidding, kind of but really most people wont be seeing these conditions that I saw. Crazy thing about it is I was on PSS tires, not track tires so it would be even worse with some real nice 100 tread wear tires. For an example of this here is a video of it happening in my car. Start watching at 7:00 and watch me brake from the straight.



So needless to say this catch can is next on my list to see if this solves it, now I really hope I did not cause any damage.
 

TheMaOdy66

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Germany
This was going to be my first question.

If you're brand new to tracking - I usually suggest getting rid of the tune and have a go with a stock engine. The LAST thing you want to add to a car before going onto the track is power.

For tracking in order of importance:
1. Brakes - you can have 5000HP and if you can't stop, you crash. Stock brake pads may be okay as some have pointed out. Going to a more endurance type of track pad will help with brake fade and last longer without chewing up your rotors. Fluid I would change no matter what. It's always good to have a high-temp fluid to avoid boiling over or a soft, spongy brake pedal.
2. Seat time
3. Seat time
4. Seat time
5. Seat time
6. Handling - This would include making changes to springs, shocks, bushings, alignment, tires etc.
7. Seat time
8. Seat time
9. Seat time
10. Maybe adding HP. Adding HP includes adding heat. Heat is the enemy for tracking and can cause more problems. Yes, and intercooler will help with the intake temp, but what about oil temps (do you need to run an oil cooler and diff cooler?).

I drove my street car on the track for eight years. I did everything on the list above except for adding HP (I had a tune on a NA BMW330i, that increased the power from 255 to a whopping 270 maybe). Now I race in SCCA and AER endurance races.
As you can see, I'm a big fan of seat time. It's the biggest difference that can be made out on the track. I was quicker than a lot of my friends that had either M3's or highly modified 335's.

TBH: I wouldn't mess with brakes at all. If you're going to track your car, it's the last thing you want to worry about. Going for a brake pedal that isn't firm or having a longer and longer travel will ruin your weekend.
I'm assuming you're not going to remove the APR Stage 2 tune, so you're actually playing with more HP than the car I race.

Be careful. Be smooth. Don't scare your instructor.
100 % agreed!

After more than 1.000 laps alone on Nordschleife I think I can say I am an
experienced track driver though I am no instructor like @2015WhiteGti. And
I must completely copy what he wrote.

No tune, the R is fast enough (proof in the YT-Link in my sig.). Fast enough
in a way that most of the drivers never reach the limit.

Brake Upgrade is obligatory, essential. Who says he did days and days on
track with OEM brake material is simply too slow.

A coil kit is the next invest, combined with a proper wheel tire combination.
Best in my experience is a light 18'' rim with 235 or 245 tires.

The rest is practice, practice, practice.
 
Last edited:
Top