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If you drilled your crash bar for FMIC install, come in!

JakeFromStateFarm

Ready to race!
Location
Denver, CO
Yeah you definitely need Cobalt bits and yeah start with the very smallest. Still took me more than 20 minutes to get both holes up to size.
 

teemmy

Ready to race!
Location
bay area, CA
Make sure you have a strong drill as well. I'm glad I had an industrial one - definitely made it easier, but it still took quite a long time. Ear plugs were a great help too :)

I felt like I spent more time on the install than just doing an OEM replacement... But the nice thing is that taking it off in the future will be a piece of cake if I ever need to part out!
 

DEjetta

New member
Location
Milford, DE
Did mine this morning after work. I had zero issues with drilling the bar, took about 5 minutes total. Used a new 1/8" cobalt and a 19/64" cobalt drill bit at low speed and went through like butter.
 
One side went well, i used a cordless drill that the shop had. got that whole little string of metal going and everything. right after i went through with the first drill bit, the cordless broke and i had to use the pneumatic. its basically just a two speed, crawl slow and blast fast. i got the holes drilled, broke two of the bits and ended up trashing a but of the shops bits biut its its done.
 

-Dutch-

Drag Race Newbie
Location
RI
Cobalt bits are fantastic. Well worth the money for DIY folks, don't waste it on five sets of titanium coated nonsense. Cobalt bits can be resharpened when you wear them down but when a titanium coated bit is dull it's toast. No better than high speed steel after that. Hell, I've put a fresh edge on cobalts with a dremel and an angle-grinder before, no need for a drill-doctor or other fancy sharpeners if you've got a steady hand.
 
Cobalt bits are fantastic. Well worth the money for DIY folks, don't waste it on five sets of titanium coated nonsense. Cobalt bits can be resharpened when you wear them down but when a titanium coated bit is dull it's toast. No better than high speed steel after that. Hell, I've put a fresh edge on cobalts with a dremel and an angle-grinder before, no need for a drill-doctor or other fancy sharpeners if you've got a steady hand.


im not really good with stuff like welding and drilling, but at least now i know what kind of drill bits to get. i should have gotten more sizes it would have made making the hole easier
 

-Dutch-

Drag Race Newbie
Location
RI
A stepped bit is amazeballs for thin mild steel but for anything substantial, do yourself the favor.
 

Venumous

Ready to race!
Location
NE
FYI yesterday I ran Flashlight Drags in GTI since my fuel system is being installed on my 5.0 and my Cobra is having a heart transplant. With 85 Deg weather the AC was struggling to keep up. Likely connected I would think.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Venumous

Ready to race!
Location
NE
I did my Neuspeed is38 FMIC on Saturday, with zero install issues. And drilling seemed like a breeze! :) No issues drilling here!

Doesn't NSPD mount into the existing radiator core?
 

MadMen

Ready to race!
Location
Mooresville, NC
So how thick is the crash bar?
 

ashiun

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto, Ontario
I thought roid rage has direct fit intercooler, not FMIC
 

Anchorjaw

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Los Angeles
So how thick is the crash bar?
About an 1/8th of an inch I'd say. But the hardest 1/8th inch you will ever drill through if you don't have the right bits

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using Tapatalk
 

MadMen

Ready to race!
Location
Mooresville, NC
About an 1/8th of an inch I'd say. But the hardest 1/8th inch you will ever drill through if you don't have the right bits

Sent from my SM-J700T1 using Tapatalk

I'm hoping to just remove the bar and put it on the drill press.
 
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