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Breaking Bad - My meth journey

Ricked_Em

Go Kart Champion
Location
STL
Ordered. Meth coming next month


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nkresho

suck, squish, bang, blow
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
2022 Q3
Nkresho, did you ever log AFR out of curiosity?

No idea why I never got a message that this thread had replies.

Sorry.

Yeah, the dyno plots include AFR, but my logs didn't. It's the green line.

But, its at the tailpipe, per the dyno.

Also, as a side note, with all this new talk of adjustable eurodyne files, i'm actually considering getting back into the meth... Now that I can tune octane, I can actually do some meaningful adjustment.

And, kinda itching to is38 too.
 

Ricked_Em

Go Kart Champion
Location
STL
No idea why I never got a message that this thread had replies.

Sorry.

Yeah, the dyno plots include AFR, but my logs didn't. It's the green line.

But, its at the tailpipe, per the dyno.

Also, as a side note, with all this new talk of adjustable eurodyne files, i'm actually considering getting back into the meth... Now that I can tune octane, I can actually do some meaningful adjustment.

And, kinda itching to is38 too.
Do iiiiiiiit. So awesome

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Luvs2speed

Ready to race!
Location
US
Hey guys, I figured I would ask in here before starting another meth thread. Hopefully, someone can answer. I am about to pull the trigger on a meth kit but I am wondering if its not worth doing unless I stack with JB4. My mods are in sig, but I was thinking about doing meth in the washer fluid res, and using the bung on the IE intercooler. Is this not going to yield much? I could do it for half the cost of adding a JB4 + cable + throttle pipe etc. So I am wondering if I am better off waiting or if I can get some good benefits using what I have.

One more question, what kit would you recommend for going off the intercooler and not having a separate meth controller like the JB4. I realize if your not tuning the car with more boost/timing there are less gains, but as I understand there would be no risk if you run out of meth since the car would be on a 93 oct tune. Lower IAT and some timing advance should still occur due to optimal conditions, plus it will put less stress on the turbo and keep carbon at bay.

What do you guys think?
 

Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
Hey guys, I figured I would ask in here before starting another meth thread. Hopefully, someone can answer. I am about to pull the trigger on a meth kit but I am wondering if its not worth doing unless I stack with JB4. My mods are in sig, but I was thinking about doing meth in the washer fluid res, and using the bung on the IE intercooler. Is this not going to yield much? I could do it for half the cost of adding a JB4 + cable + throttle pipe etc. So I am wondering if I am better off waiting or if I can get some good benefits using what I have.

One more question, what kit would you recommend for going off the intercooler and not having a separate meth controller like the JB4. I realize if your not tuning the car with more boost/timing there are less gains, but as I understand there would be no risk if you run out of meth since the car would be on a 93 oct tune. Lower IAT and some timing advance should still occur due to optimal conditions, plus it will put less stress on the turbo and keep carbon at bay.

What do you guys think?

If you go with a small nozzle like cm3 you can easly get away with only using a Hobbs switch and starting flow around 7-10 psi.

Devils own and other companies make nice adaptors to go into rubber hose.

This bung for tapping the tank is well worth the price:

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=3819436...17182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1219307708756&chn=ps
 
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Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
Top for making a hole in your tank:

1. Find a socket with an outer diameter the correct size for the bung.
2. Grab it with a pair of meddle nose pliers.
3. Get it hot with a propane torch.
4. Press it into the tank where you want the hole.

Doing it this way gives you a perfect hole with a thickened flange around where it melts. This gives you a nice sturdy sealing surface for the bung.

You can practice on a milk jug first of you want. The plastic is the same.
 

Luvs2speed

Ready to race!
Location
US
Awesome. thanks for the feedback and the great suggestion on making the hole in the tank! I am totally new to W/M so I am trying to do more research and learn about the Hobbs switch. I know its boost pressure activated but does it command full spray once it kicks in?

I like the idea of a simple switch and being able to get a set-up without a boost/ meth gauge controller since I just installed a boost gauge and don't need 2. I should be able to save a few bucks without a tank and controller if I can just use the Hobbs switch set up.

So would the http://www.coolingmist.com/product-page/stage-1-methanol-water-injection-kit or the and tank tap + CM3 be all that's needed for what I am going for? This looks like it has an adjustable Hobbs switch already set to 10PSI. http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/universal/513-customizable-stage-1.html#/tank_and_float_switch-no_thanks/solenoid_upgrade-no_thanks/stainless_steel_line_upgrade-no_thanks/pressure_switch-sq2_6_30_psi Devils own is 10% off this weekend too!

Without progressive control but using a small nozzle I am guessing full spray as long as you're over your target boost will work for cooling purposes. All the previous posts seem to have better luck with the small nozzle and lower boost activation.

I guess I am just a little confused as I would think you need the most spray at high boost and high RPM so you would not want the same amount @15psi as you would @28psi. The hobbs seems like all or nothing. Is that the case?
 
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Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
Yes. Without progressive control, you get what you get. You start spraying as soon as the car can handle the flow without misfiring, but you want enough flow to have a decent impact on cooling at higher load and RPM. You choose a nozzle size and spray start psi that gives acceptable results. Cm3, Do3 or similar a good start for this car.

It's a compromise, but it works because modern (especially this) cars are smart enough to adjust. So yes, your probably spraying too much on the bottom and not enough on top, but the car doesn't care because it will adjust for the fuel and IAT difference caused by the spray.

It may not be perfect, but a non progressive low flow setup works good for basic cooling and timing improvement. The important thing is that you have made average conditions better for power and the car will adjust.

Made up example: No meth, stock intercooler, 80 degree day. IAT125F start, 110F midrange, 115 top end.
Or
Non progressive cm3 start@ 10psi 80 degree day. IAT 125 start, 90F midrange, 100 top end.

In the example above, you lowered midrange temps 20 degrees and 15 on top. And you added a volume of vapor to the combustion chamber that will lower tendency to knock or pre ignite. You could always do better with an optimized setup. But this is good enough for more power. Cooler air, more power. Cooler air, more timing, more power. Cooler combustion and higher octane, more timing, more power. It all ads up.

If you want to push setups farther and get the most benefit, progressive control is good. But a basic low flow setup is a good gain over nothing. Probably as good or better than an intercooler upgrade.
 

Ton

Go Kart Newbie
Location
U.S.
You can always ad parts later if you want. I have a simple setup, but now that I have upgraded my turbo and got greedy, I'm adding stuff.

BMS failsafe board and a cm7 nozzle. I hope for early cooling and enough capacity for consistent cooling to redline. Ambient or below IAT is possible.
 

Luvs2speed

Ready to race!
Location
US
Ton, thanks so much for the advise. This is great info. I think I am going to start with the devils own stage 1 kit as it's on sale, comes with the tank tap you mentioned and an adjustable pressure switch.

I think I'll try hooking it up with the DO3 and set to 10psi to start. Since I cannot catalog I'll have to go off feel but it sounds like I sounds be able to tell if I am flowing to much. I can at least watch boost and IAT.

on this type of setup-up, do you still recommend 50/50 mix? I have read mixed things about using the 70/30 washer fluid or 50/50 WM mix for cooling. Some seem to say the higher water cont my is a little better for cooling the the higher meth is something to do when you can take more advantage with tuning for boost and timing.

I would be a little nervous to get it all hooked up and do the first pull but it sounds like low flow from the setup I would do couldn't really hurt anything, if anything I'd just be falling a little short of optimal cooling up top.
 

Luvs2speed

Ready to race!
Location
US
Why not just get... It's got the sprayer tap already to go. http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Engin..._R68RuoAsCi_LBOMz0ltX1TPwmD6Ck4C8uBoCrfLw_wcB

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That looks like a great kit, but I don't need the boost tap, I already have it, I also don't need the tank or throttle pipe. I will be using the meth bung on the IC to give the longest time for cooling. That kit looks great but it's close to double the cost of the DevilsOwn and Snow kits and it has a bunch of stuff I am paying for but don't need.
 

PacDawg

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Gilroy, CA
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