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Old 12-01-2016, 12:33 PM   #1
golfdave
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How to retro-fit the Audi TT-RS Front Brake Air Guide/Flaps to a MK7 Golf

WARNING
This guide is still being finished & pictures have to be sorted, I have put this thread out there to get the info out. It does work all ok.

This guide is a “How to” retro-fit the Audi TT-RS front brake air guide/flaps to a MK7 Golf. The car used in this guide is a UK spec, MK7 Golf Estate GT (Highline), 1.4lt TSI (140PS), fitted with the 6speed manual gearbox, & standard pressed steel front wishbones.


Back Ground Facts:-
There are “air deflectors” fitted to many small VAG cars to increase air flow to the front discs. In these cases the wheel rims & wheel arches are small that they virtually encase the brakes & restrict the air flow to them. So VAG fit air deflectors/guides to the fronts of the wishbones. However on the bigger cars there is supposed to be enough room to allow the air flow to naturally cool the brakes down. Unfortunately I & many others have found that on a long (enthusiastic) drives over twisty roads, or track use that the cooling is not adequate!

These items are made to fit the Audi TT cast alloy front lower wishbones, the VW MK7 Golf has pressed sheet steel versions. Therefore some modifications to the air guide/flaps are required & not all the parts per the Audi fitment are required, as other items are needed instead!

Forum member “Pacific German” has fitted these same items to the SuperPro “Supaloy” front wishbones that they fitted.

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=90
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:33 PM   #2
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Part I

VAG ETKA illustration for Audi TT-RS/Body/No. 863-020
Item No. 51:- 8P0 863 149 B, Air Duct left £20.17 x1 ***
Item No. 51:- 8P0 863 150 B, Air Duct right £20.17 x1 ***
Item No. 52:- N 104 222 03, M8x50 hex bolt with shoulder/flange/washer x2
Item No. 53:- N 907 611 02, M8 hex nut with shoulder x2
Item No. 54:- 8J0 864 133 A, M8x25 (18mm O/D) Spacer sleeve alloy x2
*** = Only these items required from the dealers in my project!

Other parts which may be required
• M10x50mm bolts (stainless steel) x2
• M10 dome nuts (stainless steel) x2
• M10x20mm washers (stainless steel) x2
• M10x30mm penny washers (stainless steel) x2
• M10 black nylon spacers (20mm O/D) 10mm high x2
• M10 black nylon spacers (20mm O/D) 15mm high x2
• Blue (medium strength) threadloc
You could use nylock nuts instead of the domed versions, & 55mm bolts if that is all you can get.

Torque settings
None given just hand tight & use blue threadloc.

Tools required (minimum)
Sharp “Stanley” knife
Metal file
2000grit wet & dry sand paper
17mm socket
17mm spanner, or slim head adjustable

Misc info
Unsprung weights & considerations
Modified flap 0.17kg (0.37lb) each side
Stainless steel bolts & washers & plastic spacers 0.07kg (0.15lb) each side

Pics
Attached Images
  
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Last edited by golfdave; 12-04-2016 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:33 PM   #3
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Part II

Fitting to wishbone:-
Firstly it is best to be able to jack up & have the whole front end of the car in the air & supported by either axle stands, or in my case two 3ton professional trolley jacks! Firstly slacken off the respective wheel bolts whilst the car is on the ground, then jack up & fully remove the wheel bolts & wheel. This will give you better access for trial fitting of the air guide & you can then fully turn the steering from full lock side to side to see if the brake calipers interfere with the air guides/flaps.

I took pictures of a modified air guide next to an un-modified air guide for comparison, unfortunately I have lost them in a “delete” on my computer when moving folders around!!! However all is not lost as I remembered what they looked like in “original” form.

Firstly you have to modify the duct to fit the lower wishbone! Using a sharp wood chisel remove all the internal small wedges which are stopping you from pushing the flap over the wishbone. Once you have got the flap fitting flush/tight with the front face of the wishbone you can then cut the lower “arm” on the flap so it does not extend to the rear steel part of the wishbone, as otherwise this forces the arm down. Then cut the top arm flush with the wishbone for a more tidy/professional appearance. Use a metal file, & wet & dry fine sandpaper to smooth the cut edges for a factory finish.

Using the existing 10mm hole in the wishbone we need to bolt the guide/flap to the arm, so drill a 10mm hole on top “arm” 41/42mm from centre of hole to back of flap. For the bottom arm, the hole is 43mm from centre of hole to back of flap. Both holes need to be in the centre of the width of the arm. Trim the excess waste plastic from the holes, & trial fit over the wishbone. Insert the bolt, washers, spacers as follows:- Bolt/penny washer/arm/15mm spacer/wishbone/10mm spacer/arm/20mm washer/dome nut.

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Last edited by golfdave; 12-01-2016 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:34 PM   #4
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Part III

Modifications to Duct/Flap to allow for brake calipers

Because this is made for the Audi TTRS which has bigger brakes (340x30mm) it does not interfere with the brake calipers when you turn the wheel inwards as these calipers are further away from the wishbone & pivot point to allow for the bigger disc. So if you have the standard fit 288mm discs or GTD/GTI/DCC optional 312mm discs you will need to trim/modify the flaps. If you have other aftermarket calipers (Brembo/Tar-ox/etc.) you will need to modify also.

Most interference occurs when the suspension is extended, & the wheel turned inwards, which in reality would be the outside wheel on a bend. This happens to be in compression & not extension though! However I decided to make certain that there is no interference in any condition! Then main body of the flap is now 112/113mm height now on mine.

I then decided to cut away part of the upper & lower sections to clear the bolts for the ball joint also. Basically compare your new duct/flap to what I have in the pictures & remove as little, or as much as you require!

By now you will have had the flap/air guide on & off the wishbone several times. Once you are happy with the fit & no interference of the item with any other suspension, or brake parts then using a metal file, & wet & dry fine sandpaper smooth the cut edges for a factory finish. Now do the bolt up etc. Basically you do not want to over tighten & crack the plastic. I put a spanner on the bolt head to stop rotation & did up the dome nut with just the socket (no handle/ratchet) as this limits the amount of force you can apply before your grip starts to slip on the socket. Remember to use threadlock on the nuts, unless you are using nylock nuts!

Does it work? Yes It does!! My alloys are dirtier now where the brakes vent out from their leading edge, but the brake discs are much cooler!

Final Pictures
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Last edited by golfdave; 12-01-2016 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:04 PM   #5
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Nice work! Are you worried about any water/snow/etc being directed towards the brakes?
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bäsemödel View Post
Nice work! Are you worried about any water/snow/etc being directed towards the brakes?
Slightly, will see how it goes over winter but this has been done before & is standard on smaller VAG cars & on the Audi TT-RS, so it must be relatively OK....
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:04 PM   #7
SK VeeDubR
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Love these OEM+ DIYs!!

Thanks again for your hard work, it's appreciated
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:17 PM   #8
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You say it keeps the discs cooler, have you got the before and after temp in a controlled test? Would like to see the results.
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:30 PM   #9
golfdave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB2429 View Post
You say it keeps the discs cooler, have you got the before and after temp in a controlled test? Would like to see the results.
Sorry don't have test equipment, didn't realise it was a requirement....


Like I said in the guide I have traveled the same roads at similar winter temps & at the end of the journey (final 60 miles the same, overall dist similar), my brakes were hot to the touch but way cooler than previously...previously they were too hot to touch!

.infact previously I had to go easy on the brakes for the last 8 miles due to brake fade..this time I did not go easy as no brake fade...speaks for it's self

Ask forum member Pacific German as they track their car & have test gear & they have done this mod...
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:21 PM   #10
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One comment - why didn't you use Nylock nuts?
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fed View Post
One comment - why didn't you use Nylock nuts?
I state in the thread you can, just I wanted domed for a clean finish & trying to find domed nyloc in stainless steel is a bit hard...so I just used blue thread lock as I have that!
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:51 PM   #12
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Great write up. I remember seeing this in the mk5 days and i'm certainly considering this for my mk7.
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:33 PM   #13
lumberjackzac
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It looks like all the dealer parts can be had from Deutsche autoparts for around $140. Any reason why it wouldn't work on a Mk7 GTI?
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:25 PM   #14
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You have to drill the stamped steel LCAs, and do some chopping to the dust covers, but other than that, good to go. I'd say either of those are beyond some individuals comfort level of mods.
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