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Old 03-17-2017, 03:45 PM   #1
mondo
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DTUK CRD-3, 3 channel upgrade chip

Today I received my DTUK CRD-3 Tri-Channel chip.
This is for my 2016 GTD.
Being 3 channel it alters the common rail (fuel), boost & provides "RPM Tuning" so the map can alter according to RPM
(Most units are 2 channel, fuel and boost)

Claimed output is 240PS/176KW and 500NM of torque
DTUK's service is excellent, ordered on Wednesday evening at 10PM in Frankfurt and it arrived this morning in France!
Also, the presentation, box, instructions as well as the advice from DTUK is excellent

DTUK are bluntly honest, as programmable as this thing is, they do state that the power output will not change, but the power delivery characteristics will and that's what I wanted

Installation took a little longer than expected when I dropped a Torx bolt somewhere into the engine.. a mad search with a torch and one of those extendable magnetic efforts that are made for retrieving metallic objects in tight places enabled me to find it!
All in it took ten minutes, you do get cable ties with the product, but I opted to use Velcro straps as I'll removing it prior to services etc..

Although this unit has three programs, each with three settings, DTUK advised me to start on Program-1 Setting-1
That's how I've run it today

Another valid point that DTUK make is that each car is individual, i.e. tolerances on sensors, etc may vary

After emailing DTUK, as per the instructions on the decal that covers the adjustment settings, I received this email from DTUK

The sticker is on the module as 99% of men don't read instructions and simply turn the box onto maximum and then wonder why they have seen an engine light. This usually results in us being slated on social media hence why we've added the stickers asking customers to contact us before making any adjustments to the system

We can then explain the correct procedure and if you then decide to ignore our advice and subsequently see an engine light or experience issues, it's gives us a little recourse.
No disrespect to yourself but I'm a bloke and I never read anything but we're hoping that customers will see the stickers and contact us, so thank you
The module itself needs power, so adjustments must be made with the ignition in the first position or with the engine running.


The box will flash the LED Lights 99% of the time - this means the box is in lock down mode and can’t be adjusted but the flashing lights indicate the Program and fine adjustment that has been selected. Once the box is unlocked by holding the plus and minus buttons down the LED lights will then go solid, this means you can adjust the system.
After several seconds of inactivity on the keypad the system will lock automatically. If in doubt at any time please read the instructions provided with the kit or get in touch.


There are 3 files on the box and 99% of the time the end result is the same overall power, the difference is how the power is delivered. Our advice is to try all 3 programmes/files/maps on zero first and you should then feel subtle differences between the 3 files.

Using the + button adds a touch more power, so from zero we would then suggest moving to +1 and then again comparing the differences.


Why haven't we mentioned +2 and +3, most files are optimised on the zero setting, but due to the differences found in sensor tolerances some cars respond better on +1. Anything higher may result in an engine management light, but there again may not. It is purely down to sensor tolerances, and in some cases fuel quality and ambient air temps can effect things.

Whatever you do please ignore anything you may of read online regarding the "best setting", intact even if you have 2 identical cars in the household please treat each vehicle as a unique item and don't simply assume that the setting you're using in one car, is the best for the other


All we want is for customers to be able to enjoy our product, but to also realise that their car is as unique as them, and in essence some trial and error is required to set up the system to best suit your car, and more importantly your driving style.


If you do see an engine light, don't worry this is your engine stating that you're being "greedy" and if the system is turned down the light will either go out straight away, or after a certain number of full ecu power downs.


We're here to help virtually 24/7 so if you have any problems or further questions please don't hesitate to contact us, that's what we’re here for

So, being on the German border I decided to take the car for a blast
Power delivery is awesome, acceleration from 120KM/h to 210KM/h has most definitely improved, I do feel the additional horsepower but the torque is the "game changer"
Acceleration from 80KM/h to 120+ is astounding, I felt this multiple times when using the filter lane to enter the autobahn

We're still obliged to run winter tyres until April, so I couldn't exceed 210KM/h as that's what my 17" winter tyres are rated to. When I reinstall the 18" standard wheels I am curious to see the 200 to 240KM/h+ acceleration.

Overall the car has a lot more grunt and even lost a little traction in 3rd gear.
The DSG box handles the extra grunt without any juddering or slip

I will be playing with the mapping as I use it until I find a sweet spot that suits me, but as it is right now, I am elated

Rest assured I will keep this Post updated on the progress as I change to "Program 2" tomorrow


Last edited by mondo; 03-18-2017 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:44 PM   #2
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Still running P1 S1, today did my 240KM trip into Frankfurt

The torque delivery is the smile factor here, the DSG now cruises in 6th at 70KM/H, whereas this used to be a 5th gear speed
Top/6th gear acceleration on the autobahn is amazing, a little like having a "pedalbox" fitted, just press down a little and lot happens...

I am certainly seeing an improvement on consumption, with a full tank now 'claiming' in excess of 1000KM/600M range, something I've not achieved before.

I will be removing the CRD-3T this week until I get "permission" from my insurer and VW (good luck to me on this one) to install it..
I also need to send the car back to TUV for a roadworthy test if I get blessings from VW and the insurer.
If not, I will fit it on weekends just for a little fun...
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:23 PM   #3
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The CRD-3 has now been in for just under two weeks, here's my feedback:

Power:

Awesome, acceleration has definitely improved, but as I'm running 17" alloys with winter tyres, I do have traction issues, this should be resolved when I get the 18" factory supplied wheels and tyres back on this week
I've heard the tyres squeak changing from 2nd to 3rd a few times when accelerating hard on a straight road..

Autobahn acceleration has definitely improved, a little like a pedal box, I don't have to depress the accelerator as much as I used to. Accelerating from 120KM/H is all done in 6th now, no more downshifting to 5th (DSG 'box)

Economy

There is a huge difference here, I am now getting over 1000KM per tank, something I never achieved when the car was stock - albeit traveling at a reasonable average speed which is 140KM/H on the autobahn, with the occasional "moments of madness" where I have to accelerate to 180KM/H plus.
My average before was just over 800KM/tank

Overall

If I didn't know it was fitted, I wouldn't know it was there, idling is perfect, no quirks with the auto engine stop/start, no clutch judder (DSG) and no engine warning lights.

I think for the value you get a lot, we know to improve a car by 40BHP+ and the torque by 120NM costs big money if you're doing it the "conventional" way by means of gas flowing, exhausts, inlet mods etc, and as diesel is still a dark art when it comes to performance parts, there is always the question of reliability when doing this.
For a plug in solution I can only recommend one of these (or any other reputable brand of plug-in solution)

It certainly puts the GT back into the GTD
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mondo View Post
Today I received my DTUK CRD-3 Tri-Channel chip.
This is for my 2016 GTD.
I've got the same car and box as you, what map do you run out of interest? I use 2+1
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:59 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Chriz1 View Post
I have the same box on my gtd and any map 3 brings instant limp mode when accelerating hard and map 2 I get the coil and engine light come on, just trying map 1ís now bit disappointed as map 3 felt real nice
It varies car to car apparently, I've seen people recommend 1+1. You've tried 2+0 and 3+0? I've not tried map 3.
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Old 10-20-2017, 10:00 AM   #6
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i got limp mode in all of the maps so i changed to a CRD T+ box and have had no issues with any of the maps 1,2 or 3
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Old 10-23-2017, 05:46 PM   #7
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I've tried all 3 maps on my CRD3+ now and definitely prefer map 2 and have it on +1 too. Might try +2 but want to avoid limp mode which ive experienced previously for a different reason
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:46 PM   #8
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Yes the power is exactly the same they told me my boost sensor might be faulty but I only had problems when the 3+ box was fitted and touch wood I havenít had any issues with the t+ box a lot of people buy the boxes myself included second hand and donít realise that the warranty is non transferable thatís why itís the first thing they ask you when you call


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Old 10-24-2017, 08:49 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sturgeon boy View Post
Yes the power is exactly the same they told me my boost sensor might be faulty but I only had problems when the 3+ box was fitted and touch wood I havenít had any issues with the t+ box a lot of people buy the boxes myself included second hand and donít realise that the warranty is non transferable thatís why itís the first thing they ask you when you call


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Also that boost sensor is nearly £80 and there are 2 two choose from so if you buy the wrong one or thatís not the fault itís a dear mistake


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Old 10-28-2017, 07:36 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Chriz1 View Post
Thatís interesting,

I may had to sell this one and get the same box you have in that case

I canít see it being the boost sensor as without the box I never get problems, and there doesnít resemble to be much talk about faulty boost sensors here or elsewhere online that I can find
Sounds like your second hand box is faulty or programmed for a different car or transmission maybe
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by sturgeon boy View Post
i got limp mode in all of the maps so i changed to a CRD T+ box and have had no issues with any of the maps 1,2 or 3
Sounds faulty, where did you get it from?
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:40 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by sadsac View Post
Sounds faulty, where did you get it from?


I bought mine second hand at 6 months old thinking I still had a warranty something dtuk told me wasnít transferable so I got my money back from the seller


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Old 10-31-2017, 05:07 PM   #13
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I bought mine second hand at 6 months old thinking I still had a warranty something dtuk told me wasnít transferable so I got my money back from the seller
You did well to get a refund. Always risky buying second hand - could have been faulty or not as described. Glad the new box is going well.
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