If you're looking for a custom OEM+ shifter, check this guy out 
- Shorty's Short Shifters for VW
- Shorty's Short Shifters for VW 7
SK VeeDubR's MK7 Golf R 'progression of events'
- Thread starter HOT H2O
- Start date
02/02/2017 - OEM Spare Tire Assembly Retrofit
Honestly folks - this was probably first on my 'to-do' list, yet took over a year to get around to doing. Not for lack of trying though. Well firstly, I had laid claim to an OEM spare tire from a MK6 R that was being parted out. Guy needed the wheel to roll the car around his shop during the part out which was fine as I was in no huge rush.
Then I scored a fifth 19" parallel spoke from an S3, and entertained the idea of taking the space saver spare from my 1.8T and putting it in the R, then having a full sized spare in the 1.8T (as both the GTI and the Golf can actually accommodate a full sized spare!)
But the Fender audio sub doesn't fit as cleanly in a full sized spare, and you then lose some hatch space in the 1.8T which I really didn't want to give up..
So a few weeks ago, came across an 18" space saver wheel/tire and decided to jump on it, as I grew tired of waiting for the other one I had pre-arranged over a year ago. I then also placed an order through e-Acca for the OEM foam and proper trim piece. I originally planned to simply trim my existing hatch trim to accommodate for the wheel, and not use the (mostly) unnecessary foam, but have I told you I'm a sucker for OEM+
Here is a nice comparison of the two trim pieces side-by-side.
Before. This was my hatch setup from factory. Just a Fender sub, and some tire foam (tire foam not pictured).
After. MK7 R hatch foam, space saver wheel/tire, and OEM trim piece WITH cutout. Note - in the tire inflator/foam kit you should also find your OEM tow hook, wheel bolt cap removal tool, and the dual-headed screw driver. There are provisions for each in the foam piece.
Now I just need to source the correct jack, jack strap, lug wrench etc. For detailed info on this retrofit I encourage you to have a read through this exhaustive thread on the 'tex, it will answer ALL of your questions.
I have to give my compliments to the amazing customer service I received from Natalja at E-acca . Even though it took some time for my parts to be 'picked', communication was always stellar, and the packaging was virtually bomb-proof, with exceptionally fast shipping. I would not hesitate to order from E-acca.
Oh, I almost forgot, I did one other OEM+ 'modification' haha!
Along with my order from E-acca I picked up one of these bad boys
Aside from very early production R's, most all R's this side of the pond, in addition to having a locked console, were also deprived of the inner console rubber mat.
There, much better!
The devil is in the details!
Honestly folks - this was probably first on my 'to-do' list, yet took over a year to get around to doing. Not for lack of trying though. Well firstly, I had laid claim to an OEM spare tire from a MK6 R that was being parted out. Guy needed the wheel to roll the car around his shop during the part out which was fine as I was in no huge rush.
Then I scored a fifth 19" parallel spoke from an S3, and entertained the idea of taking the space saver spare from my 1.8T and putting it in the R, then having a full sized spare in the 1.8T (as both the GTI and the Golf can actually accommodate a full sized spare!)
But the Fender audio sub doesn't fit as cleanly in a full sized spare, and you then lose some hatch space in the 1.8T which I really didn't want to give up..
So a few weeks ago, came across an 18" space saver wheel/tire and decided to jump on it, as I grew tired of waiting for the other one I had pre-arranged over a year ago. I then also placed an order through e-Acca for the OEM foam and proper trim piece. I originally planned to simply trim my existing hatch trim to accommodate for the wheel, and not use the (mostly) unnecessary foam, but have I told you I'm a sucker for OEM+
Here is a nice comparison of the two trim pieces side-by-side.
Before. This was my hatch setup from factory. Just a Fender sub, and some tire foam (tire foam not pictured).
After. MK7 R hatch foam, space saver wheel/tire, and OEM trim piece WITH cutout. Note - in the tire inflator/foam kit you should also find your OEM tow hook, wheel bolt cap removal tool, and the dual-headed screw driver. There are provisions for each in the foam piece.
Now I just need to source the correct jack, jack strap, lug wrench etc. For detailed info on this retrofit I encourage you to have a read through this exhaustive thread on the 'tex, it will answer ALL of your questions.
I have to give my compliments to the amazing customer service I received from Natalja at E-acca . Even though it took some time for my parts to be 'picked', communication was always stellar, and the packaging was virtually bomb-proof, with exceptionally fast shipping. I would not hesitate to order from E-acca.
Oh, I almost forgot, I did one other OEM+ 'modification' haha!
Along with my order from E-acca I picked up one of these bad boys
Aside from very early production R's, most all R's this side of the pond, in addition to having a locked console, were also deprived of the inner console rubber mat.
There, much better!
The devil is in the details!
BlancoGTI17
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ohio
- Car(s)
- 17 GTI Autobahn
Any links to the part numbers for the foam pieces? I scanned the first 8 pages of the 'Tex link and hadn't run across them yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
copied and pasted from that thread I linked earlier..
Spare Wheel: 5K0601011AA (Make sure that it is the 18" GTI wheel, as some sites list a 17" version under the same part number).
Jack Scissor Stand: 5C0011031B (Includes the correct dip in it for the pinch weld.
Jack Handle: 5QM011221 (There are two versions of this, one slightly longer, the other shorter. Both work, but this part number is for the shorter one, which fits in the current version 2015 and 2016) of the foam insert).
Lug Wrench: 6QE012219A (17mm lug wrench. I think that this is the 'official' one, but another part number - 4D0012219A - is more common in the US and a little cheaper. I was sent this one and it fits in the foam insert perfectly, so either is fine. You'll also find this used in most other VWs with spare tires).
Foam ROW: 5G0012115N (From the ROW cars that sits towards the front of the car only (not fully wrapping around the wheel) that fits all the standard tools and has space for a few more bits too. It doesn't require any cutting/trimming to fit).
Cut Out Trim ROW: 5G6863459L82V (If you use a deflated spare tire, you can squash the tire into the trunk OK and it just bends the plastic trim a bit. If you want to keep the spare inflated, then you'll need to cut a curve out of the plastic trim using a small coping saw or a dremel. It looks easy and once the spare is in, you can't see the small cut that you've made (check out the first post for how to do this). If you don't want to do that, you can get the plastic trim piece found in the ROW cars that has a cutout in it already and the spare tire fits perfectly in it with no bending of the plastic trim).
Box strap: 5G0867749 (This isn't needed as it just holds the jack in place in the foam insert, but it's already fairly snug)
BlancoGTI17
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ohio
- Car(s)
- 17 GTI Autobahn
Awesome, thanks! I just today ordered the A3 belly pan to replace the half pan we got on the GTI. As I've said before, love the OEM+ ideas.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, I still need to order that up as well for my 1.8T! Thanks for reminding me!!
BlancoGTI17
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ohio
- Car(s)
- 17 GTI Autobahn
I bought mine through ECS Tuning, they were in sale for 7x.xx and regularly 10x.xx so I hopped on it with the three hex bolts that I'm missing, going to reuse the 8 on the half belly pan sides.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
02/07/2017 - OBDEleven - bringing coding to the masses
This is a game changer for the average backyard car enthusiast all the way to the seasoned technician.. Can't believe I waited this long haha! No more bugging my Master Tech friends to use their VCDS, well mostly I won't have to! This thing is mighty powerful for it's size/cost!
I won't bore you with a long list of all the changes/adaptations/coding I have done, as most of it is stuff we all have been doing. If I come up with something revolutionary I will let you guys know haha!
I will say though, a few of my favourites include:
- Lock while running
- Mirror dip in reverse
- Fan speed display while in 'Auto'
- Heated seat memory
Prior to any changes I backed up each Control Unit / Module, then emailed the backup to myself. This was also done using the OBDEleven app.
I still have yet to get in to the lighting changes.. So much to consider!
This is a game changer for the average backyard car enthusiast all the way to the seasoned technician.. Can't believe I waited this long haha! No more bugging my Master Tech friends to use their VCDS, well mostly I won't have to! This thing is mighty powerful for it's size/cost!
I won't bore you with a long list of all the changes/adaptations/coding I have done, as most of it is stuff we all have been doing. If I come up with something revolutionary I will let you guys know haha!
I will say though, a few of my favourites include:
- Lock while running
- Mirror dip in reverse
- Fan speed display while in 'Auto'
- Heated seat memory
Prior to any changes I backed up each Control Unit / Module, then emailed the backup to myself. This was also done using the OBDEleven app.
I still have yet to get in to the lighting changes.. So much to consider!
02/09/2017 - More Codiing
This little OBDEleven unit continues to impress! I've tweaked most all of my exterior lighting functions, currently am running as follows:
Dimming DRLs with Indicators - (because Euro. Previously my DRLs stayed at full brightness. I tried with DRLs blinking when indicating but they seemed out of phase with the indicator lights.. I may try disabling the indicator lights and having DRLs 'blink' when indicating.. but this is illegal so there's that haha)
Emergency Brake - (haven't tested this function yet but supposedly hazards will flash with HARD braking)
Scandinavian DRLs - Call me crazy, but I prefer to be seen!
Urban Joke V2 Tails - I've put off buying LED tails until I've tried this tweak.. You know, I'm actually torn.. I REALLY like the V2 as the car really stands out. Turn signals are very obvious when compared to stock halogen settings. Hazards are really eye-catching.
Even the brake lights are very obvious compared to the stock halogen settings for North America. I still may buy LED tails because, well, LED tails.. But for now I am happy.
Comfort Blink > 4 (I previously has set to three but I feel with the UJV2 the '4' looks proper)
Disable NAR Restrictions - This is a MUST do IMHO! Headlights raise at speed, cornering lights function with turn signals, adaptive headlights function as the engineers intended! And for shits and giggles I can even select my traffic as Right or Left-hand in the R! Australia here I come!
** All I can say is when you are coding, do your homework, back your sh!t up, and do more homework. Also, don't panic if you think you 'eff' anything up. When coding to disable NAR, I immediately got a fault for my Adaptive Headlights and thought I messed something up. I tried resetting my lights in the infotainment screen, I tried cycling the key, driving, I even tried returning to NAR settings and now that didn't work either!? Then I just read some more.. Turns out I missed the last (and very important) step(s) of the coding - to 'Acknowledge' and 'Activate' Basic Settings in the Headlight Module.
This little OBDEleven unit continues to impress! I've tweaked most all of my exterior lighting functions, currently am running as follows:
Dimming DRLs with Indicators - (because Euro. Previously my DRLs stayed at full brightness. I tried with DRLs blinking when indicating but they seemed out of phase with the indicator lights.. I may try disabling the indicator lights and having DRLs 'blink' when indicating.. but this is illegal so there's that haha)
Emergency Brake - (haven't tested this function yet but supposedly hazards will flash with HARD braking)
Scandinavian DRLs - Call me crazy, but I prefer to be seen!
Urban Joke V2 Tails - I've put off buying LED tails until I've tried this tweak.. You know, I'm actually torn.. I REALLY like the V2 as the car really stands out. Turn signals are very obvious when compared to stock halogen settings. Hazards are really eye-catching.
Even the brake lights are very obvious compared to the stock halogen settings for North America. I still may buy LED tails because, well, LED tails.. But for now I am happy.
Comfort Blink > 4 (I previously has set to three but I feel with the UJV2 the '4' looks proper)
Disable NAR Restrictions - This is a MUST do IMHO! Headlights raise at speed, cornering lights function with turn signals, adaptive headlights function as the engineers intended! And for shits and giggles I can even select my traffic as Right or Left-hand in the R! Australia here I come!
** All I can say is when you are coding, do your homework, back your sh!t up, and do more homework. Also, don't panic if you think you 'eff' anything up. When coding to disable NAR, I immediately got a fault for my Adaptive Headlights and thought I messed something up. I tried resetting my lights in the infotainment screen, I tried cycling the key, driving, I even tried returning to NAR settings and now that didn't work either!? Then I just read some more.. Turns out I missed the last (and very important) step(s) of the coding - to 'Acknowledge' and 'Activate' Basic Settings in the Headlight Module.
02/21/2017 - Coding Light Assist (High Beam Assist or HBA)
So there has been some confusion when coding HBA on car equipped to accommodate. My 2016 Golf R with DAP/Tech is factory equipped to run HBA, however it was not coded on and therefore I was not able to make use of this function until just now. Curiously enough, my 2016 1.8T had HBA enable from factory.
From my understanding is there is a TSB regarding HBA or 'Light Assist' for North America, and VW Technicians have been instructed to code out this feature on service visits, often unbeknownst to the customer. I have seen several reports of this happening to people upon their service visits.. If you had HBA when you bought the car, but have since then gone in to the dealer for service, take a look to see if you still have HBA enabled.
I used OBDEleven to code on my HBA
**with headlamps in OFF position**
Open controller [09-Cent Elec]
Enable [Security Access-16] with code 31347
Open [Adaptation-10] and change the following adaptation channel:
(2)-Assistance light functions - 'Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent'
change from NOT PRESENT to PRESENT
* I'm not sure about the 'Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent Werkseinstellung', but I also set this to 'present' (translates to 'factory setting')
(this enables the Light Assist menu option in the Infotainment Car > Setup screen)
while still in [09-Cent Elec]
Open [Coding-07] and use the Long Coding Helper
Set Byte 2, Bit 0 to 1
The byte should change from 0A to 0B for 6MT, (or 1A to 1B on DSG).
Close the controller
*note - my car is 6MT
now.. (ensure Headlamps still in OFF position)
Open controller [A5-Frnt Assist/Driver Assist]
Open [Coding-07] and use the Long Coding Helper
For MY2016 equipped with 5Q0-980-653-G:
Set Byte 2 to 01 Light Assist AFS: High Beam Assist (HBA)
For MY2017 equipped with 3Q0-980-654-G:
Set Byte 21 to 20 Light Assist AFS: High Beam Assist (HBA)
** with OBDEleven, on the first Coding Screen, you can also simply select High Beam Assist
Close the controller. You might have an intermittent fault code again in A5 or 09 (I can’t remember which.. You should be able to clear it. It shouldn’t come back.)
Go to infotainment Car > Setup > Lights and enable Light Assist (I found that Light Assist may already be enabled/checked in the dropdown screen but if it is not, check it)
Put your headlights on AUTO, flick the LH stalk forward (as if you were engaging high beams). An =(A) icon should appear at the bottom of your cluster display. This indicates LA is working. (you MAY get a fault here, if your coding in control module A5 did not take. Reminder *headlamps must be in OFF position for the coding to be accepted)
Now, you may have to do the following if you are getting another Fault - Light Assist, on your cluster..
'Headlight Adjustment'
*ensure you are on a level surface*
Headlight Range - 55
Basic Settings - 04
Select 'Basic Headlamp Setting' from dropdown menu
Click 'GO' (or green checkmark) to activate basic setting
Make any mechanical adjustments needed, using the lower two plastic screws behind lights if your headlights need to be aimed (shouldn't need to do this but just confirm)
Click 'Stop' after making adjustments
Select 'Acknowledge Basic Setting
Click 'GO' (or green checkmark) to Acknowledge Basic Setting
Should Acknowledge automatically on OBDEleven, or can click 'stop' if you see 'finished correctly' message
I struggled with getting the coding of Control Unit A5 to be accepted as I neglected to have my headlamps in the correct (off) position.. Since I solved this, my HBA assist functions flawlessly!
So there has been some confusion when coding HBA on car equipped to accommodate. My 2016 Golf R with DAP/Tech is factory equipped to run HBA, however it was not coded on and therefore I was not able to make use of this function until just now. Curiously enough, my 2016 1.8T had HBA enable from factory.
From my understanding is there is a TSB regarding HBA or 'Light Assist' for North America, and VW Technicians have been instructed to code out this feature on service visits, often unbeknownst to the customer. I have seen several reports of this happening to people upon their service visits.. If you had HBA when you bought the car, but have since then gone in to the dealer for service, take a look to see if you still have HBA enabled.
I used OBDEleven to code on my HBA
**with headlamps in OFF position**
Open controller [09-Cent Elec]
Enable [Security Access-16] with code 31347
Open [Adaptation-10] and change the following adaptation channel:
(2)-Assistance light functions - 'Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent'
change from NOT PRESENT to PRESENT
* I'm not sure about the 'Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent Werkseinstellung', but I also set this to 'present' (translates to 'factory setting')
(this enables the Light Assist menu option in the Infotainment Car > Setup screen)
while still in [09-Cent Elec]
Open [Coding-07] and use the Long Coding Helper
Set Byte 2, Bit 0 to 1
The byte should change from 0A to 0B for 6MT, (or 1A to 1B on DSG).
Close the controller
*note - my car is 6MT
now.. (ensure Headlamps still in OFF position)
Open controller [A5-Frnt Assist/Driver Assist]
Open [Coding-07] and use the Long Coding Helper
For MY2016 equipped with 5Q0-980-653-G:
Set Byte 2 to 01 Light Assist AFS: High Beam Assist (HBA)
For MY2017 equipped with 3Q0-980-654-G:
Set Byte 21 to 20 Light Assist AFS: High Beam Assist (HBA)
** with OBDEleven, on the first Coding Screen, you can also simply select High Beam Assist
Close the controller. You might have an intermittent fault code again in A5 or 09 (I can’t remember which.. You should be able to clear it. It shouldn’t come back.)
Go to infotainment Car > Setup > Lights and enable Light Assist (I found that Light Assist may already be enabled/checked in the dropdown screen but if it is not, check it)
Put your headlights on AUTO, flick the LH stalk forward (as if you were engaging high beams). An =(A) icon should appear at the bottom of your cluster display. This indicates LA is working. (you MAY get a fault here, if your coding in control module A5 did not take. Reminder *headlamps must be in OFF position for the coding to be accepted)
Now, you may have to do the following if you are getting another Fault - Light Assist, on your cluster..
'Headlight Adjustment'
*ensure you are on a level surface*
Headlight Range - 55
Basic Settings - 04
Select 'Basic Headlamp Setting' from dropdown menu
Click 'GO' (or green checkmark) to activate basic setting
Make any mechanical adjustments needed, using the lower two plastic screws behind lights if your headlights need to be aimed (shouldn't need to do this but just confirm)
Click 'Stop' after making adjustments
Select 'Acknowledge Basic Setting
Click 'GO' (or green checkmark) to Acknowledge Basic Setting
Should Acknowledge automatically on OBDEleven, or can click 'stop' if you see 'finished correctly' message
I struggled with getting the coding of Control Unit A5 to be accepted as I neglected to have my headlamps in the correct (off) position.. Since I solved this, my HBA assist functions flawlessly!
Last edited:
02/28/2017 - more 'tweaks' with OBDEleven
Prob one of my fav visual updates, once again to the lighting, was to code the DRLs to act as my CH/LH lights instead of the dipped beams (Will post a pic soon). They fade on and fade out, and the car looks slightly more badass now haha!
Also coded:
- 'Offroad' data on the multimedia screen
- Video In Motion
- XDS changed from 'Standard' to 'Medium'
- Starting Vibration Reduction from 'Normal' to 'Deactivated'
Will have to see how I like the last two tweaks once the pavement is dry and I have my summers on.. Winter may not be an accurate representation of the full functionality of these changes..
Prob one of my fav visual updates, once again to the lighting, was to code the DRLs to act as my CH/LH lights instead of the dipped beams (Will post a pic soon). They fade on and fade out, and the car looks slightly more badass now haha!
Also coded:
- 'Offroad' data on the multimedia screen
- Video In Motion
- XDS changed from 'Standard' to 'Medium'
- Starting Vibration Reduction from 'Normal' to 'Deactivated'
Will have to see how I like the last two tweaks once the pavement is dry and I have my summers on.. Winter may not be an accurate representation of the full functionality of these changes..
A curious thing..
Here is something a bit curious, never saw mention of this before.. The first pic is of one of my new Euro Power folding mirrors..
the second pic is of an earlier power folding mirror (I believe the Chinese folding mirrors as well as earlier Euro folding mirrors including Kufatecs look like the second pic.)
The third pic (for reference) is of a standard, non-power, spring-folding mirror like North American cars come with from factory..
I am sure it is a change that is precipitated by the all mighty dollar, and is a cost savings measure just like the composite oil pans, the composite shift cable brackets, relay levers etc. I am curious to know if there was a better reason besides strictly financial. The gearing appears to be all metal (without disassembling it), and the lower arm is still cast metal, it's just the upper part of the assembly that attaches to the mirror body that is composite. These mirrors are noticeably lighter than their Chinese counterparts from what I recall, but that was only using my arm scale.
It has been suggested that the mid-cycle change was for weight-savings, to offset the added weight of the power folding mechanism and thus put less stress on the assembly. his is what I am hoping - and that it was a mid-cycle production improvement as opposed to strictly a cost thing.. It is clear the earlier power folding mirrors use much of the same casting as the spring-folding, with the added weight of the mechanism as you mention. I am curious to see if these composite ones are better synchronized on open-close. For reference, my Power folding mirrors were manufactured 18/12/2016.
If people could get me an accurate weight down to the gram of what their power folding mirrors weigh, and indicate if it was an AliExpress Chinese folding mirror, or a Kufatec, or a VW Accessories/aftersales parts mirror, that would be appreciated!
Here is something a bit curious, never saw mention of this before.. The first pic is of one of my new Euro Power folding mirrors..
the second pic is of an earlier power folding mirror (I believe the Chinese folding mirrors as well as earlier Euro folding mirrors including Kufatecs look like the second pic.)
The third pic (for reference) is of a standard, non-power, spring-folding mirror like North American cars come with from factory..
I am sure it is a change that is precipitated by the all mighty dollar, and is a cost savings measure just like the composite oil pans, the composite shift cable brackets, relay levers etc. I am curious to know if there was a better reason besides strictly financial. The gearing appears to be all metal (without disassembling it), and the lower arm is still cast metal, it's just the upper part of the assembly that attaches to the mirror body that is composite. These mirrors are noticeably lighter than their Chinese counterparts from what I recall, but that was only using my arm scale.
It has been suggested that the mid-cycle change was for weight-savings, to offset the added weight of the power folding mechanism and thus put less stress on the assembly. his is what I am hoping - and that it was a mid-cycle production improvement as opposed to strictly a cost thing.. It is clear the earlier power folding mirrors use much of the same casting as the spring-folding, with the added weight of the mechanism as you mention. I am curious to see if these composite ones are better synchronized on open-close. For reference, my Power folding mirrors were manufactured 18/12/2016.
If people could get me an accurate weight down to the gram of what their power folding mirrors weigh, and indicate if it was an AliExpress Chinese folding mirror, or a Kufatec, or a VW Accessories/aftersales parts mirror, that would be appreciated!
A curious thing, part deux..
Here is another interesting thing I thought I'd share. I Bought this Euro power folding mirror switch from Europe..
Just as everyone has said about the Euro switch versus the switch that comes with the Chinese folding Mirrors from AliExpress, these are not painted on the backside. Some have speculated the Chinese market AliEx ones were molded in a different plastic (black as opposed to white), however I can assure you the chinese ones are just painted on both sides, look close on a chinese switch and you will see certain spots in the crevasses that are lightly covered or not painted at all.
The second thing I can confirm is the switchgear on this Euro switch is definitely similar to the mirror switch in our cars now, being a 'soft-touch' or 'soft-click'. The AliExpress ones have almost an audible/crisp snap/click, Now this totally comes down to personal preference. I would say I prefer the 'soft-click' of the Euro piece, however the Chinese piece looks to be better finished on the backside if that matters. There were a few complaints of the AliEx illumination not matching the rest of the car, but those could have just been a bad piece, as most all I've seen look to be spot on.
Now here is the kicker.. this Euro switch - Hecho in China lol!!
Here is another interesting thing I thought I'd share. I Bought this Euro power folding mirror switch from Europe..
Just as everyone has said about the Euro switch versus the switch that comes with the Chinese folding Mirrors from AliExpress, these are not painted on the backside. Some have speculated the Chinese market AliEx ones were molded in a different plastic (black as opposed to white), however I can assure you the chinese ones are just painted on both sides, look close on a chinese switch and you will see certain spots in the crevasses that are lightly covered or not painted at all.
The second thing I can confirm is the switchgear on this Euro switch is definitely similar to the mirror switch in our cars now, being a 'soft-touch' or 'soft-click'. The AliExpress ones have almost an audible/crisp snap/click, Now this totally comes down to personal preference. I would say I prefer the 'soft-click' of the Euro piece, however the Chinese piece looks to be better finished on the backside if that matters. There were a few complaints of the AliEx illumination not matching the rest of the car, but those could have just been a bad piece, as most all I've seen look to be spot on.
Now here is the kicker.. this Euro switch - Hecho in China lol!!
04/16/2017 - What's this!?
haha don't worry, I'm keeping the S3 Parallel Spokes on the R - they just look so damn good on there!
In my quest to further enhance and refine my OEM+ approach for my 1.8T, after many trials and tribulations I finally acquired some OEM Pretoria's! I'll have to get a family picture of both cars again, they grow up so fast don't they?!
haha don't worry, I'm keeping the S3 Parallel Spokes on the R - they just look so damn good on there!
In my quest to further enhance and refine my OEM+ approach for my 1.8T, after many trials and tribulations I finally acquired some OEM Pretoria's! I'll have to get a family picture of both cars again, they grow up so fast don't they?!
