George Ab
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Pacific NW
DIY Door Stop Position Modification (Check Strap Replacement)
Props to veedubtuner over at vortex for the write up on this. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...#post105612361 This is a supplement to that write-up and I used a rear check stop rather than a front.
Why Replace? The existing door check has one stop at a width of 11”, no second stop (most cars do) until door swings to end. I find 11” a tad tight, and having to hold the door so it doesn’t whack the car next to me a minor irritant, and when door is fully extended door handle is a tough reach. By replacing door check with a 2011 to 2015 Jetta door check provides a stop at a width of 13”, another stop at 22” and then the last when door fully opens. For comparison, a 3 Series BMW has a stop at 16” and 24”. Although the replacement door check is shorter the door opens wide enough.
The existing part number 5GM 837 249 is used for both 2 and 4 doors, so this will work on both two and four doors. The initial write up is on a two door and I did on a four door.
Parts: The original author used the front door check from a 2011 to 2014 Jetta 5C6837249B. For my project I used the rear door check from a 2011 to 2014 Jetta part number 5C6839249B. Why did I use a rear instead of a front? The reality is I “messed” up and ordered the wrong part as they look quite similar. However, when I look at pictures of Jetta front and rear it appears that the first stop position provides a wider distance using the rear check stop. Per my eyeball will likely get a similar first stop position using the front stop. The measurements provided above therefore apply to a rear 2011 to 2014 Jetta rear stop check.
So I ordered the check-stop part number 5C6839249 for $15 shipped off of eBay. Note that the part is often mislabeled on eBay as 5C6839267 which is actually the rubber cover where the part number is displayed. Purchased a hand riveter from Harbor Freight for $6. The rivets were not long enough so another $6 at Home Depot for 3/16” width with a coverage depth of ¼”. I had a few 7L6868243 door panel clips around. I usually break two or three when panel is removed.
Note: If you use a front door the stop distance measurements will likely be different then my measurements.
Process: Door panel removal courtesy of inc55 is covered here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17907 I usually support bottom of panel with an appropriate sized box, and removed enough connectors to slide panel back and get enough clearance to drill out the four rivets holding the speaker. I started with a fairly small like 1/8” drill bit and went to 3/16”. You may have to chisel the rivet at the edge to get it completely off. Hardest part of the job is done.
Remove the bolt in frame with a 50mm Torx bit which works, but the proper tool is a 10mm triple square (12 points) and the two door screws with a 30mm Torx. Fish the door check out through speaker hole. Replace the check stop. When installing the bend should face you and the rubber back cover is marked with top left or top right depending on side placed on. Per repair manual Torques are to 30 Nm (22 ft lbs) and two smaller bolts to 9 Nm (6.6 ft lbs). Pop rivet the speaker back on. Put everything back together and enjoy.
Note: You can dremel the second stop, but you likely need to still remove door check in order to have sufficient clearance from the door and the first stop will still be at 11” vice 13”.
Impressions: One of my favorite mods as it is used all the time. The stops are at just the right distance vice too narrow or non-existent. The car should have come this way.
Attached Images
Props to veedubtuner over at vortex for the write up on this. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...#post105612361 This is a supplement to that write-up and I used a rear check stop rather than a front.
Why Replace? The existing door check has one stop at a width of 11”, no second stop (most cars do) until door swings to end. I find 11” a tad tight, and having to hold the door so it doesn’t whack the car next to me a minor irritant, and when door is fully extended door handle is a tough reach. By replacing door check with a 2011 to 2015 Jetta door check provides a stop at a width of 13”, another stop at 22” and then the last when door fully opens. For comparison, a 3 Series BMW has a stop at 16” and 24”. Although the replacement door check is shorter the door opens wide enough.
The existing part number 5GM 837 249 is used for both 2 and 4 doors, so this will work on both two and four doors. The initial write up is on a two door and I did on a four door.
Parts: The original author used the front door check from a 2011 to 2014 Jetta 5C6837249B. For my project I used the rear door check from a 2011 to 2014 Jetta part number 5C6839249B. Why did I use a rear instead of a front? The reality is I “messed” up and ordered the wrong part as they look quite similar. However, when I look at pictures of Jetta front and rear it appears that the first stop position provides a wider distance using the rear check stop. Per my eyeball will likely get a similar first stop position using the front stop. The measurements provided above therefore apply to a rear 2011 to 2014 Jetta rear stop check.
So I ordered the check-stop part number 5C6839249 for $15 shipped off of eBay. Note that the part is often mislabeled on eBay as 5C6839267 which is actually the rubber cover where the part number is displayed. Purchased a hand riveter from Harbor Freight for $6. The rivets were not long enough so another $6 at Home Depot for 3/16” width with a coverage depth of ¼”. I had a few 7L6868243 door panel clips around. I usually break two or three when panel is removed.
Note: If you use a front door the stop distance measurements will likely be different then my measurements.
Process: Door panel removal courtesy of inc55 is covered here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17907 I usually support bottom of panel with an appropriate sized box, and removed enough connectors to slide panel back and get enough clearance to drill out the four rivets holding the speaker. I started with a fairly small like 1/8” drill bit and went to 3/16”. You may have to chisel the rivet at the edge to get it completely off. Hardest part of the job is done.
Remove the bolt in frame with a 50mm Torx bit which works, but the proper tool is a 10mm triple square (12 points) and the two door screws with a 30mm Torx. Fish the door check out through speaker hole. Replace the check stop. When installing the bend should face you and the rubber back cover is marked with top left or top right depending on side placed on. Per repair manual Torques are to 30 Nm (22 ft lbs) and two smaller bolts to 9 Nm (6.6 ft lbs). Pop rivet the speaker back on. Put everything back together and enjoy.
Note: You can dremel the second stop, but you likely need to still remove door check in order to have sufficient clearance from the door and the first stop will still be at 11” vice 13”.
Impressions: One of my favorite mods as it is used all the time. The stops are at just the right distance vice too narrow or non-existent. The car should have come this way.
Attached Images
Attachments
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