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Dead battery after 18k, symptom ?

KASPER1

KASPER1

Go Kart Champion
Location
AMONGST U
Hear ya, I've been thinking too. But I'd look elsewhere than optima. But I'm biased, I threw 4 of those in, 4 years in a row on my mustang. Mainly cause it's mounted in the trunk and I didn't want to drill a whole in my trunk to run a vent tube for a lead acid battery, eventually I just stuck a oem ford unit back in it and had better luck, but that's just my experience, but figured I'd share.

Optima apparently isn't what they used to be, from what I've read recently also. For the $$ I'd advise ya to look elsewhere honestly, at least do some research, you'll see what I mean. They USED to be the shit, but more recently they seem to just be overpriced shit.

But... I'm admittedly biased and have done allot of research about them as I had such bad luck with them and just horrible customer service, just my 2cents
 
GTI Jake

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I've heard both good and bad on them, but personally I've had great luck.

My 12V Dodge Cummins, being more of a toy than anything sat in my driveway 95% of the time over the last several years. Even with only driving it 1,500-3,000 miles per year it never once failed to start, and I never charged it or did any preventative maintenance to keep it up in the sometimes months between starts.

On the other end of the spectrum my wife drives a RHD 4.0 Cherokee for her postal route. It's very hot in SC and she's very hard on it (gets about 9 mpg and regularly boils brake fluid). Even with sometimes 100* outside temperatures and very hot under hood temps it's never missed a beat even with starting and stopping all day.

Both the Cummins and Jeep have Optima Red Tops, and I got both 20% off with Advanced Auto ($30 or so more than their sticker price on the house brand)

I still need to look into what it'll take to make it fit properly and still have the minimum CCA. From what I've seen online the correct size is just under what's recommended. Personally I'd prefer to go up above factory spec for CCA if possible. I can post what I find if I get it sorted out
 
KASPER1

KASPER1

Go Kart Champion
Location
AMONGST U
Please do so, I always love real world/people info/experiences. Always analyzing/over analyzing.

I can, will say, it is a ford, that may very well be the problem :)
 
N

nate704

Go Kart Champion
Location
Virginia
I hook up my CTEK battery conditioner every 2-3 days overnight and weekend when we drive our family SUV. My battery SOC never go below 80% all the time.

I set up my garage and battery terminal with the quick disconnect setup, so it takes 5 seconds to do the connection.

I am pretty sure that my battery will last at least 4-5 years.
 
Golf R1

Golf R1

Ready to race!
Location
Tampa Bay
2016 with 15K miles, just replaced my fob battery after the warning started popping up on the display. The car battery is fine. I park in the garage, unlocked, fob kept inside within communication range. Would be very surprising if the engineers allowed common use to pose a problem with battery longevity. Time will tell.......
 
bebersol

bebersol

Ready to race!
Location
North Texas
Rodcollier said:
I came out of work yesterday to a dead battery in my R, and it only has 18k miles. I don't think I left the ignition on all day ( possible double hit of on/off switch? ) but there is no way for me to be certain.

Furthermore, after getting a jump start and driving it for 45 minutes it would NOT start after I turned it off. I borrowed a trickle charger and left it on all night and it was no help. I took out the battery and had it tested and it was dead, so I bought a replacement at my local auto parts store. Car seems fine now after a day but I'm concerned I still don't know the root cause, and I've never had a battery suddenly die.

Any thoughts on if there is a way to test if I still have an issue or should I just take it to a dealer and explain?

I hate taking it to a dealer since I'll need to remove my tune and pull my JB4 and intake ...

Oh ya, be careful where you store your jumper cables. When your battery doesn't have a charge, it's a real pain to get into the car doors / hatch / storage area. :(


'16 MK7 R Manual
Uni 2, JB4, DP, CTS
Click to expand...

sounds like you got a crap battery, was it a VARTA?

I switched to an AGM, smaller format and handles vibration better. .

Also on the drivers door handle you should be able to pop off the plastic that covers the stationary of the handle, there is a keyhole you key will work in. look at the underneath of the plastic piece for a gap to pry it off.

FYI I took a business trip about 1 week after i got my new R. The battery in my keyfob was dead when I returned. Luckily a TSA agent had a VW and told me what to look for..
 
bebersol

bebersol

Ready to race!
Location
North Texas
nate704 said:
It depends on which dealer you go to and different situation can occur. Let's say you remove the tune and JB4 and intake, and you bring the car in for battery replacement.
you dealer covers it under warranty.
It's all good isn't it?
what if your dealer/tech decided to do "courtesy" system check up/ update, and there's your TD1 flag.
My Audi Q5 needs coding after battery replacement and full system scan/update with their device.
I am sure you took the risk of being flagged when you got your tune, so you already knew the risks.
Click to expand...
you can reset the code for the dead battery from your display
 
G

Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
bebersol said:
sounds like you got a crap battery, was it a VARTA?

I switched to an AGM, smaller format and handles vibration better. .

Also on the drivers door handle you should be able to pop off the plastic that covers the stationary of the handle, there is a keyhole you key will work in. look at the underneath of the plastic piece for a gap to pry it off.

FYI I took a business trip about 1 week after i got my new R. The battery in my keyfob was dead when I returned. Luckily a TSA agent had a VW and told me what to look for..
Click to expand...



Do you have the group # or part # of the AGM battery and where you bought it? Thanks much [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
C

Chad1140

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Columbia, SC
GM, Ford, pretty much all well equipped vehicles I have had get no more than a year to a year and a half off of a stocker battery. There is just more electronics and it goes at an exponential rate, where even a car from 3 years ago has no where near as much going on as your most recent "loaded" vehicle.
 
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