Preventative Maintenance Questions

Back in December I picked up a slightly previously loved 16 R with 17K KM on it. What I am looking for and cant seem to find is a preventative maintenance guide.

Yes I have read the owners manual.
No I will not be following the 15K KM oil change interval, just did my 7.5k change last week.

So a bit of my background. I am 35 and this is my 1st gas car as my primary car.
Been driving my own car since I was 17 and started out in an 87 TD Jetta and have always had a VW TD/TDI of some sorts (MKII/IV/V), with my last car being an 09 TDI Wagon. So I am familiar with VAG cars.
Its the ignition system, I really lack knowledge on coming from a diesel background.
What do I realistically need to do?

Anything special I can do to keep this car mechanically sound?
I have heard catch cans are more hype than they are worth, with a proper valve cleaning still required from time to time.
Not to mention they are not good for winters, and I do live in Canada.

Haldex interval, is 40K really what the car needs, or should this been sooner?
How often should I be looking to properly clean the valves of carbon buildup?

So basically I know VW says one thing, but the reality is if you treat your car right it will treat you right.
I am looking how to properly treaty her right.
A tune might be in the future, but I am happy with it right now, and will upgrade the clutch before an ECU flash.

So right now, mods will be simple things like the usual VCDS tweaks.
The spring removal (done) from the clutch petal, and once the weather warms up my diesel geek short shifter is going on this car.
The delay valve might get removed, need a little more research as if its going to shorten the dual mass clutch life or not.

Thanks in advance for any life prolonging tips you guys can give.

1) If you haven't had it inspected by an independent mechanic yet, you might want to consider that just for peace of mind
2) Change cabin filter and air filter (premature, but why not since cheap)
3) Buy an OBD Eleven pro and scan your car for faults
4) If you plan on tracking or autocrossing your car occasionally, a catch can may make sense; otherwise no. Carbon buildup is inevitable, a catch can only delays the need for a carbon cleaning.
5) The forum has a lot of enthusiasts (obviously) so most maintenance schedules you will see here are pushed early. I did my Haldex at 29,000 miles but the fluid was so clean I will wait until the recommended interval next time. I change oil at 7,500 and switch between Motul, Liqui Moly and Valvoline OEM. The car has a top mounted oil filter so get an oil extractor and do the oil changes yourself. Super easy.
6) Some people mod right away, but since you seem willing to wait, I suggest that you get to know your car first at stock for a while (especially since it is used) and then decide what you think needs "fixin". I have done a ton of cosmetic mods but am waiting until my bumper to bumper is expired before doing any performance mods.

Congratulations! It is a really fun car to drive.

The front and rear differential fluid change is not listed in VW's maintenance plan.

There is a good thread on the fluid changes here

@MDLBC
1: Done
2: 100% agree, with the oil.
3: Own a VCDS, its betterIMHO
4: Anyone had buildup issues yet? I know is going to happen with direct injection, just wondering if we know yet when we have to deal with it before it becomes an issue.
5: Early Maintenance is a good thing, and Oil on this is pretty much the same as every VW TDI I have had. Nice to hear that the Haldex oil was still good for so long.
6: Only had the summer tires on the day I brought her home and they did not do well on ice. As fun as snow and winters are, I know the car has a lot more to give, but I still miss the torque of my tuned TDI.

Thanks for the insight.

@Snitt
Thanks for the link. Been trying to avoid the vortex, but it seems its needed with this car. More used to the vibe at tdiclub.

It's not maintenance, but instead of warming up my car by letting it idle for a while, I drive upon startup strictly staying at low rpms until oil temps are up. My two cents.

JaY_III said:

@MDLBC
1: Done
2: 100% agree, with the oil.
3: Own a VCDS, its betterIMHO
4: Anyone had buildup issues yet? I know is going to happen with direct injection, just wondering if we know yet when we have to deal with it before it becomes an issue.
5: Early Maintenance is a good thing, and Oil on this is pretty much the same as every VW TDI I have had. Nice to hear that the Haldex oil was still good for so long.
6: Only had the summer tires on the day I brought her home and they did not do well on ice. As fun as snow and winters are, I know the car has a lot more to give, but I still miss the torque of my tuned TDI.

Thanks for the insight.

@Snitt
Thanks for the link. Been trying to avoid the vortex, but it seems its needed with this car. More used to the vibe at tdiclub.

Click to expand...

Agreed. Finding stuff on that site can be a nightmare, and people like to measure their wieners against each other a lot. I like the atmosphere of this site a lot better and use it whenever I can.

We now know that the simple Haldex fluid change that VW calls for is inadequate.

There is a plastic filter screen on the nose of the Haldex pump that picks up wear product from the clutches, forming a horrible black sludge and gradually blocking oil flow. Pulling the pump and manually cleaning off this screen is easy, but not only does VW not call for doing so as part of the scheduled Haldex service, most dealers deny that this filter screen even exists.

Here's one thread about it: http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/24283-and-the-filthiest-haldex-filter-award-goes-to/?page=1
And a cautionary pic (not mine):



I plan to DIY service mine in the next month or so, before 20K miles.

Neil

NCM said:

There is a plastic filter screen on the nose of the Haldex pump that picks up wear product from the clutches, forming a horrible black sludge and gradually blocking oil flow.

Neil

Click to expand...

Just as an FYI, the Haldex threads had me all freaked out so I changed the fluid at 29,000 miles. I removed the filter housing and both the filter and the oil itself were pristine:



I can only hypothesize, but I am guessing that since I live in SoCal my Haldex engages far less frequently than someone who lives where there is more inclement weather and therefore the Haldex gets more use/wear and tear. I always perform maintenance items well before manufacturer’s recommendations but I probably could have waited another year before I serviced the Haldex. Technically it is time based, not mileage, but even I couldn’t wait three years to do the service. I’m still torn if I’ll ever do the differential’s. I’ll certainly wait until 80,000.

MDLBC said:

Just as an FYI, the Haldex threads had me all freaked out so I changed the fluid at 29,000 miles. I removed the filter housing and both the filter and the oil itself were pristine:

I can only hypothesize, but I am guessing that since I live in SoCal my Haldex engages far less frequently than someone who lives where there is more inclement weather and therefore the Haldex gets more use/wear and tear.

Click to expand...

A reasonable hypothesis. Here in the Midwest we get enough rain and snow that my Haldex gets a decent workout. I'm not expecting the clear fluid and clean filter screen of yours.

In contrast, the sludge photo I posted above is from an R in England with only 16K miles.

Neil

NCM said:

We now know that the simple Haldex fluid change that VW calls for is inadequate.

There is a plastic filter screen on the nose of the Haldex pump that picks up wear product from the clutches, forming a horrible black sludge and gradually blocking oil flow. Pulling the pump and manually cleaning off this screen is easy, but not only does VW not call for doing so as part of the scheduled Haldex service, most dealers deny that this filter screen even exists.

Here's one thread about it: http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/24283-and-the-filthiest-haldex-filter-award-goes-to/?page=1
And a cautionary pic (not mine):

I plan to DIY service mine in the next month or so, before 20K miles.

Neil

Click to expand...

The pump doesn't "kick in". It's always active to maintain something like 450 PSI in the hydraulic system. A valve opens and closes as needed to provide pressure to close the clutch pack, so has a valve or solenoid problem if he's getting harsh engagement.

The Fed said:

The pump doesn't "kick in". It's always active to maintain something like 450 PSI in the hydraulic system. A valve opens and closes as needed to provide pressure to close the clutch pack, so has a valve or solenoid problem if he's getting harsh engagement.

Click to expand...

I'm aware of that. However if the filter screen is blocked enough to prevent adequate fluid flow you can't expect proper clutch actuation. I've also seen one reported case of electric pump failure that included a heavily blocked filter screen. While correlation does not necessarily mean causality — the electric pump could simply have failed the way stuff does — neither is it excluded.

The preventive maintenance bottom line is the same either way: perform whatever level of service your usage dictates to keep the screen unblocked, and don't believe the dealer when they tell you there's no need/no screen.

Neil

Wow that is night and day between the two cars Haldex fluid...
My AWD has 100% been used winter driving up here. Might need to have a look myself once the weather warms up.

Is there a DIY write up for changing the haldex fluid?

rustywoodstone said:

Is there a DIY write up for changing the haldex fluid?

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I found this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8908177-MK7-Haldex-Fluid-Change-DIY
While searching myself.
Fluid is also a little on the pricey side, makes engine oil seem very cheap.

JaY_III said:

Fluid is also a little on the pricey side, makes engine oil seem very cheap.

Click to expand...

Fortunately you only need 1 bottle of the stuff.
But no substitutions allowed!

Neil