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Old 05-09-2017, 11:19 PM   #86
Quebster
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upgrade rotors?

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Originally Posted by GolfArrr View Post
Awesome feedback. Thanks for sharing with us!

Was the white powder just on the pads/backing plates when you took them off? My GLocs did this the first time out as well, after that nothing and they simply look the same old shade of ugly (but work well).

Did you remove your dust shields as well from the front brakes? I've been thinking of doing this when I add some ducting as you've done.
Yeah, it was just on the backing plate, around the edges, and around the outer edges of the rotor itself (kind of where the "vanes" are).. like a powder.

Yes I removed the shields on the front brakes for better ventilation, and I taped the ABS sensors with some heat-resistant "tape" just to be safe. I probably could've used more.

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Old 05-10-2017, 01:37 AM   #87
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that would be easy however I would think that would trick the system and never display the brake wear warning? What about fixing it back to stock. Guess I could find a connector and remake it?

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If I were you I'd pull that rubber boot off and use some cutting pliers to get a clean cut and assess how difficult it would be to strip both of the leads and close the loop. If this side of the plug is anything like the other side then it should be a pretty easy task - don't fret.
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:02 AM   #88
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I am really just having a hard time choosing a pad. Options are much more limited for the non PP cars with the 312mm rotor.
Couldn't agree more!!!
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:29 PM   #89
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What's good brake rotors/pads for DD GTI PP with APR Stage 1 HO? I do drive aggressive and brake hard as well. I am at 25k miles, have about between 10mm left of the brake pads. My god, the OEM pads do dust badly!

No track days or autox!
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:18 PM   #90
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I'm going to do something similar. These brakes get hot! I've melted the boots, caliper paint has faded and brake pedal gets soft after 20 mins on track. May start to look into fabricating something that brings air to the rotors with tubes. May also switch to slotted rotors to see if that helps.

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Yeah, it was just on the backing plate, around the edges, and around the outer edges of the rotor itself (kind of where the "vanes" are).. like a powder.

Yes I removed the shields on the front brakes for better ventilation, and I taped the ABS sensors with some heat-resistant "tape" just to be safe. I probably could've used more.

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Old 06-17-2017, 10:06 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by Norsk View Post
What's good brake rotors/pads for DD GTI PP with APR Stage 1 HO? I do drive aggressive and brake hard as well. I am at 25k miles, have about between 10mm left of the brake pads. My god, the OEM pads do dust badly!

No track days or autox!
You'd probably be good with something like EBC Reds for pads, and pretty much anything for rotors.

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I'm going to do something similar. These brakes get hot! I've melted the boots, caliper paint has faded and brake pedal gets soft after 20 mins on track. May start to look into fabricating something that brings air to the rotors with tubes. May also switch to slotted rotors to see if that helps.
They do get hot, the blasted single-caliper design... They performed very well for me last weekend though, but we ran the track clockwise which isn't QUITE as fast as counter clockwise... but still fast enough. I was pretty happy with them.

Melted the boots though? Sheesh! What brake fluid are you using? And are you on PP brakes at least?
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:58 AM   #92
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Yes its an R. SPF fluid, dust shield removed, SS lines, Carbotech XP10's all around and centric rotors and add the Audi directional air ducts.

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You'd probably be good with something like EBC Reds for pads, and pretty much anything for rotors.



They do get hot, the blasted single-caliper design... They performed very well for me last weekend though, but we ran the track clockwise which isn't QUITE as fast as counter clockwise... but still fast enough. I was pretty happy with them.

Melted the boots though? Sheesh! What brake fluid are you using? And are you on PP brakes at least?
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:43 AM   #93
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Yes its an R. SPF fluid, dust shield removed, SS lines, Carbotech XP10's all around and centric rotors and add the Audi directional air ducts.


Wow! I'm assuming you're tuned as well


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Old 06-18-2017, 05:08 PM   #94
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nope. everything else is stock. running R888R's. I'm hard on brakes. This is my DD but I'm tracking it for fun and run some chase races while my race car is in the shop.

Going to try some different stuff and see what happens to lap times. Will start with rear sway bar, then front, then who knows.

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Wow! I'm assuming you're tuned as well


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Old 06-19-2017, 07:03 PM   #95
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something like this would be cool but SUPER expensive



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Old 06-21-2017, 11:24 AM   #96
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Love me some brake talk.

Curious if anyone has ran the ED 2-piece rotors?

https://www.emmanueledesign.com/coll...ant=6997049729

Initial cost is always high on floaters but once you have the hats all you have to replace is the rings.

I want them, but I know I need a clutch, intercooler, not to be murdered by the wife lol.

I'll probably run Ferodos when the time comes for pads, <3 Ferodos
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:16 PM   #97
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look great but hard to justify for a DD

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Originally Posted by steddy2112 View Post
Love me some brake talk.

Curious if anyone has ran the ED 2-piece rotors?

https://www.emmanueledesign.com/coll...ant=6997049729

Initial cost is always high on floaters but once you have the hats all you have to replace is the rings.

I want them, but I know I need a clutch, intercooler, not to be murdered by the wife lol.

I'll probably run Ferodos when the time comes for pads, <3 Ferodos
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:36 PM   #98
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Why are they hard to justify?

I mean if all you're looking at is how they look then yeah, lol, spend your money on something else, but floating rotors are a fantastic upgrade and cheaper than say going to a bling bling monobloc caliper.

Like I said initially they cost a decent amount but you also lose a couple lbs, they're directionally vaned, slots to help out with off gassing/pad buildup, not to mention they handle abuse like no other. You get a significant less amount of wheel tug on trail braking. The rings/rotor shouldn't run any more than 300-500 for a set and the lock nuts for the hats are not expensive at all.

There's more to gain IMO from running a stock caliper and a good set of floating rotors than going with a fixed rotor and 4-piston or uber overkill 6-piston caliper.

As long as you don't go with a set of drilled rotors, a good aftermarket vaned/floating rotor should last longer than a stock style fixed rotor.

Heat kills rotors most of the time not thickness.
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Old 06-21-2017, 04:08 PM   #99
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because of the cost. Again for a DD

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Why are they hard to justify?

I mean if all you're looking at is how they look then yeah, lol, spend your money on something else, but floating rotors are a fantastic upgrade and cheaper than say going to a bling bling monobloc caliper.

Like I said initially they cost a decent amount but you also lose a couple lbs, they're directionally vaned, slots to help out with off gassing/pad buildup, not to mention they handle abuse like no other. You get a significant less amount of wheel tug on trail braking. The rings/rotor shouldn't run any more than 300-500 for a set and the lock nuts for the hats are not expensive at all.

There's more to gain IMO from running a stock caliper and a good set of floating rotors than going with a fixed rotor and 4-piston or uber overkill 6-piston caliper.

As long as you don't go with a set of drilled rotors, a good aftermarket vaned/floating rotor should last longer than a stock style fixed rotor.

Heat kills rotors most of the time not thickness.
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