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Old 08-06-2017, 10:10 PM   #1
CLDUCK
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Oil temperatures - Can I control them better?

Good evening

I write this having had my 2.0tdi DSG from new for 6 months now, having racked up 12.5k miles with most of them at high speed

My concern is firstly to prolong the life of the engine and its components by bringing down running oil temperatures from around 116*C to 110* or less. Not including DPF regens...
Secondly, gain more knowledge of wether my driving habits to take a chill for the benefit of myself, others and the car.

And finally, if a modification cannot be made, would half interval oil changes be the best route to take.

Many thanks for your kind words in advance
Connor
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:28 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLDUCK View Post
And finally, if a modification cannot be made, would half interval oil changes be the best route to take.
this ^^
Use VW 507 00 Shell Helix Ultra Professional 0W-30 or similar and swap it more frequently.
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:58 AM   #3
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Besides the half interval oil changes, you could try this:

https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...IaAm6aEALw_wcB

Features:
Cast Alloy Construction
Baffling
Increases Oil Capacity
Cooling Fins
Lower Oil Temperatures 8-15 Degrees C Lower
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:17 AM   #4
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Could also add an oil cooler and mount radiator in front of OE unit.
Larger oil pan shown adds 1L more oil so this also helps.
Add fined oil filter housing. Not sure on help but will not hurt.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:28 AM   #5
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The VR6s run 115-120 degrees on the oil in the summer at high speed too. Modern oils can cope.


...if it creaks, it's probably made by VAG
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
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The VR6s run 115-120 degrees on the oil in the summer at high speed too. Modern oils can cope.

Yeah my friend has a VR6 in a Bora and he see's temperatures similar

The oil can certainly take it, its just if I can rein it in a bit it would help when I dont have the time or distance to allow the oil to cool to working temp before switching off.

It's not a massive concern but with the mileage I do, I know for sure I'm going to have to hang onto the car and look after it the best I can
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jose_Gti View Post
Besides the half interval oil changes, you could try this:
He's got a Euro spec TDI.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jose_Gti View Post
Lower Oil Temperatures 8-15 Degrees C Lower
I strongly doubt it lower oil temp by "8 to 15 C".

You don't even want that. Modern engines are designed to run at increased
oil temps (100 C and above). This ensures that water and (Diesel and even
more so canola methyl ester) fuel are boiling out, partly at least. If the oil
doesn't get that hot the fuel, particularly CME, is accumulating in the motor
oil, inevitably causing residues, oil detoriation and affecting lubrication.

These engines are designed that way for a reason!


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Old 08-07-2017, 11:01 AM   #8
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Oil temperatures - Can I control them better?

Forget this
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:48 AM   #9
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The oil won't cool much on idle; if you're lucky it will drop to approx 100, i.e. the water temp you inevitably get while idling. All you really need to do is let the turbo spin down before shutting off the engine, and frankly unless you park like an idiot chances are you'll struggle to prevent that happening..!


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Old 08-07-2017, 02:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breaking badly View Post
He's got a Euro spec TDI.



I strongly doubt it lower oil temp by "8 to 15 C".

You don't even want that. Modern engines are designed to run at increased
oil temps (100 C and above). This ensures that water and (Diesel and even
more so canola methyl ester) fuel are boiling out, partly at least. If the oil
doesn't get that hot the fuel, particularly CME, is accumulating in the motor
oil, inevitably causing residues, oil detoriation and affecting lubrication.

These engines are designed that way for a reason!


.
Very good points sir (I didn't even realize it's a diesel). Still I would like to try that pan to see how it works, the plastic one looks super cheap.
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:47 PM   #11
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I'd almost bet the EA288 TDI engines still got aluminium pans, for acoustical reasons at least.

Granted, I'd wish the EA888 3G got an aluminium pan, however the plastic pan isn't that bad.
Just the lower half is PA (while the upper half is aluminium) and it's got a very high glass-fibre
content. I wouldn't worry about its reliability as I wouldn't about oil temps on a TDI.
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:53 PM   #12
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Mine is alloy on the ea288


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Old 08-11-2017, 11:30 AM   #13
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Things are looking well
Driven 270miles over 5 hours in bad traffic and happy to report that temps are lower following a DPF regen the other day


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Old 08-25-2017, 07:23 PM   #14
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Mine runs at 216 Fahrenheit, (roughly 102C) so it seems pretty spot on. Would running cooler oil help your engine that much? I try not to boost until I am at least 180F (82C) so cooling oil temps 15C as claimed by the finned oil pan would put me at roughly 157F (69C). I've always been told by enthusiasts to wait until normal operating temps to boost and drive hard, are these lower temps sufficient for boost?
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:25 PM   #15
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Again, I promise you that alu pan won't lower oil temp down to 157F/69C.
Actually they claim to lower oil temp by "8 to 15 C", though even this is hard
to believe. That said, oil temps lower that 100C aren't even desirable. You'd
want both water and fuel to boil out on your daily commutes.
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Old 08-26-2017, 04:42 PM   #16
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Additionally, the thermostat controls the temperature in ways we can't control, really.

If you get an oil pan with dramatically improved cooling, it's just going to stay closed longer as the oil takes longer to heat up. But once it opens, up the coolant flow is whats going to dramatically cool the engine. It shoots for at least 212 degrees to boil off any water, and usually won't open back up until 225ish.

Where the big, finned pans excell is on a track when oil temperatures can get up above 250. This gives the engine another small cooling bump, taking some of the load off of the coolant system.

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Old 08-30-2017, 07:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breaking badly View Post
Again, I promise you that alu pan won't lower oil temp down to 157F/69C.
Actually they claim to lower oil temp by "8 to 15 C", though even this is hard
to believe. That said, oil temps lower that 100C aren't even desirable. You'd
want both water and fuel to boil out on your daily commutes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Kenneth Noisewater View Post
Additionally, the thermostat controls the temperature in ways we can't control, really.

If you get an oil pan with dramatically improved cooling, it's just going to stay closed longer as the oil takes longer to heat up. But once it opens, up the coolant flow is whats going to dramatically cool the engine. It shoots for at least 212 degrees to boil off any water, and usually won't open back up until 225ish.

Where the big, finned pans excel is on a track when oil temperatures can get up above 250. This gives the engine another small cooling bump, taking some of the load off of the coolant system.

Agreed with both comments.

I have the Wortec pan.
Around town, I see no change in the eventual top oil temp of 217 to 221 F (102 to 105 C). Maybe it takes a bit longer to get there, but I really don't know that to be the case.
At the track, I'm seeing about 5 to 7 F decrease in top oil temps. 262 vs 268 F, or 258 vs 265 F, for example. The other thing I see at the track is that the recovery back down to 217 F or so is a bit quicker than before.
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