So many of you have probably seen SomethingNew71's guide on these forums. It's a good guide and I followed the same general procedures. Running the power cable across the front of head-liner where it meets the windshield, across the a-pillar, and down the weather stripping to the fuse box. That guide is located here:
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10375&highlight=dash+cam
However thought I would outline a few tweaks/tricks on the install. In case anyone wants to know, I used the a119 camera sold here on Amazon. Best bang for the buck around $100.
https://www.amazon.com/SpyTec-A119-...8&qid=1484627196&sr=8-1&keywords=spy+tec+a119
Here is a link for the fuse box PDF of our NAR MK7 GTIs -
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7m7wc8rdjxjhutf/2016 MK7 GTI Fuse Panel Guide.pdf?dl=0
Alternatively, you can remove the a-pillar trim, run the cable down the wiring harness and zip tie in place. This is what I eventually did when I fixed my a-pillar rattle and had it off anyway. That DIY is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=480175
1.
I did not run the wire across the air bag in the a-pillar.
I think this is a bad idea and I've seen many people post that they did it. I ran it
behind the airbag in order to cross the a-pillar at the top right where it meets the windshield.
• I popped open the top of the a-pillar and put enough pressure on it until the top clip popped out to the security catch it has. This was enough room to do what I needed to do.
• I shimmied a trim tool behind the airbag, between the car body and the airbag, and then put SLIGHT pressure on the airbag. I observed that I could easily fish the USB power cable up through and to the headliner where it meets the a-pillar. I believe this is a much better/safer solution than running across the airbag.
2. I bought a much better 12v plug for about the same price. Surprisingly, at RadioShack. The connections on it are far more robust and safe and it looks and feels like a legit product. It also has a rubber cap if you decide to uninstall the dash cam and want to leave the plug there.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-12vdc-car-power-accessory-outlet
The 12v plug from Amazon outlined in the other DIY was absolute junk. I was appalled. I ordered 2 and both were defective, and almost fell completely apart on me when I was wiring them up. I don't think these are safe products and I will never put them in my cars.
3. I wired in to switched power at the fuse box using an ATO size Add-A-Circuit. I got that part here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JU4K76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cam will power on when I put the car into accessory mode or start it. For dash cams that have parking mode this won't work. I chose not to utilize parking mode at this time. I have outlined how to switch the fuse to always-on power in the image in the event you need that.
***NOTE*** Initially I had wired to fuse 37, the last 10a fuse on the bottom row, this was for the left DRL and parking light control modules. These feedback into the BCM. The BCM controls the KESSY transponder and this was causing intermittent Key Not Found errors in the car due to apparent voltage dip. If you don't have KESSY, you can wire to fuse 37, it's working fine in my wife's non-KESSY MK7.
4. Grounding: Ground to the large bolt visible from the side panel, I believe it was 14mm.
Link to Scosche dual USB charger.
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-USBC...484626998&sr=8-3&keywords=scosche+car+charger
Anker and Aukey also make well reviewed, and great, thoroughly tested products. I used this Scosche one because its a top rated product and was also thoroughly reviewed on The Wirecutter, who found it to be one of the best they tested.
