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Clubsport S Swivels Installed

Location
St. Olaf
Wavetrac seems to have some advantages over Peloquin and Quaife, which are Torsen only,
though they're all huge improvements over any open diff. I don't think LSDs and XDS do impair
in any noticeable kind, but I'd set XDS (as well as brake assist) to the weakest (and the least
intrusive) setting using VCDS. If in doubt have a read on Mk.6 GTI.com for plenty experiences.

Sorry, this is slightly off-tropic. ;)
 

A3SBQ

Ready to race!
Location
Norway
Ok guys.
I am back with the "finished" results.
Need to go back later for a small realignment
because the time ran out.

For reference I am running stock OEM springs and DCC dampers.

First I can happily report back that the
Audi aluminum subframe fits perfectly together
with the SuperPro supalloy LCA (007K)

I have also installed the Clubsport S swivels and TT bearings
H&R anti roll bar front and rear
SuperPro Bushings in the rear suspension

I get -1.7 degrees of camber at the front. Need to move the subframe a bit.
(Have -2 left and -1.4 right)
Caster is 8,3 left and 8,5 right
Toe is 0.05 left and 0.00 right.

At the rear I have set camber to -2.02 left and right.
Toe is a bit widened to 0.03 left and 0.05 right. (Pointing out)

Heading to the track tomorrow. So excited to see/feel the difference.

Old values with stock suspension was:

Front:
Camber -1.00 left and -1.11 right
Caster was 7.24 left and 7.44 right
Toe was 0.08 left and 0.07 right. (Pointing inn)

Rear:
Camber was -1.33 left and -1.35 right.
Toe was 0.12 left and 0.04 right (Pointing inn)
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
Troubles continue:




As you can see, the bracket has broken loose from the (driver's side) shock body. It appears one of the welds gave way cleanly, and then the bracket fatigued until it broke. Bilstein has a good warranty, so hopefully this will be resolved quickly. The strut has been on the car since April.

I have a Eurocode FSB set to the middle adjustment hole on both sides.

My local car shop tells me that they have seen at least three other instances of this bracket breaking (not all Bilsteins), so perhaps the beefy FSB is putting too much shear loading on the bracket.

You can also see an issue with the SuperPro sway bar links in that the dust boots do not stay in place. I've had this problem on both sides. I've reseated the seals only to have them come adrift again.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
So with a LSD ex wavetrac or other.
What would you recommend and will it interfere with the XDS+ system? Have been thinking over the LSD since my last car but never took the plunge...

It won't adversely interfere with the XDS+ or any other systems.
What you are doing is removing the existing open diff in the diff case & replacing it with a mechanical LSD which fits in the same place.

Because it controls, the power/torque transfer to the wheels before any other existing devices (eg Haldex units or ABS sensors as used for XDS+) then it actually put less strain on those devices which are further down the drivetrain from the engine.

You may find that those existing devices are "used" way less.

If in UK I would say Quaife...in USA reading reports people go for the Peloquin as its gear based...but its down to personal preference

Quote from Quaifes website:-

""Fully compatible with manufacturer electronic traction control and anti-lock braking systems, the Quaife ATB differential offers a number of key advantages in both functionality and service life compared to conventional plate-style LSD units.
Silent in operation (even during low-speed parking manoeuvres) the Quaife ATB limited slip unit never ‘locks,’ making it progressive, safe and user friendly. Unlike plate-style LSD designs there are no clutches, ramps, springs or other wear prone components to replace at regular intervals, because the Quaife ATB’s well-proven system of helical gears is extremely durable, plus it’s designed to use standard transmission oils.
This makes the Quaife ATB limited slip differential a genuine ‘fit and forget’ upgrade that offers compromise-free performance and unbeatable reliability on the street, strip, stage or circuit, ""
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
My local car shop tells me that they have seen at least three other instances of this bracket breaking (not all Bilsteins), so perhaps the beefy FSB is putting too much shear loading on the bracket.

....OR, more than likely, your adjustable endlinks weren't set up properly with too much preload
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
....OR, more than likely, your adjustable endlinks weren't set up properly with too much preload

Could you explain by what you mean by preload? The endlinks were adjusted so that the sway bar would not make contact with the LCA or (right side) axle. There was nearly no twist to the bar in a static position. I say nearly no twist because it was necessary to have a very slight twist so that the sway bar would not make contact throughout the suspension motion.
 
Location
St. Olaf
Probably "adjusted too long"?

Did the FSB perhaps hit the LCA? This would put excessive stress onto the links and brackets.
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
Probably "adjusted too long"?

Did the FSB perhaps hit the LCA? This would put excessive stress onto the links and brackets.

There was some evidence of contact on the driver's side when initially installed. Hard to tell how hard, but there was a mark on the LCA. There was also evidence on the right side axle of contact. Both were corrected shortly after install. So yes, there was contact on both side initially. The adjustment is very sensitive; there isn't much room.
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
My local shop (NGP Racing in Lorton VA) welded the bracket back onto the strut. No photo, but it looks just like new. I also moved the FSB endlink mount to the front (softest) hole in an attempt to lessen the loading on the bracket.

I did two track days last weekend and everything held together. Not unexpectedly, there was a little less understeer due to the softer FSB setting.
 

Pound

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto, Canada
My local shop (NGP Racing in Lorton VA) welded the bracket back onto the strut. No photo, but it looks just like new. I also moved the FSB endlink mount to the front (softest) hole in an attempt to lessen the loading on the bracket.

I did two track days last weekend and everything held together. Not unexpectedly, there was a little less understeer due to the softer FSB setting.
FWIW I had the same issue with KW V3's and GC camber plates. Tab was hitting the body on large dips and long sweepers.


Sent from my LG-H915 using Tapatalk
 

LeGti

Ready to race!
Location
France
There was some evidence of contact on the driver's side when initially installed. Hard to tell how hard, but there was a mark on the LCA. There was also evidence on the right side axle of contact. Both were corrected shortly after install. So yes, there was contact on both side initially. The adjustment is very sensitive; there isn't much room.


Hi jmason;

Thanks for your thread!

I ran into the same problem as you when installing Spulen end links. As yourself I have the 6K SuperPro LCAs, which are of the original "max caster" design. Superpro now also offer the 7K version which provides less caster.

When I ran 235/40/18 Cup2 tires on 18x8 et 45 wheels, I also rubbed through the wheel liner at the 10 o'clock position (viewing left side of car).

My setup of 6K LCAs, and DG springs yields over 8° of caster at static ride height. Even on the soft setting of the SuperPro 26mm FSB installed on my car, the Spulen end links rubbed the driveshafts.

I reinstalled the thin OEM end links which barely clear the driveshaft. I also tried mounting them on the stiffer setting of the FSB, but it just isn't possible.

Soft position on the FSB brings the OEM end links' "body" very close to the driveshaft, while the larger Spulens (similar to your SPs) fouled on the shaft if on soft and simply could not be bolted to the hard position.

I followed Spulen's install instructions which mandated the links be set at OEM length. Is that the case with the SuperPro instructions?

So what's a brother to do? Perhaps adjusting our aftermarket end links to a shorter length than the OEMs, would provide clearance. I haven't tried it yet.

RJ is running 6K arms I believe, we should ask him about his front end links' lengths... Care to go first?

No doubt we'll get to the bottom of this...
Cheers,
Ben.
 
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