Audi aluminum subframe on Mk7 Gti

A3SBQ said:

Sub'd
What a great thread. Haven't seen this before. It should have been "sticky"
Do we have a list of part numbers for the new bolt? (install kit)
I am doing this install in maby two weeks with full SuperPro bushing and LCA kit. Clubsport S swivels and H&R ARB kit front and back.

Which SuperPro LCA did you guys get? The 007K or 006K?
I think the 006K has lesser caster to compensate the rubbing up front.
This is also what I have bought.
I am running BBK kombo of TTRS 4pot caliper with vagbremtechnic disc kit.
With stock Pretoria it needs minimum 4mm spacers. I am using 10mm now and I am concerned about rubbing on big caster increase.

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I'll see if I can get the part number for the bolts. They should be easy to find at an Audi dealership. It's listed in the same area as the subframe itself.

I'm running the 006K.

B95zP said:

Gotcha. I was impressed by the quality of the Tyrolsport kit when we installed it. I am waiting for him to put the rear set on sale.

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I think the Tyrolsport hardware is impressive. I like good hardware.
Is it needed, maybe not but it is interesting to me.
I understand how it works and when I was younger and a Maintenance Manager in manufacturing, worked with my Mechanics to perform similar mods on machines to help reinforce connection points because we needed better and stronger connection points to maintain machine alignments. This type of part will help in locations with high vibration or temperature changes that can cause parts to loosen. I am not a degreed Engineer so can not give the details most want on how it helps but in the end it helped what we needed.

I had planned to install but hesitated because I was not 100% sure it would not have a negative impact on alignment. I live 1.5 hours from VW dealer and the dealer is about the only choice I have for GTI alignment. The Firestone dealer said they could do it but after I questioned them on it, they came back with the recommendation that the VW dealer might be best choice. They said it would take a good bit of set up work for them to do.

I talked with my contact in the VW service in Chattanooga and there were two concerns they had. If the Tyrolsport kit was installed, it might limit the ability to adjust the lower frame should they need to do this when checking and setting the alignment after install. My fear is if the kit was installed and they could not get alignment in spec, I would have to live with it and risk tire wear issues, or have to pay them twice to then remove and do alignment again. The cost is not a big issue as I would pay it to see if it worked. With my recent LCA issues I did not want to take on another unknown project at the same time. I also did not want to come back again to the dealer if issues developed. The second item the dealer mentioned was that is the connections were improved, that if the car hit a pot hole, instead of being knocked out of alignment something might break. I can see this view and after hitting two pot holes and bending rim it might be an item to consider. But for me the weak link now is not the suspension as the tire/wheel looks to suffer the most from an impact. I will likely do one day, just have to decide when I want to take on.

If you have any alignment feedback after install I would appreciate hearing your thoughts and experience.

Though I should share this info here from another thread in the classified section. It's from another member. Thanks to PHXVWKING

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This part was sold to me last November. For reference it will work with the SuperPro arms but ONLY the 0006K part#, they should work with the 0095K# as I believe they are dimensionally the same as the 0006K but with a stiffer poly bushes.I have not checked as I don't own that one. It will NOT work with the 0007K part. They have offset rear bushings that move the aft mounting point inboard. This causes the arms to contact the subframe during Normal articulation. This could result in deformation of the subframe at the mounting point or more likely the subframe could break at that point resulting in possible loss of control of the car
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And
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The bolts securing the subframe to the chassis are the same. The bolts securing the control arms are longer. On the steel subframe there is a captured nut (welded in) that the bolts thread into. There is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread engagment in the steel nut. In the aluminum subframe the entire entire bolt hole is threaded and you must use the longer Audi hardware as aluminum is softer and the same force the bolt applies to the threads must be spread out over a larger area.
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Hi guys,

I am about to swap the audi subframe tomorrow but I can't seem to find the torque specs for the control arms the seem to be exactly the same as the steel subframe bolt witch is 70 nm + 180 degrees is this accurate?

I want to post a list with all the bolts regarding the subframe so please help

check this dude:

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18893

breaking badly said:

check this dude:

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18893

Click to expand...

Wow! Thanks

breaking badly said:

check this dude:

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18893

Click to expand...

Thank s but I have the one for the audi a3 and the one for the gti and at the lower control arm diagram in the audi manual it shows the steel one and in the subframe diagram the aluminium one.
That s why I was asking if the specs are the same.Also at the back bolt of the control arm(the vertical one) It still shows the retaining nut

I'm coming in late on this, as I'm doing research into this mod only now.

Question: 1 poster said that the subframe has to be tightened every 3000 miles otherwise it creaks.

Does anyone else have this problem? Thanks.

to avoid shifting issues

Anyone running the A3 alu subframe should also use WHT006844 (2 pcs). This
part shows up in ETKA for every model running alu subframe (A3, S3, RS3, TTS).

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It seems at that time 'leGTI' didn't know about these!

.

breaking badly said:

It seems at that time 'leGTI' didn't know about these!

.

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ah! Brilliant! thanks. Will professional installers know what to do with these? Because I certainly don't.

Thanks.

It's just like a washer, and goes inbetween the body and the subframe (like in the pic) when you install it

Just show them the picture above

Show your mechanic the picture above and it should be obvious.
I'm convinced as long as the spacers are used the Mk.7 doesn't suffer from the
old subframe sift issue as the Mk.5/6 did, not even close to that degree at least.

A3SBQ said:

***
And
***
The bolts securing the subframe to the chassis are the same. The bolts securing the control arms are longer. On the steel subframe there is a captured nut (welded in) that the bolts thread into. There is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread engagment in the steel nut. In the aluminum subframe the entire entire bolt hole is threaded and you must use the longer Audi hardware as aluminum is softer and the same force the bolt applies to the threads must be spread out over a larger area.
***

Click to expand...

What is the part number for the longer bolt (and anything else we need to connect the control arm to the Audi subframe), and how many bolts needed? Thanks!

I have a picture of all the part no.
How can I post the picture?

www.picr.de

The site will generate a link which you simply copy and paste right into your post.