Well the car only had 6k miles on it so I'm fully blaming it as a defective turbo, that said I feel the added boost and catless downpipe sped up the process, the tune was fine, it ran great and pulled hard.
2016 manual, it was an early 16 I bought it first chance I could, waited through the 15s so I could get the manual
I bought mine in October of 2015, so I'm sure it still used an early revision turbo from the 2015s.
Yeah I hear ya, sometimes I wish I'd have gotten the 600, but then I remember how I don't want to build bottom end, just need to upgrade my fuel pump so I can run higher boost and I'll call it a day lolGotchya bud, I understand, thanks for sharing the info, I appreciate it. I’m planning on going with the boss kit also maybe with cts’s Black Friday sale and continue to use UM for the tuning, that’s why the 20 questions for ya lol
Just gotta decide 500 or 600, I keep waffling depending on the day
I couldn't tell you, I'm tuned with um, at the time they were the only ones with a tune for this kit, so I drove the 3+ hours to get it done.
You also have the option of getting pro tuned or e tuned with a Cobb AP or going with maestro.
With a good E-Tuner YES. Been doing this for years. He needs data. You do a pull after you get his base file. Follow tuners instructions. No WOT until tuner gives the OK.
It runs pretty well, I haven't had any major concerns, only minor annoyance I've had is at idle if you listen really carefully the rpms jump up and down, not enough to move the tachometer needle but you can hear it.
Journal bearing turbos need a cool down cycle before shutting down engine. Without this the bearings get cooked thus failure. Even with cool down cycles it is just a matter of time. Ball Bearing turbos do not need this. I still run a cool down cycle with me ball bearing turbos as a good habit especially after running from the police.
Gets really really hot under the hood.