7
JB1 6MT Clutch Update "Poll"
- Thread starter elamothe15
- Start date
gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
Its a trap because now you are riding that slippery slope to IS38.
Oh, ha! It may be a futile effort but the car's my DD so I'm going to fight the impulse.
Update on the slippage:
It was 86 degrees when I hit the road this afternoon. I waited till the car was nice and warm and gave it the beans in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. No slippage. I wonder how much of a factor the temperature is to the clutch itself versus how much the temperature affects the torque produced...
In any case I plunked the cash for a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. [emoji37]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Silverrune
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Victoria, BC, Canada
'15 GTI (W/ Perf pack)
27999km total (~8,000km tuned, JB1 -> Map 2 JB4, 91-94octane, 24PSI max)
Boost limited to 8PSI in 1st (tires are expensive for a college kid, like to make them last).
Lots of "adventurous" driving.
No other performance related mods
Zero clutch issues.
27999km total (~8,000km tuned, JB1 -> Map 2 JB4, 91-94octane, 24PSI max)
Boost limited to 8PSI in 1st (tires are expensive for a college kid, like to make them last).
Lots of "adventurous" driving.
No other performance related mods
Zero clutch issues.
2017 SE
2k miles
500 miles with JB4 map 6, no issues with several 3rd gear logging pulls.
Installed Cobb with MAP stage 1, clutch slipped in 2nd gear under spirited but not full throttle acceleration. No issues with a 3rd gear pull from 30 mph for a log, but a clutch upgrade is next.
2k miles
500 miles with JB4 map 6, no issues with several 3rd gear logging pulls.
Installed Cobb with MAP stage 1, clutch slipped in 2nd gear under spirited but not full throttle acceleration. No issues with a 3rd gear pull from 30 mph for a log, but a clutch upgrade is next.
elamothe15
Ready to race!
- Location
- Rhode Island, USA
Darn that's pretty low miles. Especially odd that it was a 2nd gear slip as well. Typically the start of slip happens more in higher gear pulls rather than lower.
I'm jb4 map2 right now. I tried to launch once by slipping the clutch out to keep RPMs up while not spinning the tires, then after slipping it in to second, it heated up and slipped in the top of second too. That was with about 100mi on the jb4. I quit driving it like a dumb ass and it hasn't slipped since with several 3/4/5/6 pulls from low speeds.
Oldschoolmk7
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Yonder
Lol. The dual mass flywheel with weak factory pressure plate do not like (1.) speed shifting, (2.) rpm clutch drops, nor "everybody's favorite" (3.) pouring on the beans at low rpm high gears. Pretty easy things in my book to avoid. Every case of clutch slip I have seen in this forum had one or more of the above. 
.
.Incorrect. Driving style or technique will not prevent a clutch from slipping when its torque holding capacity is exceeded. As mentioned tens of thousands of times, in hundreds of threads. The stock clutch can only hold roughly 40-50 ft/lbs more power then the car produces stock. Nearly every single tune and piggy back exceeds this.
It is simple. The clutch holds X. The Car produces more then X. The clutch slips. You post on the forum about it and get a new clutch. Rinse and repeat with misc incorrect information sprinkled in. See the other decades of GTI's with the same problem. Cycle goes on and on. You can't magically get your clutch to hold more power by "driving correctly". That is what ends you up posting in a thread asking which clutch you should get.
It is simple. The clutch holds X. The Car produces more then X. The clutch slips. You post on the forum about it and get a new clutch. Rinse and repeat with misc incorrect information sprinkled in. See the other decades of GTI's with the same problem. Cycle goes on and on. You can't magically get your clutch to hold more power by "driving correctly". That is what ends you up posting in a thread asking which clutch you should get.
TLDR, it isn't a disc problem, it is a pressure plate problem. This can only be overcome by replacement/upgrade
Mine doesn't slip until I run slicks at the track and then it won't hold anywhere above 2nd gear.
elamothe15
Ready to race!
- Location
- Rhode Island, USA
I would like to kindly agree and disagree
I definitely know you are an informative source on these forums, but....I originally had this post to show the success of MTs and the JB1/JB4. From the data I still feel as though people will clutch issues on these tunes is fairly low. Although it will most definitely reduce the overall life of the clutch, you can safely run a less aggressive Map 6. By cutting the power in the lower powerband you help reduce the max torque the car will see (which is around 2-3k rpm). With keeping the boost high in the upper powerband you will retain that peak HP.
Additionally, this is where the driving method does play a difference. If you're punching it WOT down low in a high gear, 5th at 2k rpm for example, the physical strain on the clutch will be much greater than when punching it WOT in 2nd gear. You'll physically be putting down the same amount of torque, but due to the gear ratio the strain will be much lower.
We will forever disagree then. The data, (even straight from tuners) shows the clutch assembly is unable to hold the extra power. That is fundamentally why all the tuners have slowly started adding clutch "safe" tunes (which still have slippage, just do a LO APR search).
Driving style has no bearing on whether or not your clutch will slip when its holding capability is exceeded. That is why you always see a huge rash of clutch slip threads when the winter hits. Everyone was borderline on their assembly's holding capacity, car starts making more torque, there goes the clutch.
Even if you are driving "correctly" it does not mean that your clutch isn't going to slip. It's going to have a massively reduced lifespan and will eventually start slipping (if it isn't already, you just aren't noticing it yet).
I do these posts, because every time the weather gets warm, some random owners come on, saying everything is a load of hog wash and you don't need a new clutch, blah blah blah blah. Then post a crying post when the winter hits trying to find a replacement.
Better to be 100% forewarned that if you tune your car IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM, you will eventually have to replace your clutch assembly, sooner instead of later.
Driving style has no bearing on whether or not your clutch will slip when its holding capability is exceeded. That is why you always see a huge rash of clutch slip threads when the winter hits. Everyone was borderline on their assembly's holding capacity, car starts making more torque, there goes the clutch.
Even if you are driving "correctly" it does not mean that your clutch isn't going to slip. It's going to have a massively reduced lifespan and will eventually start slipping (if it isn't already, you just aren't noticing it yet).
I do these posts, because every time the weather gets warm, some random owners come on, saying everything is a load of hog wash and you don't need a new clutch, blah blah blah blah. Then post a crying post when the winter hits trying to find a replacement.
Better to be 100% forewarned that if you tune your car IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM, you will eventually have to replace your clutch assembly, sooner instead of later.