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Cooling issues on the track

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
Anyone having issues overheating on track?

So I enter T2 at 200 degrees and by the time I leave T3 I am 250 degrees and pulling a bunch of power. I have to half throttle it down the back strait to get temps down. What is weird is I don't recall T4,5,6,7,8 causing any heating issues.

Ideas what can be happening? Has anyone experienced this?
 

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normcaldwell

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Denver, Colorado
You're describing coolant temps, correct?
What were your engine oil temps when the coolant temp went above 200?
What were the ambient temps?

So far, I've been to HPR 8 times (6 last year, 2 so far this year, planning a couple for next month).
They were open lapping days, and I did just the morning sessions.
Highest ambient temp I've dealt with so far has been low 80s.
More often, 60s and 70s.

I try to help the coolant heat dissipation by sending hot air through just the two outside vents. I think it helps.


After ambient temps hit the mid 70s, and I'm well into the session and the engine oil temps get into the 260s, I'll see the coolant temp start to move off the 194 degree mark after the uphill sweepers between turns 6-8 and 10-13. I'll keep the engine rpms between 3k and 5.5k for the straightaway to turn 1, and to turn 4. Seems to give the coolant temp a chance to move back down to 194-200.
Because the IS20 strength is in that rpm range, I'll end up in the braking zone for turn 4 under full throttle, and at the same speed as when I spin the engine faster in a lower gear.
You have the IS38 setup, if I recall correctly; so more power than with the IS20, and more heat to dissipate, I would think.


Having said all that, there's still a come-to-Jesus ambient temp (and wind direction/speed) that turns it into a shorter session/lesser power scenario.
Heat dissipation sure is an issue at this altitude.
We've got the worst of everything; though at least the bugs are small.
 

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
I am going to remove/replace all my coolant. I had a water pump replaced and worry they only added coolant and the mixture might be too high on the G13 side.

I cant think of any other reason. I have asked around and other MK7s don't overheat on the same track.
 

normcaldwell

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Denver, Colorado
I am going to remove/replace all my coolant. I had a water pump replaced and worry they only added coolant and the mixture might be too high on the G13 side.

I cant think of any other reason. I have asked around and other MK7s don't overheat on the same track.

Sounds like a good game plan ^^^

Agreed; good idea.
 

tripleS

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
15 GTI PP \ 16 GT4
Where are you reading your true coolant temp from?... Logs? I'd love to add that to the cluster display, but I can't find the VCDS/OBDeleven settings to do it.
 

mk7r dubai

New member
Location
Dubai
i had a similar issue, my car started doing this after my A/C fan got placed and obviously its summer here in Dubai.

I will either way replace the waterpump , use waterwetter , distilled water and G13. maybe do a 70/30 mix.
 

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
i had a similar issue, my car started doing this after my A/C fan got placed and obviously its summer here in Dubai.

I will either way replace the waterpump , use waterwetter , distilled water and G13. maybe do a 70/30 mix.

Water pump was just replaced. I am going to flush the coolant because I think its well over 60% G13 right now.
 

SugarMouth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Nevada
I checked coolant percentage and it pegged the gauge. It's likely when the dealer did the water pump they just added G13 only. After draining and replacing with water to get a 50/50 blend we estimate the system was nearly all coolant.

I will be back on track next week so that will be the test to see if it was just too much coolant in the system.
 
Location
St. Olaf
Yeah, I too was wondering about the oil. ;) They just use the
factory fill. My personal conclusion: It's entirely suffcient for
engine protection and the SAE 30 grade perhaps even reduces
friction, which again adds power compared to, say, a 5W-50.



I would but it gets below 0F in the winters here. I'm thinking bringing it down to 50/50, I think its above 65 G13 now.
Flushing coolant twice every year is still cheaper than adding
Golf R auxiliary radiators or even replacing a cylinder head. :)
Probably you won't even need to flush it completely. As you
did now, just bleed some of it and top up with destilled water
or coolant to the desired blend. 75 to 80 % of water will gain
a clearly noticeable improvement on a hot summer's track. ;)


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