Recoding the radio to eliminate Fender amp

beardedGTI said:

No. Requires a LoC

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So, when I had my previous Golf (MK6), I had the RNS-310, which I was able to recode to line-out with VCDS.

That's not possible with the MIB2, is it?

Wolf359 said:

So, when I had my previous Golf (MK6), I had the RNS-310, which I was able to recode to line-out with VCDS.

That's not possible with the MIB2, is it?

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No.

Screw photobucket!!! Ever since they changed their accounts its ruined all the How-Tos and DIY on all my forums!! You reel us in with free image hosting and then drop the hammer when you know it will hurt.

Will never use your site again!

So did you replace the rear speakers and run them off your new amp? I was hoping to just upgrade the front stage and sub but keep the rear off factory power. Good write up. Thanks.

Adurm said:

So did you replace the rear speakers and run them off your new amp? I was hoping to just upgrade the front stage and sub but keep the rear off factory power. Good write up. Thanks.

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Sorry, I would have responded much sooner, but this forum does not alert me to new posts even though I'm subscribed. To answer your question, I did replace the rear speakers with Polk Audio 2 way speakers and I disconnected the factory tweeters in the door panels. You certainly could use the factory radio to power the rear speakers, especially if you have the non fender system. If you have the Fender system it gets tricky. You would have to do a lot more wiring to bypass the Fender amp. Also the stock Fender speakers are 2 ohm dual voice coil and I believe the non Fender speakers are 4 ohm, but don't quote me on that.
I am running two amps. One amp powers the front speakers (mids and tweeters separately) and the second powers the rear speakers and the sub. both amps are four channel. Since I am running a DSP I did not use the factory radio to power anything. That wouldn't have worked. The full range left and right signal from the radio goes into the DSP and from there out to the amps. I no longer have fade control from the radio, but who cares? I dialed in the exact amount of rear fill I wanted with the DSP and left it there. I set it and forgot it. The sound system is now 1000% better than before. I'm so happy with it. If anyone wants to see the pictures, send me an email. I can send them to you. I guess I'm one of many who is not willing to pay $400 a year to have my photos show up here. Email address is: "pweggenmann@comcast.net"

THANKS PHOTOBUCKET! you bastards.

I am sure using small speaker lead connectors would work. If you want to add the connector to your existing quadlock socket. The speaker connector part number is VW part number 3B7-035-447 and generic part number is 1-1355033-1.

The MK7 Forum provides image hosting. If the vagcom changes were provided rather then pictures that too would work.

Long Coding Helper shows the following:

Byte 04 00 is Sound System Installed, FF is [FONT=&quot]4 channels/8 passive speakers installed, so that would need to be changed to FF.

[/FONT]Byte 11 [FONT=&quot]03 External Sound System Active,[/FONT] 01 Internal Sound System Active, so that would need to be changed to 01.

Need to update this as I went to byte 11 03 and had no output, I used 02 which is what I originally had and worked again.

I have found a MOST150 solution to go fiber out to my Helix DSP Pro MKII

yellowc4s, is this a new product? I was searching for a solution and no one supported the MOST we have.

yellowc4s said:

I have found a MOST150 solution to go fiber out to my Helix DSP Pro MKII

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Do tell? This would be a great solution. I have seem some MOST to fiber converters and they are fairly expensive and they likely would work, but have not been tested on our platform. Figures there is fiber solution as I just finished building my harness from speaker output to amp input.

$1300 for an interface
Gonna have to stick with my soundbox.

Couple thoughts:

- As George Ab said, you can get the missing insert for the speaker-out section of the QuadLok (3B7-035-447), so you don't have to use potentially unstable spade connectors.

- To tap into the Fender amp harness, get 1.5mm MicroTimer II male terminal connectors (N 103 361 05). Crimp/solder these onto your wire coming from your amp. Disconnect the relevant speaker pins you want from the amp harness, and connect them to your wire via the connector (bare terminals, without using a plug). If you heat-shrink around the connected pair, it will hold them together.

If you're interested, keep an eye out for my Mk7 aftermarket writeup on Vortex next week. I'll try to re-post it here also.

mageus, can you post the link to your Vortex thread here? I am very interested in this. I've been looking for this kind of solution and this seems to be a very low cost way to get my custom system into my Golf R. Thanks.

jedi35 said:

mageus, can you post the link to your Vortex thread here?

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Patience, young padowan. Wait, you're a jedi already? Then you should know patience!

Check out my Fender upgrade thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9206297-My-Mk7-Fender-audio-system-aftermarket-upgrade