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upgrade rotors?

mamock116

Ready to race!
cryo-treated rotors are much stronger than the OEM rotors. track pads destroyed my OEM rotors in 1 track weekend. The pads ate thru the rotor and put a lip on the rotor. I upgraded to cryo treated blank rotors and have not had an issue since. Running the same Hawk track pads too.
 

Zacr811

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto
The only difference you will see on the track is going to come from better pads. Oem rotors are fine for 99% of drivers going to any HPDE course or open lapping day. Pads and good fluid will make all the difference.
 

SRoads

Ready to race!
Location
WV
Let me take the liberty of asking an iconoclastic question,
how do you know this before even hitting the track?
From my understanding, the Stoptech slotted rotors are
basically the exact same stuff as stock, they just come
with slots. I am fully aware that there are some slight
differences in the alloying, but I'm also aware these are
only minor, since any rotor is made from cast iron mainly
(so Fe and C are the main alloying constituents). Let me
add, I did run some 'uprated' rotors in the past (Tarox).
That probably makes me having realistic expectations.
However, they do actually look nice and I hope they will
sustain the stresses on track. Again, a proper ventilation
will help.

;)
Stoptechs should have the their "Aero" directional vented design instead of the straight venting on OEM rotors.
 

GolfArrr

New member
Location
Ontario, Canada
OP - Quebster - Do the Porterfield pads have properly sized backing plates and retaining clips built into them? My G-Loc R12 pads have crap backing plates that rattle around all over the place and make my car sound like it's falling apart. They work great on track... but this annoys me.
 

edge04

Ready to race!
Location
midwest
hate to hijack but perhaps relevant

When putting on aftermarket brand brake parts do you disable the brake pad warning sensor? I'm not even 100% sure how this sensor works, guessing some sort of open circuit but it would seem aftermarket components would impact this sensor and throw off false signals?
 
Location
St. Olaf
If your pads come without a sensor, just plug your old stock ones' in if it
isn't worn down. If the old sensor is worn (opened circuit) solder both ends
of the wire and put some insulation over. This way there's no light flashing,
no need to code and the plug is protected from the elements.

There's no huge advantage of Cryo treatment. It's a very minor advantage.
Claiming Cryo treted rotors are 'much stronger' - where's the prove?
Don't let marketing BS fool you. Cryo is significantly cheaper compared to
heat treatment as performed by Tarox, AP or PFC and higher-end Brembos.
That's why Cryo is used. No single higher-end product comes with a 'cryo
treament'. That says it all. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad. But don't tell
they're 'much stronger'. Anyway, 'strength' isn't any serious issue with cast
iron brake rotors. Try bending a cheap $20 one.

Quebster: Yes, that's true. Like former RS3/TT-RS rotors the CSS/R PP ones
only come in one guise instead of two. One single PN. Therefore one side is
wrong, thus running hotter. Still a good rotor though, good enough for 7:48
laps on the Nurburgring. Not a racing rotor though.
A real 'serious upgrade' would be AP Racing*, Brembo*, Alcon, Performance
Friction or Movit - two-piece of course. You'd pay 1k for a pair though.


*their racing devision, not the stock equivalent stuff



Stoptechs should have the their "Aero" directional vented design instead of the straight venting on OEM rotors.
I doubt they have it, but I'm willing to learn. Their website doesn't specify
which rotors come with directional vanes and it's highly uncommon at least
for affordable (one-piece) rotors to have this technology. Even Tarox don't
come with directional vanes (except their two-piece rotors of course). That
is why this must be questioned. Quebster could help us out with some proper
pics. Admitted - if the Stoptechs do have actually directional vanes (both
sides correctly would mean different part numbers left and right), they'd be
good value.


;)
 

AR11

Ready to race!
Location
CA
hate to hijack but perhaps relevant

When putting on aftermarket brand brake parts do you disable the brake pad warning sensor? I'm not even 100% sure how this sensor works, guessing some sort of open circuit but it would seem aftermarket components would impact this sensor and throw off false signals?

I have the same question. I'm still not entirely sure that the north american cars have a pad wear sensor. I only recall seeing one wire going to the brake area and thought it was like a wheel speed sensor for the ABS control (could be wrong).

If a sensor is required I'll cut the harness clip off of the stock pad sensor and loop the wires to create a "sensor delete" plug.
 

edge04

Ready to race!
Location
midwest
my car is a NA and I am getting pad wear warnings

I have the same question. I'm still not entirely sure that the north american cars have a pad wear sensor. I only recall seeing one wire going to the brake area and thought it was like a wheel speed sensor for the ABS control (could be wrong).

If a sensor is required I'll cut the harness clip off of the stock pad sensor and loop the wires to create a "sensor delete" plug.
 

normcaldwell

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Denver, Colorado
I have the same question. I'm still not entirely sure that the north american cars have a pad wear sensor. I only recall seeing one wire going to the brake area and thought it was like a wheel speed sensor for the ABS control (could be wrong).

If a sensor is required I'll cut the harness clip off of the stock pad sensor and loop the wires to create a "sensor delete" plug.


I've changed front and rear pads several times.
Much to my surprise, there's not a pad wear sensor on any of them.
Fine by me, as I inspect and change pads for track/street often enough to be the manual sensor.
 
Location
St. Olaf
If a sensor is required I'll cut the harness clip off of the stock pad sensor and loop the wires to create a "sensor delete" plug.
As mentioned I managed to remove the 'wire loop/circuit' from the old pad.
I did this several times. Not too difficult as the wire is stronger than the
pad compound.
 

SRoads

Ready to race!
Location
WV
If your pads come without a sensor, just plug your old stock ones' in if it
isn't worn down. If the old sensor is worn (opened circuit) solder both ends
of the wire and put some insulation over. This way there's no light flashing,
no need to code and the plug is protected from the elements.

There's no huge advantage of Cryo treatment. It's a very minor advantage.
Claiming Cryo treted rotors are 'much stronger' - where's the prove?
Don't let marketing BS fool you. Cryo is significantly cheaper compared to
heat treatment as performed by Tarox, AP or PFC and higher-end Brembos.
That's why Cryo is used. No single higher-end product comes with a 'cryo
treament'. That says it all. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad. But don't tell
they're 'much stronger'. Anyway, 'strength' isn't any serious issue with cast
iron brake rotors. Try bending a cheap $20 one.

Quebster: Yes, that's true. Like former RS3/TT-RS rotors the CSS/R PP ones
only come in one guise instead of two. One single PN. Therefore one side is
wrong, thus running hotter. Still a good rotor though, good enough for 7:48
laps on the Nurburgring. Not a racing rotor though.
A real 'serious upgrade' would be AP Racing*, Brembo*, Alcon, Performance
Friction or Movit - two-piece of course. You'd pay 1k for a pair though.


*their racing devision, not the stock equivalent stuff




I doubt they have it, but I'm willing to learn. Their website doesn't specify
which rotors come with directional vanes and it's highly uncommon at least
for affordable (one-piece) rotors to have this technology. Even Tarox don't
come with directional vanes (except their two-piece rotors of course). That
is why this must be questioned. Quebster could help us out with some proper
pics. Admitted - if the Stoptechs do have actually directional vanes (both
sides correctly would mean different part numbers left and right), they'd be
good value.


;)

http://stoptech.com/products/rotors/stoptech-sport-rotors

http://www.centricparts.com/products/stoptech-sport-rotors
 
Last edited:
Location
St. Olaf
I did read that before and it doesn't help me reading it again, dude.
The most interesting word is "most". So we sadly still don't know it
for Stoptech's GTI rotors.
 

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
No, the Stoptech stock replacement rotors for our cars are not directionally vented, or I would've definitely told all of you by now because that would be amazing, lol.

The Stoptech stock replacement rotors for our cars are a "direct descendant" (whatever the ef that means) of the Aero rotors. They are not, however, two piece nor directional.

The rotors even came with Left and Right stickers which made me a little excited and hopeful after opening up the box, so I called StopTech and specifically asked about them. They said no, they're non-directional, you can put the rotors on whatever side you want, it makes no difference the direction of the slots.

So there you go. :)



OP - Quebster - Do the Porterfield pads have properly sized backing plates and retaining clips built into them? My G-Loc R12 pads have crap backing plates that rattle around all over the place and make my car sound like it's falling apart. They work great on track... but this annoys me.



I know the feeling, my first pair supposedly was the first they made for the car and they didn't have the brackets on them. They rattled all the effing time!

Yes, the Porterfield R4-S have the backing plates and retaining clips built into them. They fit perfectly... and by perfectly, I mean like no room for error. No more jittery brakes.

The R4 track compound pads do not have the retaining clips.
 
Last edited:

GolfArrr

New member
Location
Ontario, Canada
I know the feeling, my first pair supposedly was the first they made for the car and they didn't have the brackets on them. They rattled all the effing time!

Yes, the Porterfield R4-S have the backing plates and retaining clips built into them. They fit perfectly... and by perfectly, I mean like no room for error. No more jittery brakes.

The R4 track compound pads do not have the retaining clips.

Awesome. Good to hear some feedback on this as I'll be due for new pads soon enough. Very curious to hear how the R4 pads perform on track. Looking forward to hearing your review. Gonna look up that compound to see how it compares to the GLoc R12's I'm running right now.
 
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