Overheating on track

Hey guys i have owned my 7R for 2 years now with 90,000 KM ( roughly 56,000 miles ) and loved every second of it.

My Car has been tuned since day one and has all the AMS Performance goodies, air intake , intercooler and downpipe as well as ground control camber plates.

Issues i had faced are very minor , i had a thermostat leak at about 50k , swapped a faulty coil at about 70 and replaced the ac fan at about 85ish.

I have been tracking the car since day one about once or twice a month sometimes every week when the weather is nice and cool.

Last weekend i took it out at night, temp was 32c a bit humid a nice breeze as well, coolant temps went up to 111-115 on my p3 gauge after 2-3 laps usually it would stay between 90-100 at all times, on the road it runs perfectly fine i even did some spirited driving on some mountain roads.

i wonder if the dealer messed up something while replacing the A/C fan? or it could be a bad water pump that doesn't flow well at high rpm? car is not on warranty obviously so i would have to experiment myself.

Please let me know if anyone had similar issues in the past, i will probably replace my waterpump report back when the track opens in 2-3 weeks

Try changing your coolant/water mixture to be 70% water and 30% coolant. Really helps keep the temps at bay when on the track. Add some water wetter too

I didn't see anything over 100 C during a few 20min track sessions, but I haven't been on track in hot weather. 115c would be like my oil temp.

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rex n effect said:

I didn't see anything over 100 C during a few 20min track sessions, but I haven't been on track in hot weather. 115c would be like my oil temp.

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I hit 130c oil temp on my last track day then went for a cool down lol

In UAE he can probably run 100% water with water wetter. That will help a ton

Do not listen to that kind of 'advice'. Not a smart idea. Never run
100 % water and never ever use fancy stuff like 'water wetter'!
That said, it's a worthwhile idea increasing water to, say 70 % as
Jay suggested, since water has excellent thermal properties and
there's virtually nothing better on earth than water. Despite that
there has to be some VW G13 in the coolant for several reasons.
But first I'd check the engine twice for possible malfunctions. It
shouldn't get too hot as it is. Secondly, IF you're most certain it
actually is ok AND there's just one single auxialiary radiator on the
car, I'd consider uprading the cooling system by fitting a second
one (it should come with two from factory if it's a DSG R). This is
the most professional approach.

I would suspect the fan or the thermostat. A VCDS scan will detect fan errors and you can log the coolant temp while idling and while driving. If the temp is OK while idling but high during driving it's most likely the thermostat, and if the temp is high while idling, normal while driving easy at a constantly 35-45 it's probably the fan. I believe the fan controller is still located in the big fan. Which was replaced?

I raced scca for years. We were not allowed to use antifreeze.
I used distilled water and water wetter. Never just plain water with anything.
The distilled water helps with deposits rust exc. for a street car with no freezing problem. I would use 25% antifreeze.

Mk7sport said:

I raced scca for years. We were not allowed to use antifreeze.
I used distilled water and water wetter. Never just plain water with anything.
The distilled water helps with deposits rust exc. for a street car with no freezing problem. I would use 25% antifreeze.

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Yep me as well. Water + Water wetter in my Spec Miata.

15 % - VW G13
85 % - dist. water





Guess those engineers do know what they're doing.

However, first you have to find the issue if there is one. It doesn't make much
sense to compensate for a stuck thermostat by increasing the water content.

.

If you're going to track your R in Dubai, overheating should always be something at least in the back of your mind. Your 32 C nightly track temps would be mid summer high temps in much of the rest of the world. There's a reason why VW sells R's that are somewhat detuned in your region. Adding to this is the fact that you've upgraded your intercooler. The heat which it removes from your intake tract goes straight on to your radiator, so now not only does your radiator have to deal with the ambient desert heat but desert heat which has been further increased by your bigger intercooler, plus all the additional BTUs made by the increased power being made within your engine's cylinders/head. So many people who boost the power of their engines fail to take into account that added power equals added heat to be removed from the engine.

But there are a couple of remedies. First, switching out the stock plastic oil pan with a larger finned aluminum pan can directly reduce your oil temp, and indirectly, your water temp; though this will only help, not do miracles. The Wortec pan https://www.moddedeuros.com/products/wortec-cast-oil-pan-wr06lp is available from a number of aftermarket parts dealers, and only cuts your ground clearance by 3mm. The other remedy might be to go to a vented hood, to better evacuate that heated air being generated by your engine. This almost always drops your water temp under race conditions (and why these vents are so ubiquitous on race cars, particularly those built for endurance events). Siebon makes an interesting CF hood for the Mk7 Golf, and isn't outrageously priced, though styling is always a very personal choice: http://seiboncarbon.com/products/dv-style-carbon-fiber-hood-for-2012-up-volkswagen-golf-mk7.html.

Al_in_Philly said:

But there are a couple of remedies. First, switching out the stock plastic oil pan with a larger finned aluminum pan can directly reduce your oil temp, and indirectly, your water temp; though this will only help, not do miracles. The Wortec pan https://www.moddedeuros.com/products/wortec-cast-oil-pan-wr06lp is available from a number of aftermarket parts dealers, and only cuts your ground clearance by 3mm. The other remedy might be to go to a vented hood, to better evacuate that heated air being generated by your engine. This almost always drops your water temp under race conditions (and why these vents are so ubiquitous on race cars, particularly those built for endurance events). Siebon makes an interesting CF hood for the Mk7 Golf, and isn't outrageously priced, though styling is always a very personal choice: http://seiboncarbon.com/products/dv-style-carbon-fiber-hood-for-2012-up-volkswagen-golf-mk7.html.

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That oil pan is awesome. Gonna add this to my list. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the input everyone!

I will definitely go ahead with a few mods, if you guys search IABED industries you will find an awesome oil cooler for the 7R which i have ordered.

The oil pan baffle is really a great idea along with the carbon hood.

its too hot to track anything these days, i will wait till weather cools off and test.