Try the settings literally right above.
1500 15
2000 16
2500 17
3000 19
3500 21
4000 21
4500 22
5000 20
5500 18
6000 16
6500 16
7000 15
Thanks! I'll give that a go tonight.
Try the settings literally right above.
1500 15
2000 16
2500 17
3000 19
3500 21
4000 21
4500 22
5000 20
5500 18
6000 16
6500 16
7000 15
Hey guys,first time posting.
I'm currently ED IS38,DSG,FBO, jb4 stack, E30 , no meth.
I was at the track last recently and it defaulted to map 4. High IAT's (FL)
Current settings;
1500 - 0
2000 - 0
2500 - 0
3000 - 0
3500 - 0
4000 - 0
4500 - 1
5000 - 3
5500 - 3
6000 - 4
6500 - 4
7000 - 4
Boost safety 27
FOL 30
George has been helping me but I haven't heard back, wanted a second opinion.
Log during that run.
https://datazap.me/u/kevturn91/map-6-track?log=0&data=1-2-4-6-9-11-14-18-19
Map 4 only log:
https://datazap.me/u/kevturn91/is38-ed-93-jb4-map-4?log=0&data=1-2-4-6-9-11-14-18-19
Installed JB4. It took 18-20 miles to calibrate/do it's thing/etc. Then, like turning on a light switch the thing turned into psycho GTI. What a power increase.
Then 1 day later I noticed that every time I'm on the hwy and give it a little gas (and I mean a LITTLE), that clutch lets go and the RPMs float up for a second.
I kind of assumed the clutch would start to go gradually after a little time had passed.
So do I try and load a tuned down map 6 to drive with until I can justify a clutch upgrade? Or go back to stock? What's the point of more power if I have to constantly baby it so the clutch doesn't slip?
The strange part is it slips when applying a little power (usually in 5th or 6th at 2.5k-3k rpm). How come I could go full throttle in stock form with no problem? Weird.
Use map 6 to dial back the boost a bit around the 3k to 3.5k rpm range. Also only use 5th and 6th for cruising.Installed JB4. It took 18-20 miles to calibrate/do it's thing/etc. Then, like turning on a light switch the thing turned into psycho GTI. What a power increase.
Then 1 day later I noticed that every time I'm on the hwy and give it a little gas (and I mean a LITTLE), that clutch lets go and the RPMs float up for a second.
I kind of assumed the clutch would start to go gradually after a little time had passed.
So do I try and load a tuned down map 6 to drive with until I can justify a clutch upgrade? Or go back to stock? What's the point of more power if I have to constantly baby it so the clutch doesn't slip?
The strange part is it slips when applying a little power (usually in 5th or 6th at 2.5k-3k rpm). How come I could go full throttle in stock form with no problem? Weird.
Good night someone uses common gasoline 88octanas with 27% alcohol is good in map 6?
Agreed, the first thing I'm going to do is record a couple logs and then get some advice for setting up a conservative map 6 to use until somewhere down the road when a clutch upgrade happens. I'll prolly be back here before too long trying to set up a clutch friendly map 6.
log map 1 first
Here in Brazil in my city I am only finding the common gasoline that has these 88octanas plus the 27% alcohol use intake and dowpipe I hope that it will take good performance using this gasoline
So what exactly does a downpipe do for our cars? I get the basic premise of it increasing airflow/removing restrictions... but does this mean with stock downpipe cars are limited in how much psi they can push out, and downpipe increases the threshold? Something like 24psi limit without downpipe, 28psi limit with downpipe, or something like that?
Something like that...
It opens up more exhaust airflow, which reduces restrictions on the exhaust side of the turbo and lets it spin faster. This, in turn, allows the compressor side to spin faster, which pushes in more air. More air flow = more boost.
I wouldn't say 28psi is the limit - that's pretty high. My most aggressive maps spike at 26.5 psi, with the everyday DD map hitting 25 usually. 28 is right out.