Just an update my car went from 11.7s-12.0s around 116-118mph on UMs tune, To best pass of 11.36 @ 125.6. had about 5-6 back to back passes at 11.3x around 125mph with maestro.
7
Eurodyne Updates
- Thread starter CarlosCanizares
- Start date
Just an update my car went from 11.7s-12.0s around 116-118mph on UMs tune, To best pass of 11.36 @ 125.6. had about 5-6 back to back passes at 11.3x around 125mph with maestro.
HAHA Yeah i was! It was finally running like a champ and ready to kill. I'm not sure if you guys seen the new Infiniti Q50/Q60 silversport. Keep in mind the Redsport 400 is the highest model rated at 400hp and the silversport is 1 model below which is the same engine, but less boost from the factory for half the cost.
https://youtu.be/kEA1Qy9tV5I
THEREALVRT
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- The great white north
- Car(s)
- Golf R
congrats. thats a great time
worldacgti
Go Kart Champion
My buddy has a q60 tuned....wicked fast car
katanamst279
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Houston, TX
Can someone take a look at these logs for me?
Went stage 2 today. Mixed 3.5 gallons of E85, the rest 93 Octane.
I might try and run these again later. The Torque dips in these looks weird.
98 Octane/25psi
https://datazap.me/u/katanamst279/stage-2-98-octane-25psi?log=0&data=1-16-17-18-19-22-23
98 Octane/26psi
https://datazap.me/u/katanamst279/stage-2-98-octane-26psi?log=0&data=1-16-17-18-19-22-23
Thanks
Went stage 2 today. Mixed 3.5 gallons of E85, the rest 93 Octane.
I might try and run these again later. The Torque dips in these looks weird.
98 Octane/25psi
https://datazap.me/u/katanamst279/stage-2-98-octane-25psi?log=0&data=1-16-17-18-19-22-23
98 Octane/26psi
https://datazap.me/u/katanamst279/stage-2-98-octane-26psi?log=0&data=1-16-17-18-19-22-23
Thanks
JcarrollWS6
Ready to race!
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Looks clean
rafycotto
Ready to race!
DSG tune? I believe a couple people had issue with torque limits. has to do with the DSG tune
Anyone having issues with latest Eurodyne flash software for the power tap. Upgraded to most recent and keep on getting error reading from ram 7e-00 and it freezes the app on Block 10.
Had to take a leap of faith, turned off ignition and was able to flash back to stock, but even then still had the error.
Hopefully it's something easy to fix and not something in my ECU.
Had to take a leap of faith, turned off ignition and was able to flash back to stock, but even then still had the error.
Hopefully it's something easy to fix and not something in my ECU.
railroader
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Yuma Arizona
I haven had any issues but I haven't flashed anything in about 4 days.
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Cool..thanks for the reply. It's been a while myself, so upgraded a few versions.
railroader
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Yuma Arizona
I just got back from doing a log and there is 1 update I have not done, it's the one your speaking of so I didn't do it
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steddy2112
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Belcamp MD
- Car(s)
- 2016 GTI SE
In your first run, you have some knock retard on cyl 1(peak 1.88º, settled 0.75º from 3000-3600) and some knock retard on cyl 2 (peak 3.75º, settled 1.5º from 3000-3600). Again on cyl 1(peak 1.88º, settled 1.13º from 5000-5600). And again on cyl 1(peak 1.88º, settled 1.13º from 5900-6300).
In cases it's the mythical false knock people like to talk about, it usually happens from a shift with stiff mounts tied with a grippy clutch and tires. Since your run starts with you just rolling into it in 3rd at 3000-ish RPM, this is real KR. From the 3000-3600 RPM range part of your pull, you're commanding a 0.89 Lambda( 13.083:1 AFR) and from 3000-3350 you're getting a 0.84. Then from 3350-3600 it makes the "correction" from 0.84 to the targeted 0.89. Within 200 RPM of you getting to your commanded AFR, your KR goes away. IMO though that's a bit lean for where peak cyl pressure is occurring. Especially I know you're running catless.
The KR up top is real too. Looking at your lambda settings in the RPM where you're getting knock, you have your AFR set at a commanded(and are getting) 0.89, later when the knock goes away you're at a commanded(and getting)0.86. At the tippy top you could retard a degree of timing to get rid of it.
Fix for the first run log? Set a commanded lambda value of 0.86(12.6:1 AFR) from 3000 up at max load and kill a degree of timing from 5900- wherever your rev limiter is set at. The stock tuning on GDI engines always run mega lean in the "fat" part of the power band to save catalysts and then ramp up to where you'll make the most power via fuel increase in the last 1000 RPM of the rev ban, where most undersized compressors are waving the white flag in terms of air flow. Take advantage of the power under the curve, and keep the heat down until it happens up top, instead of trying to keep it hot in the middle then cool it down when it's too hot to be efficient anymore.
ALSO read about the higher octane fuel you use. Is it oxygenated? Does it have less energy per volume like E85? If it does, the reason you could be getting knock is there's not enough fuel. I see a lot of people around here run E-blends but never say anything about changing their stoich to match it. Normal pump gas your stoich is 14.7:1, E85 and most race gases(especially oxygenated ones) have a lower stoich value.
Here's a guide for conversions based on what amount of E85 you're running:
Run 2 is more of the same except it's cyl 3 instead of cyl 2, and it's roughly in the same part of the rev band. If you set the fuel to a straight afr across your whole 100% and STILL get knock, it's time to turn the timing down in the parts of the rev band where you are knocking. IME 0-2º of KR that doesn't show up consistently, aka roughly in the same rev range on consistent runs, is no biggie. In this case, you get KR in between 3000-4000 RPM and 5700-6300 RPM on two logs, you should do something about it, especially since it goes up to like 2º to 4º and stays there for a couple hundred RPM.
Also to note you end both runs with your intake air temperature lower than you started. Seeing you're in AZ and it starting at roughly 75ºF I am sure it's going to get a lot hotter out your way so I'd keep an eye on what your IATs do in the hot ass heat of the summer. Also to note, you should see if you can turn off cat over temp protection with Maestro since you're running catless. Pretty sure we don't have EGT sensors, but engineers do program a pretty accurate guesstimate based on load and length of load(kappa lol). You'll lose power over back to back runs from the car trying to super richen the AFR to save a cat that's not there lol.
Looks uber safe.
Like I haven't seen a log on a stock tune, but you're running next to no timing, no extra fueling in the midrange, just extra boost, which is causing you to have pretty hot IATs compared to railroader. Pretty sure you're getting close to timing cut from high IATs. Stock intercooler? If you are try not running so much boost, add some fuel(you're running stoich almost the whole run which will make everything hot too), and add some timing, you'll make more power, safer than this tune currently is.
With that being said this tune is no way unsafe. You're just relying on boost pressure to increase cylinder pressure to make your power, when you should look at boost to BOOST cylinder pressure. Also look at the image in the previously quoted post and figure out what your new stoich should be if you're running an e-blend. It'll help keep things cooler which is the whole point of e85.
I know this isn't the E85 thread, but I'll say it in here right quick:
E85 is great for power, but isn't something that doesn't come with precautions. For one it causes higher oil dilution. Look at it as reverse oil blow by. Just like oil making it past the ringlands, it goes the other way. If you change your oil yourself a lot of times you'll notice that you get the same amount of oil out as you put in. With the constant that oil seals on turbos let blow by happen, oil dilution from high cyl pressure(aka going full throttle), and windage ventilation(PCV system), you lose oil from normal day to day operation. Just like oil and intake valves not mixing, oil and E85 mix even less. Rule of thumb I've always heard is stick to 3000 mile oil changes if you run a lot of E85 or at the very least, shorter drain intervals than normal and have your oil analyzed. ESPECIALLY with iron blocked engines. It causes them to rust faster and breaks oil down a lot faster making it harder for the oil to do it's job.
Again this isn't gospel, so YMMV, but if you plan on keeping your ride for the long term it is something everyone may want to consider.
Happy tuning.
katanamst279
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- Houston, TX
I dont have it yet. I think thats what i need to do next
Lord_Flexington
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Syracuse
- Car(s)
- 15 MK7 GTI LP PP
I have a few questions here for anyone with the time. I think I've fully researched Cobb to the best of my ability and I have some questions about ED.
FBO-GTI-Possible hybrid turbo. Road course use (no drag)
I have a Jb4 which has been great but with a hybrid, it has been suggested to pursue a more robust tuning option. So questions
1. Can anyone confirm for me if ED has Launch Control for MT?
2. Any possibility of tuning that allows for fuel control for deacceleration (think pop n crackle type things). It's one of my favorite reasons to watch GT series racing and i get it slightly with the jb4.
3. ED stage 2 is adjustable from what I've read, what is one of the big differences Maestro has over stage 2?
4. Has anyone made an Eco map (fuel saving for long distances)
5. Whats a good price for a Pro-tune on ED?
6. Any way to log with ED outside of having the laptop plugged in? If I want to change settings on track I don't see a way to do so and monitor changes, (use the jb4?)
7. Can you store mutliple maps? Race map, around town, 91-93 gas situations, Temperature changes.
Thanks
FBO-GTI-Possible hybrid turbo. Road course use (no drag)
I have a Jb4 which has been great but with a hybrid, it has been suggested to pursue a more robust tuning option. So questions
1. Can anyone confirm for me if ED has Launch Control for MT?
2. Any possibility of tuning that allows for fuel control for deacceleration (think pop n crackle type things). It's one of my favorite reasons to watch GT series racing and i get it slightly with the jb4.
3. ED stage 2 is adjustable from what I've read, what is one of the big differences Maestro has over stage 2?
4. Has anyone made an Eco map (fuel saving for long distances)
5. Whats a good price for a Pro-tune on ED?
6. Any way to log with ED outside of having the laptop plugged in? If I want to change settings on track I don't see a way to do so and monitor changes, (use the jb4?)
7. Can you store mutliple maps? Race map, around town, 91-93 gas situations, Temperature changes.
Thanks