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Engine & Trans Mounts (ECS vs 034)

r_saurus

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
One response listed below, I'm not sure if this is accurate.

The ECS kit is polyurethane and the 034 is a high durometer rubber. Both are stiffer, but rubber is still rubber and can break down over time. The poly is more resistant to gas, grease, oils, etc.
 

oddspyke

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
2016 GTI, 2018 ZL1
Not to muddy the waters, but why not BFI? Their mounts have a lot of positive feedback on this forum.
 

flipflp

Autocross Newbie
Location
PNW
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
Completely different design goals between those two products.

The 034 mounts are meant to be an upgraded OEM mount, same style just higher durometer rubber for some additional control. They would be the most comfortable mount upgrade IMO, what I'd call OEM+.

The ECS (or BFI) are going to be MUCH stronger and reduce engine movement much more, at the cost of NVH. You're going to hear and feel a lot more, and if that's what you're looking for, or your goal with the car needs a high level of engine control, that style of mount is for you.

The BFI mounts, for reference:

https://store.blackforestindustries.com/enpe45.html
 

r_saurus

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
BFI is $400 for the full stage 1 kit, engine, trans and even the dog bone insert. That's definitely worth it for a well made kit, produced in the USA by BFI. Not sure where you're seeing $550.

https://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfimk7mqbst11.html

Thanks for clarifying! I did not realize both the engine/trans were included in that kit!

I agree that $400 is worth it for something well made that receives that kind of positive feedback!

Thanks again
 

Cowzill00

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
And then there's the RocEuro arm that's said to help/eliminate NVH. I was looking at that option the other day after several chimed in about it. The RocEuro being in addition to the dogbones I assume, but I may try it with the OEM dogbone mount first.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
And then there's the RocEuro arm that's said to help/eliminate NVH. I was looking at that option the other day after several chimed in about it. The RocEuro being in addition to the dogbones I assume, but I may try it with the OEM dogbone mount first.

It only helps reduce NVH from the dogbone (insert or replacement puck). You can run it alone, it won't add any NVH and will make a smaller difference than combining it with an insert.
 

Tigsel

Ready to race!
Location
The other side
Whatever brand you go with make sure to have engine mount properly aligned. I have 034 trans/engine mounts and was getting NVH at certain RPM/speed. I then found a post here or on the Vortex, and sure enough mine was misaligned. I had my shop re-align it and NVH disappeared completely. I haven't tried any other brands but so far 034 feels great, especially after the re-alignment.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
Another alternative (this is what I'm currently considering)

BFI engine mount + trans mount insert

The insert isn't as much $$$ as the full trans mount and should stiffen things up. Stage 1 insert is 70a poly vs 45a (oem).
 

Cowzill00

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
It only helps reduce NVH from the dogbone (insert or replacement puck). You can run it alone, it won't add any NVH and will make a smaller difference than combining it with an insert.


[emoji106] thx.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
Another alternative (this is what I'm currently considering)

BFI engine mount + trans mount insert

The insert isn't as much $$$ as the full trans mount and should stiffen things up. Stage 1 insert is 70a poly vs 45a (oem).

This is the way to go. Front what I understand, early 2014/2015 models had a transmission mount clamped together by bolt/nut, and later models like my 2017 are riveted. The rivets are easy enough to punch out with a power drill and a little patience. No need to re-rivet, as the 4 mount to body bolts pass through both plates and sandwich them together quite firmly when torqued down to the body.

In some cases the trans mount can be spot welded, but that may be only on Audi models. Even in that case, Jake said he was able to drill out the spot welds just like you would the rivets on his MK6.

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=583168&postcount=175
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
This is the way to go. Front what I understand, early 2014/2015 models had a transmission mount clamped together by bolt/nut, and later models like my 2017 are riveted. The rivets are easy enough to punch out with a power drill and a little patience. No need to re-rivet, as the 4 mount to body bolts pass through both plates and sandwich them together quite firmly when torqued down to the body.

In some cases the trans mount can be spot welded, but that may be only on Audi models. Even in that case, Jake said he was able to drill out the spot welds just like you would the rivets on his MK6.

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=583168&postcount=175

Here’s how to do it! I’ve installed several sets of these, but finally took the time to shoot a video.

 

TrinivdubOG

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Caribbean
avoid ECS like the plague if you can.

Installed the engine mount in my MK4 GTI after my motor build, car sat down for another 2 years never ran it. Decided to start back working on the electricals a few weeks ago, lo and behold i pop the hood and see the engine leaning to one side, looked at the mount and the Polyurethane has completely crumbled and the bracket slid all the way down the bushing.
 
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