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Burger Tuning JB4 Golf 1.8TSI MQB specific information thread

espo92

Ready to race!
Location
Orlando, Florida
Car(s)
2016 Audi A3 2.0T
I'm sure you've seen this advice before, but TALK TO GEORGE! He will walk you through the whole thing adjustment by adjustment and make sure everything does exactly as it should. If you don't yet have APR stage 1/2 but already have the JB4 and IS20 the only real point of the tune is to remove the speed limiter and add left foot braking (and a few other smaller things). If you don't think that is worth $600+, then I would skip the tune.

Im already APR Stage 2. I was just curious as to what settings anyone who has the tunes is running. Obviously map 6. I will be logging stage 2 this weekend so i have some good baseline before the turbo swap.
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
Im already APR Stage 2. I was just curious as to what settings anyone who has the tunes is running. Obviously map 6. I will be logging stage 2 this weekend so i have some good baseline before the turbo swap.

Ah, I think I remember you mentioning you already had a tune before. For my conservative boost settings I don't start increasing boost until 4k rpm, then steadily increase it more after that up to +3. Additionally my Fuel Open Loop is at 15, which is probably more than I need, but it keeps it very safe. We could have gone further, but I told George I want this to be a lifetime of the car tune so we stopped early. When George was helping me tune, we started with only adding 1psi starting at 5000rpm if I remember correctly, and closely watched the timing for changes while adding more. I also have different settings for altitude than sea level because the boost curve changes, and my e85 mix tuning was similar but a lot more agressive, and I ended up with +2psi at 3500rpm to +6 at redline all while having greater and cleaner timing than before.
 

espo92

Ready to race!
Location
Orlando, Florida
Car(s)
2016 Audi A3 2.0T
Ah, I think I remember you mentioning you already had a tune before. For my conservative boost settings I don't start increasing boost until 4k rpm, then steadily increase it more after that up to +3. Additionally my Fuel Open Loop is at 15, which is probably more than I need, but it keeps it very safe. We could have gone further, but I told George I want this to be a lifetime of the car tune so we stopped early. When George was helping me tune, we started with only adding 1psi starting at 5000rpm if I remember correctly, and closely watched the timing for changes while adding more. I also have different settings for altitude than sea level because the boost curve changes, and my e85 mix tuning was similar but a lot more agressive, and I ended up with +2psi at 3500rpm to +6 at redline all while having greater and cleaner timing than before.

Thanks for that! I cant wait to start messing with map 6. For now i ran some logs for stage 2 APR (if anyone was curious).

Logs 1-3: http://www.datazap.me/u/sespo92/stage-2-apr-logs?log=0&data=1-4
Logs 4-6: http://www.datazap.me/u/sespo92/stage-2-apr-log-2-0?log=0&data=1-4

AFR seems lower than most stock guys (13 vs 11), boost is obviously much higher. Not sure on the rest of the parameters, but i am waiting on the knowledge of people smarter than me on what to do with the is20 when i get it.
 

IslandHydro

New member
Noob Question: I've read through this thread, and have heard it mentioned several times that 'every car is different'. I find this hard to believe. I can see how the operational conditions will vary significantly (air pressure, humidity, temp) but I struggle to believe the cars themselves to have significant variability. Thoughts?
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
Noob Question: I've read through this thread, and have heard it mentioned several times that 'every car is different'. I find this hard to believe. I can see how the operational conditions will vary significantly (air pressure, humidity, temp) but I struggle to believe the cars themselves to have significant variability. Thoughts?

In my experience and opinion it's mostly the operational conditions as you described, the driver, and mods done that are different between cars, and every once in a while there is a bad part or something that only some people have which may be fixed in more recent models. Those alone can be significant differences when pushing the car to the limit, but mostly each car is pretty identical from the factory.
 

TwinDad

Autocross Newbie
Location
Fort Lee, NJ
Noob Question: I've read through this thread, and have heard it mentioned several times that 'every car is different'. I find this hard to believe. I can see how the operational conditions will vary significantly (air pressure, humidity, temp) but I struggle to believe the cars themselves to have significant variability. Thoughts?

The only differences we've seen with some cars is the timing. Myself and others get as much as 18.5 degrees of timing advance stock and under mild boost settings. Some others can only get 12-14 degrees even when stock. No one knows exactly why, but it may have to do with model years. From what I have gathered, the '15 cars are the ones with less advance. I know there were some changes over the years. I think early cars had a recall for something with the cam timing and they also had different coil packs
 

mattkime

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
madison, wi
any concerns with occasionally removing the JB4 OBD cable to use odbeleven?
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
No issues with pulling the OBD cable.

Speaking of that, I have heard a few things about what happens when the OBD cable is removed and you try driving, but I want to be sure. I have accidentally driven off without re-attaching it after doing stuff with obdeleven before, and I have heard that it defaults to a +3 map which would be extremely unsafe in my situation. Can you clarify exactly what happens when the OBD cable is removed? I would expect that it would try to run the same map it had been set to just without the information it gets from the OBD cable.

EDIT: I read the front page and it turns out it does set it to a +3 map. What I said before where that doesn't sound safe for someone stacked like me still stands.
 

ketoi12345678

Ready to race!
Location
FL
I'm going to a drag race this Friday. 100 gas will be available. Few questions need you help me:
My car is Alltrack with stock 17" wheels and tires. Only mod is JB4
1. What should I do to prepare the car for the race?
2. Should I lower tire pressure to 25psi to gain more traction?
3. Custom map6 for 100 gas?
4. I saw a user on this forum (BLADE3952) ran 13.5xx with his wagon 5MT stage 2 APR IS12, so hopefully, I will get something similar to his.

Thanks,
 

4MotionWagen

Ready to race!
Location
Michigan
I'm going to a drag race this Friday. 100 gas will be available. Few questions need you help me:
My car is Alltrack with stock 17" wheels and tires. Only mod is JB4
1. What should I do to prepare the car for the race?
2. Should I lower tire pressure to 25psi to gain more traction?
3. Custom map6 for 100 gas?
4. I saw a user on this forum (BLADE3952) ran 13.5xx with his wagon 5MT stage 2 APR IS12, so hopefully, I will get something similar to his.

Thanks,



I couldn't spin the tire more than 2 or 3 feet during a 3000 rpm launch running 20 psi peak with my IS12 with the stock 16 inch tire on my 4mo GSW so your probably good there. Give it a test launch and see what you get and go from there.


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