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nicholam77's PP GTI thread

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Chinese Euroswitch Review

Recently installed a Chinese "OEM" Euro Switch in my car. I bought on eBay and it seems to be a legitimate part, although there are some fitment issues.

Everything is functional, but what's interesting is the silver trim inserts are shinier, more polished looking, than the stock switch. More of a chrome finish than brushed aluminum look. It doesn't stick out too much, but my OCD would prefer it to perfectly match everything else. Plus I think the brushed look is a little classier.

Secondly, there is a small amount of play in the switch when turning the knob. Not a lot but it wiggles a little bit. I'm going to try and snug it up with some tape.

Aside from those two "issues", it seems quality and works as expected.

[New switch top, old switch bottom]



Installed:




This was about half the price, but I kind of wish I had just gone for the actual Euro version, assuming it would fix the discrepancies.
 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Rear Fog Coding

To get the rear fog working with the BEC harness + euroswitch, all you have to do is tell the car the euroswitch is installed. Super easy and quick.

Just go into the Central Electronics module, enter security code 31347, enter long coding, and check of bit 4 of byte 07.





Now when you pull the switch knob out two levels (furthest out position), the rear fog light is actuated. It displays an orange icon on the gauge cluster to let you know it's on:








And if you leave it on when shutting the car off it gives you a little message:




I actually used this for the first time recently in a huge rain storm on the freeway where it was hard to see. Made me feel a little better about not getting rear ended!
 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Wrapped driver's cubby interior with adhesive felt. Store my parking card there and it's much quieter now.

 

njavier03

Ready to race!
Location
NOVA
Very nice build thread and your car looks great!

Sub'd! #TeamCSG hehe
 

Gberg2119

Ready to race!
Location
Philly, PA
Nice build!

So just to go back a ways, I'll need these part numbers for my own jack pad kit? The $278 and $250 for those pre assembled kits is just insane. I'll definitely be going to e-acca or cars245.

8V0802846 - Front Jack Socket Right
8V0802845 - Front Jack Socket Left
8V0802847A - Rear Jack Socket x2
8V0825271 - Front Left Underbody Cover
8V0825272 - Front Right Underbody Cover
8N0804583 - Jack Pad Grommet x2
8N0803855 - Jack Snubber x2
 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Nice build!

So just to go back a ways, I'll need these part numbers for my own jack pad kit? The $278 and $250 for those pre assembled kits is just insane. I'll definitely be going to e-acca or cars245.

8V0802846 - Front Jack Socket Right
8V0802845 - Front Jack Socket Left
8V0802847A - Rear Jack Socket x2
8V0825271 - Front Left Underbody Cover
8V0825272 - Front Right Underbody Cover
8N0804583 - Jack Pad Grommet x2
8N0803855 - Jack Snubber x2

Thanks!

Those are all correct part numbers for jack pad accessories but if you order all of that you're going to have some extra stuff.

If you want to keep it really simple, you can just get 4x Grommets and 4x Snubbers and put a Grommet/Snubber pair in each corner and call it a day. That's what I originally did, but it turns out there are some fancier options.

In the rear, you can replace the Grommet/Snubber combo with the "Rear Jack Socket" piece. You would need two of these, one for each side.

And in the front, there is a special piece that combines the Snubber with a cover. So you still need the Grommet but it replaces the Snubber, and it's called the Front Jack Socket. These are different orientation for each side so they are separate part numbers.

I would probably recommend going with the "fancier" kit as it is more of a complete solution and better underbody protection in the front. To do that you would order:

8V0802846 - Front Jack Socket Right
8V0802845 - Front Jack Socket Left
8V0802847A - Rear Jack Socket x2
8V0825271 - Front Left Underbody Cover
8V0825272 - Front Right Underbody Cover
8N0804583 - Jack Pad Grommet x2

You can see the parts better in this DAP video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcE8zA5iBLY
 

Gberg2119

Ready to race!
Location
Philly, PA
Thanks!

Those are all correct part numbers for jack pad accessories but if you order all of that you're going to have some extra stuff.

If you want to keep it really simple, you can just get 4x Grommets and 4x Snubbers and put a Grommet/Snubber pair in each corner and call it a day. That's what I originally did, but it turns out there are some fancier options.

In the rear, you can replace the Grommet/Snubber combo with the "Rear Jack Socket" piece. You would need two of these, one for each side.

And in the front, there is a special piece that combines the Snubber with a cover. So you still need the Grommet but it replaces the Snubber, and it's called the Front Jack Socket. These are different orientation for each side so they are separate part numbers.

I would probably recommend going with the "fancier" kit as it is more of a complete solution and better underbody protection in the front. To do that you would order:

8V0802846 - Front Jack Socket Right
8V0802845 - Front Jack Socket Left
8V0802847A - Rear Jack Socket x2
8V0825271 - Front Left Underbody Cover
8V0825272 - Front Right Underbody Cover
8N0804583 - Jack Pad Grommet x2

You can see the parts better in this DAP video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcE8zA5iBLY

That's one thing I was confused on. That snubber/grommet combo piece. Do you remove that socket when jacking so the jack pad is contacting the rubber grommet? Fancier setup definitely seems like the way to go.

I saw the DAP video when it was posted and thought that would be great for when I swap wheels. Then I saw the price and I was all :eek:. Understandably they weren't going to mention individual part numbers. No way a couple pieces of plastic and rubber should be $250+.

My Mk6 was kind of annoying to jack and the Mk7's seem even worse without the kit.
 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
That's one thing I was confused on. That snubber/grommet combo piece. Do you remove that socket when jacking so the jack pad is contacting the rubber grommet? Fancier setup definitely seems like the way to go.

I saw the DAP video when it was posted and thought that would be great for when I swap wheels. Then I saw the price and I was all :eek:. Understandably they weren't going to mention individual part numbers. No way a couple pieces of plastic and rubber should be $250+.

My Mk6 was kind of annoying to jack and the Mk7's seem even worse without the kit.

No you do not remove the front socket piece. The rubber grommet goes into the chassis, and the front socket goes into the rubber grommet. Once they are pushed together they basically act as one piece and it would be quite difficult to remove all the time.

What I would recommend is this piece from ECS:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/jack-pad-adapter-priced-each/ecs10724/

It sits on your jack and the "nipple" fits into the front socket.


This is the bottom of the front jack socket that goes into the rubber grommet:



This is the face of the front jack socket that you place the ECS adapter into:




Hopefully that makes more sense with the pics.

Since the rears are flat you would not need to use the ECS piece. Just put your jack right on them.

Here is a pic that shows all the parts you should need as per my previous post:




Normally I'd feel bad suggesting e-acca and the like as DAP & ECS offer a lot of support to the community here, and I like to support them, but I completely agree. A 250-300% markup on these parts is WAY too much.

And if you floor jack your car even relatively often, you will love this kit it makes it so much easier.
 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Detailed the inside of my car thoroughly for the first time in a long time. I keep it pretty clean, but it definitely needed a good vacuuming and touch up. I used Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and I have to say I really like it. Smells good and subtle, no lingering smell, dries matte, good on all surfaces, and does a great job of collecting and retaining dust in a microfiber cloth.

Haven't done anything with the leather seats yet. They are still looking pretty good. I don't have passengers very often so most of the wear is on the driver's seat. Never had leather before so I'm not really sure what products are good to keep it conditioned.

 

nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
Haven't been active on this thread for awhile because not much has changed in the way of the GTI. Have been very busy with work and projects on my house. I did do some winter prep on the car recently so here are a few pics.

Fresh oil and swapped the wheels over. I'm at 15,000 miles now and this is the 3rd oil change.





With the car lifted and the wheels off I took the opportunity to clean the calipers and wheel wells, as well as spray Fluid Film everywhere!





Then I thoroughly cleaned the summer wheels of brake dust and put them in some new OEM VW tire bags I picked up. Matches my blue wall stripe in the garage. :D





Finally, I did an exterior detail. I don't know a ton about detailing but this was the simple process I did: Chemical Guys Citrus Wash to get it nice and clean, then did Mequiar's OG Clay Bar, followed by another wash, and then sealed with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. It was my first time claying and the car is only a little over 2 years old. Not a ton of gunk came off but it was still worthwhile. The sealant was very easy to apply and after all was finished I honestly think the paint looked better than when it was brand new! The sealant is also supposed to hold up much longer than a traditional wax.



 
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