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Quebster's Neverending Story - 2015 GTI S 6MT - The Good, the Bad, the End... and the Resurrection!

Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Worldpacgti said:
My favourite build....top to bottom amazing. Keep it up brother :)
Ps, Im super jelly
Click to expand...

Man, thanks a ton!! Means a lot, no joke. I remember when I first got on these forums and the Facebook group 2-3 years ago and wishing I could do something awesome with the car... honestly can't believe we've done what we've done. I effing love the thing, and will keep at it. :D
 
penguinsgestapo

penguinsgestapo

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Houston, TX
Quebster said:
.

You can seep oil at the headgasket and still hold good compression and have the engine run fine, as noted by my engine builder's previous experience regarding working on an engine where the OEM head stretch bolts had been reused.
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I have also seen this ONE time with ARPs. It turns out that the studs were not seated evenly. One or two had some trash left down in the threaded hole on the block. We ran a tap on all holes, sucked and cleaned everything out, put our ARP grease on the studs and then ran them in BY HAND all the way to the bottom. Took a straight edge and ensured that every single one was the exact same height. Then we put the HG and head on and torqued to spec. No more problems.
 
BravoMike

BravoMike

Go Kart Champion
Location
Indianapolis
Quebster, just got done reading your entire build thread and it’s was fun to follow along on your build!

What engine/trans/dog bone mounts are you currently running? Have you changed form 034 and HPA? If not, has the 034 density mounts been holding up to all the upgraded power and has the HPA mounts caused any more troubles?
 
steddy2112

steddy2112

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Belcamp MD
Car(s)
2016 GTI SE
Quebster said:
I am indeed using the stock PCV at the moment, which I replaced with a newer, used one under the suspicion that my PCV was bad. I've had a VWR catch can system on order since December, the ETA keeps getting pushed back (thanks, ECS).
Build your own separator system honestly. All the ones on the market I've seen are overpriced shite. Yep not even europeon andn am using shite.

Get yourself a good moroso separator, like what diesel big rigs run, and instead of a drain that you empty, run a drain line to the bottom of your oil dipstick. Put a turbo oil restrictor in the line and boom, you'll never have to drain it again, and the restrictor doubles as a sort of check valve, and you won't have to worry about oil loss more than the oil you'll burn. Seen this setup a few DI cars and they work flawlessly
That picture above is actually from before we re-sealed the upper girdle. It's not quite as "wet" in the engine bay now as it was there, but that's the only picture I have for reference. I was burning oil and had oil in Cylinder 4, but since the reseal all has been ok in that regard... I still seem to be seeping oil somewhere and burning it, but I'm not smoking out the exhaust anymore which is good.
Gotcha. You're not running OEM pistons correct? If that's the case, you'll burn oil forver. Aftermarket pistons are usually "loose" because they make more power. Downside is they also usually have more blowby.
You can seep oil at the headgasket and still hold good compression and have the engine run fine, as noted by my engine builder's previous experience regarding working on an engine where the OEM head stretch bolts had been reused.
Never seen more TTY bolts that are actually TTY bolts than these cars lol. Different head/block materials can cause different deflection under high thermal stress if everything isn't up to temp first. Used to happen all the time on GM 3800 V6's that had iron blocks and aluminum heads.
Anyway, the car has been performing pretty well overall. We just finished up the pump tune and are on V2 of the e-blend tune currently. Took her to Mexico last night and she did well, and nothing in the engine bay looked out of place after.

Not sure. Will just keep driving and monitoring... going to throw it back on the rack this week and take a look at everything again. The water pump may be leaking, but I put some coolant in and it's still where I left it, so the leak is extremely minor... enough to where I don't care too much about it to risk taking it to the stealership and having them charge me labor for just looking at it....
A coolant pressure tester from advanced or auto zone will tell you definitively if you have a leak. They're cheapsos too.
Anyway....... will keep everyone posted!
Click to expand...

Garrett turbo 4eva.

Had to put something here or it wouldn't let me post lol.
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
penguinsgestapo said:
I have also seen this ONE time with ARPs. It turns out that the studs were not seated evenly. One or two had some trash left down in the threaded hole on the block. We ran a tap on all holes, sucked and cleaned everything out, put our ARP grease on the studs and then ran them in BY HAND all the way to the bottom. Took a straight edge and ensured that every single one was the exact same height. Then we put the HG and head on and torqued to spec. No more problems.
Click to expand...

Yeah... good to hear. I honestly thing he's just going to have to do it again and I'd like to be there so we can be super anal about it. I think we just need a do-over and a good, thorough cleaning of all the threads. Thanks for information!

BravoMike said:
Quebster, just got done reading your entire build thread and it’s was fun to follow along on your build!

What engine/trans/dog bone mounts are you currently running? Have you changed form 034 and HPA? If not, has the 034 density mounts been holding up to all the upgraded power and has the HPA mounts caused any more troubles?
Click to expand...

I'm still using 034 Engine/Trans and HPA dogbone/puck. They've worked great for me so far. Keep in mind I am just starting to push this thing and we just finished up a pump file and e-blend file for the tune. Feels very strong but pump is probably only a little more than 400 WHP and eblend should be a decent amount more (the timing on that file is awesome)

It won't be until I get fueling that we can really start pushing the thing. I'll definitely keep everything posted in here, though I'm not the most consistent in posting. I really need to update my front page, huh??

steddy2112 said:
Garrett turbo 4eva.

Had to put something here or it wouldn't let me post lol.
Click to expand...

I read through all of that, I sincerely appreciate the informative comments! A couple of replies below:

"Build your own separator system honestly. All the ones on the market I've seen are overpriced shite. Yep not even europeon andn am using shite."

No way I feel comfortable doing something like that. lol! VWR can finally came in today, I may try to install it tomorrow. VWR's has been proven (I've seen with my own eyes) to actually solve the oil surge issue seen under heavy braking/cornering. Have a friend with an R and he had the issue non-stop at the track. He tried Spulen (though not the new one they just released), then APR, then finally VWR with VWR being the only one that worked. It's expensive as hell, I agree, but I do know it works!

"Gotcha. You're not running OEM pistons correct? If that's the case, you'll burn oil forver. Aftermarket pistons are usually "loose" because they make more power. Downside is they also usually have more blowby."

Right, IE Tuscan rods and IE/Mahle pistons/rings. Makes sense I suppose, but I don't know anyone else with a built Mk7 that is burning oil on the outside of the engine to where it stinks up the cabin. Blow-by is one thing, but oil getting on the outside of the engine somehow and burning is another :(

Still have my fingers crossed that the catch can will help, but not too hopeful.

" A coolant pressure tester from advanced or auto zone will tell you definitively if you have a leak. They're cheapsos too."

Nice! I'll take a look at them. The question still becomes, is it worth risking the dealership for a warranty... If the leak is tiny, which it seems to be so far, I don't mind topping off the coolant tank now and then.
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Hi all! Been a bit since I've posted, wanted to give an update. I got my front page mostly updated, but still need to add the newest stuff.

Car is running really well. I still smell burning oil, but my oil level hasn't dropped any noticeable amount since last oil change, though that was only 200 miles ago. Obviously will keep monitoring. I do still plan to have my head re-done, would prefer my headgasket to not be seeping. Picture of my findings last time I had her on the lift:



Few more additions, got the VWR catch can installed:





Also installed the overpriced ethanol sensor (or, more accurately, lack of unleaded gas sensor) since we're tuning for E. Now I can make sure I have consistent mixes between tanks of gas. Install was super easy, except for the b*tch of a clamp on one of the OEM hoses.





Oh, and I got my meth going again, ready for the next Texas summer. Anyway, car doesn't feel too much faster than the IS38 was right now, I need to race either an IS38 GTI, a stock 6th Gen Camaro SS, or a C7 'Vette, and I'd have a pretty good idea of where I'm at I think. Or I suppose I could go to a dyno [emoji14]

I may actually do that this week just to see how she looks right now. Place around here does 3 pulls for $65 on a Dynojet, I dyno'd my IS38 there last year but they didn't give me a fan so I had lots of heat soak. I won't make the same mistakes this time.

Just need fueling. As far as that goes, I have the Precision Raceworks Stage 4 LPFP (with dual 450's and all fuel lines) kit in my possession, but am going to mail the pump back to them this week so they can bring it up to their latest revision.



I also ordered a Torqbyte controller to control a 450 pump without worry and for easier tuning. The 2nd pump will likely be boost-activated. Once I get the pump back, I should be able to drop the pump right in without replacing anything else yet, and we should be able to squeeze some more power out of the otherwise stock fuel system. I'll leave the 2nd pump powered off for now.

Then, I'm just waiting on the MPI kit to be back in stock... the Bosch injectors are on backorder. Will be ordering their MPI kit with the bigger 1300cc injectors.

Anyway, that's all for now. Cheers!

 
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Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
teemmy said:
Does your VWR catch can seep oil? That may be cause of your oil burning smell... Mine definitely leaks some oil at the top.
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Not that I've noticed. For the record, though, I just installed the catch can a week or two ago and the oil burning has been going on since I got the car back from the engine build. Definitely has nothing to do with the catch can. In fact, was hoping that just maybe the catch can would help (if say, the seeping was due to excess pressure in the crankcase or something from a bad PCV system)
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Front page updated to include more goodies and the following:

Engine Build:

  • IE Tuscan Rods (rifle drilled)
  • IE/Mahle Piston Set
  • IE/Mahle Rod Bearing Set
  • Ferrea Valve Spring Kit (To rev engine to 8.5k RPM)
  • ARP Head stud kit
I think I have it fully updated now...
 
Last edited:
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Hey all!

I'm sorry I haven't updated in quite a while. I do finally have some good news. We got the car back on the lift a few weeks ago and noticed the headgasket was totally dry. Turns out the oil seep was coming from the one piece the shop didn't replace during the build: the plastic timing chain cover. It warps under heat which is fine until you take it off and put it back on.

So, we replaced the cover and voila! NO MORE OIL BURNING!!! Super big sigh of relief there. Main issue solved. Now, working out a few other gremlins. Sometimes I get capped at 15psi on WOT. I managed to catch this a couple times and found my torque limiter is really low. Because of that, ECU is only requesting around that much boost also, so it’s not wastegate or DV related. My tuner (613B6) thinks the car is putting itself into some kind of safe mode, though it's definitely not the limp mode you'd get from EPC light.

Also, sometimes I get P039B - Cylinder 1 Pressure Too High fault code along with P130A - Cylinder Disabling which throws EPC. Usually when I'm banging on it. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all, even after banging on it all night. So not sure what's going on. Need to do a full leakdown and compression test methinks.

Otherwise the car runs great. I took it to a dyno (2nd time at this dyno, they aren't great. going to go to another one when I can). I only got 407/362, which is a bit lower than expected. This was on E30 tune. However I logged and noticed we didn't hit our boost target by 1 or 2 PSI. 1 PSI on the BOSS600 is around 10-12 WHP I think, and I hit boost target when logging on the streets. So I think I'm sitting around 420 WHP on the e-blend tune, stock fueling. Dyno below, note the awesome turbo flutter:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT5cCovF8dU



Lastly, I should have my revised Stage 4 LPFP from Precision Raceworks, along with their MPI kit with the bigger 1300 cc injectors this week or next. Then it's on to full E85 and shooting for 550+ WHP. And I need to get my ass back to the track!! Need better track tires. Way too many things to spend money on.


Later for now!
 
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MonkeyMD

MonkeyMD

Autocross Champion
Quebster said:
Front page updated to include more goodies and the following:

Engine Build:

  • Ferrea Valve Spring Kit (To rev engine to 8.5k RPM)
Click to expand...


  • So can you actually disable rev limiter to be able to rev that high and is there any benefit in the gti engine. Feel like it's not built for high rpm power.

    Very cool btw.
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
MonkeyMD said:
So can you actually disable rev limiter to be able to rev that high and is there any benefit in the gti engine. Feel like it's not built for high rpm power.



Very cool btw.
Click to expand...



Yes you can, with Maestro you can do pretty much anything. The benefit mainly depends on your turbo. The BOSS600 will still be making power past 7k RPM from my understanding. So in other words, to get the most out of my turbo, I need to be able to rev past 7k.

All of the other internals are good to 8.5k as long as you have a valve spring kit, according to IE. But I do also have a Fluidampr which gives me more peace of mind.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Diggs24 said:
You latest vid cracks me up. Glad to see it's running good.
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Lol, thanks man! I have really been enjoying the car now that we got some issues worked out. Honestly the fact that the oil seep wasn’t from the head gasket or the ARP head studs took such a huge cloud of gloom off the car, and ever since we replaced the timing chain cover everything had been pretty solid. No more burning oil.

In case anyone is curious what Diggs is talking about, I made a little video last Sunday just for kicks, mainly to record the turbo noises that the car is making. I ended up having a lot of fun editing and went a little overboard.

Let me know what you think! You’ll probably need to view it in YouTube to get the full 2.7k @ 60fps goodness.

https://youtu.be/5RQoRvYIIow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
D

Dubstro

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Texas
Car(s)
2016 2dr GTI 6MT
Quebster said:
Lol, thanks man! I have really been enjoying the car now that we got some issues worked out. Honestly the fact that the oil seep wasn’t from the head gasket or the ARP head studs took such a huge cloud of gloom off the car, and ever since we replaced the timing chain cover everything had been pretty solid. No more burning oil.

In case anyone is curious what Diggs is talking about, I made a little video last Sunday just for kicks, mainly to record the turbo noises that the car is making. I ended up having a lot of fun editing and went a little overboard.

Let me know what you think! You’ll probably need to view it in YouTube to get the full 2.7k @ 60fps goodness.

https://youtu.be/5RQoRvYIIow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Awesome build! I think your car is my car’s role model.

Agreed with Diggs, your video cracked me up too. Lol, at the Las Colinas bit. That Looks like a clean MK4 at the end of your vid, btw.
 
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