GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Eurodyne Updates

drrck

Go Kart Champion
Location
Zeeland, MI, USA
That's what I'm saying basically is I can't tune with the meth cause I can't log with the meth active. I'm just not familiar with maestro and how you do it. Could I log with the jb4 and tune accordingly with maestro

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

You'd have to log using the JB4 then I guess?
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
You'd have to log using the JB4 then I guess?
That's pretty much what I figured and it shouldn't matter what method of logging or how the logging is done as long as proper parameters are logged.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

TDI Matt

Ready to race!
Location
tucson
I am still looking for another 91 octane user to compare logs to. This was done at 24/91 today 77F ambient with wicked timing pull.

I am entertaining maestro but fear I will not get much more than I have here, but I would love to be told otherwise. Oil temps were 220F

I know I am leaving power on the table with 91 but that is what I have.

Why is the timing pull so severe? It’s down at times to 2 degrees advanced only

https://datazap.me/u/phsycomatt89/91oct-24psi-is38?log=0&data=1
 
Last edited:

Crud_muffin

Ready to race!
Location
US
Car(s)
e-Golf
I am still looking for another 91 octane user to compare logs to. This was done at 24/91 today 77F ambient with wicked timing pull.

I am entertaining maestro but fear I will not get much more than I have here, but I would love to be told otherwise. Oil temps were 220F

I know I am leaving power on the table with 91 but that is what I have.

Why is the timing pull so severe?

https://datazap.me/u/phsycomatt89/91oct-24psi-is38?log=0&data=1
Saw your log. Cyl 3 seems to be the biggest. Just out of curiosity, I see you have step colder RS7 plugs. Have you ever tried step 2 colder or possibly the NGK racing version of the same heat range plug? Reason I ask is because APR gives example of a colder plug as the 2 step colder NGK racing plugs (NGK-R7437-9). I know they're $$$ but with more volatile octane like we have with ACN91, it might illeviate the plug as a preignition source.
 

jrah

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Pennsylvania
AZ - that's a lot of timing pull. I've seen some posts stating that the knock sensors in the GTI are very sensitive. Do you possibly have some vibration that is causing the knock sensors to show false readings? Perhaps an unbalanced wheel. I also see in your signature that you don't mention any upgraded mounts - maybe the power you're putting down has trashed the stock mounts and that is causing excessive vibrations. Just throwing some things out there to consider - not stating anything as a fact. Good luck getting that beast up to its full potential.
 

TDI Matt

Ready to race!
Location
tucson
Both good points, thanks. I need to add the 034 full set for motor mounts. Those did help.

I thought about another step colder plugs but figured I’d see them pop up on here if needed. I just feel like even for 91 it’s weak. I mean you can see the torque.

I ran heat range 8’s in my vrt and it didn’t seem to like it. But I may look into different plugs. The timing pull is discouraging. Will maestro do anything? It was making 23 psi peak when doing the math.
 
Last edited:

Crud_muffin

Ready to race!
Location
US
Car(s)
e-Golf
Interesting find on the gap!

I have to correct myself, this is just knock not some catastrophic pre-ignition type of thing. Step colder like you have should be golden. Your torque figures from the log look mega, in a good way. I hope you can sort it out my man.
 

cW6mT mKviGTi

Ready to race!
Location
Massapequa, NY
When i did my service on my B8 S4 i purchased a set of OEM plugs. When i checked the gaps they ranged from .034 to .028. I then took my sweet time and regapped them to spec

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

TDI Matt

Ready to race!
Location
tucson
Interesting find on the gap!

I have to correct myself, this is just knock not some catastrophic pre-ignition type of thing. Step colder like you have should be golden. Your torque figures from the log look mega, in a good way. I hope you can sort it out my man.

Thanks, but I’ve been told that’s pretty low for engine figures. I honestly don’t know if that’s hp or what it’s measured in.
 

Lrlooly

Passed Driver's Ed
Can someone give me a small run through of what the latest Eurodyne stage 1 feels like? How is the power? How do the shifts feel like with the extra power- smooth or hard? How is stage 1 tcu in regards to what rpm it shifts under normal load? I’m thinking of switching from APR.
 

16gtiguy

Ready to race!
Location
Oahu, HI
Can someone give me a small run through of what the latest Eurodyne stage 1 feels like? How is the power? How do the shifts feel like with the extra power- smooth or hard? How is stage 1 tcu in regards to what rpm it shifts under normal load? I’m thinking of switching from APR.

Personally I would not switch unless you are going with a custom tune and even then I would keep the APR DSG tune. There has been a lot of drama on the eurodyne dsg tunes. I personally liked my first stage 1 tune but it limited my torque to 400nm now my new tune won't down shift til it hits 2500rpm even in cruise control so I have to manual upshift all the time
 

crxgator

Autocross Champion
Location
Raleigh, NC
Car(s)
All the MQBs
Is there any benefit for buying a used cable as opposed to new? If I buy a used cable I would still have to buy everything else right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

worldacgti

Go Kart Champion
Yea there is. I bought my powertap used for 100. credits are 499 for the regular base tunes.....that saves you 100 dollars as a new powertap with credits is 699..

If you can find a used tap, go for it
 
Top