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Post your dashcam mount pictures please

C

chiefhiawatha

Ready to race!
Location
Chicago
Lookin at various dashcam options, anyone have a super clean install that they’d like to share? Would want dual dashcam I’m sure.


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C

cw_tdi14

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MD
Not sure what your looking for but it's pretty easy to hide the cables along the headliner. I could clean up my wires a little bit, but they are completely blocked by the rear view mirror. As for a rear dashcam, it's hard to hide it out of the way since it need to be in the center of the rear window. It will always be visible to you as the driver from your rearview mirror.
 

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C

CBR2

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
cw_tdi14 said:
Also, this is a pretty good thread for how to wire it and everything.

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10375&highlight=dash+cam
Click to expand...


Thanks for posting link.

I do not know why it would be necessary or desirable to tap fuse box and run wiring up A-Pillar (making sure not to compromise A-Pillar air bag) across windshield under headliner, etc. to the rear view mirror area, when there is already a power source located at rear mirror area -- the overhead center console. The power supplied to overhead console (for interior map lights) is already more then sufficient to run a low current dash cam.

I've separately posted request for photos of overhead console removal / opening ( http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37439 ) but if I don't receive any leads, I'll just have at it myself and will post relevant photos

Installing a rear cam looks to be relatively easy given rear 12v lighter outlet but to do it right would require using existing rubber conduit / grommets in which to run wiring from body of car to hatch. Not sure yet how to remove conduit / grommets from body and hatch without breaking tabs so would like advice on this too.
 
C

CBR2

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
CW_TDI, how did you run wiring from body of car to hatch? Did you snake wiring through existing flexible rubber conduit/grommet? And if so how do you remove rubber conduit without breaking tabs / clips?
 
E

ecsta

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
2017 R
CBR said:
Thanks for posting link.

I do not know why it would be necessary or desirable to tap fuse box and run wiring up A-Pillar (making sure not to compromise A-Pillar air bag) across windshield under headliner, etc. to the rear view mirror area, when there is already a power source located at rear mirror area -- the overhead center console. The power supplied to overhead console (for interior map lights) is already more then sufficient to run a low current dash cam.

I've separately posted request for photos of overhead console removal / opening ( http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37439 ) but if I don't receive any leads, I'll just have at it myself and will post relevant photos

Installing a rear cam looks to be relatively easy given rear 12v lighter outlet but to do it right would require using existing rubber conduit / grommets in which to run wiring from body of car to hatch. Not sure yet how to remove conduit / grommets from body and hatch without breaking tabs so would like advice on this too.
Click to expand...

It's soo easy to hide the wiring up the weather stripping, over the A pillar, and tucked into the headliner to the dash cam is the reason people don't bother taking the centre overhead console apart. The other reason is that from other posts people have had trouble getting the centre console back together and looking clean (at least from the pics i've seen it hasn't looked "right"). If someone posted better pictures/guide it might be more tempting to do.

For the rear dash cam, if you take panels off it will be super easy to run a cable. Just look at taillight install videos and run the wires the same way they do, because they run them from the outer taillights to the inner, which is essentially the path you would take. And then running from the rear to the front you just tuck it into the weather stripping. There's tons of space for a thin video coax cable.
 
C

cw_tdi14

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MD
CBR said:
CW_TDI, how did you run wiring from body of car to hatch? Did you snake wiring through existing flexible rubber conduit/grommet? And if so how do you remove rubber conduit without breaking tabs / clips?
Click to expand...

I ran the wiring to the hatch by tucking it into the weatherstripping. No need to remove anything, the cable will tuck behind it nicely if you just peel the edge back just like in this picture.



To get it to the actual hatch section, I basically followed the tail light harness install guide for the LED tail lights to remove the top plastic pieces for the hatch and snaked the cable through the same grommet they use in those steps.
 
BxGTI

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
CBR said:
CW_TDI, how did you run wiring from body of car to hatch? Did you snake wiring through existing flexible rubber conduit/grommet? And if so how do you remove rubber conduit without breaking tabs / clips?
Click to expand...



If you decide to run power from the overhead console make sure that you use a kit for direct wire installation that converts from 12V to 4 or 5 Volts otherwise you camera will not last long.

On the rubber conduit on the hatch you
Don't need to remove them if you can snake the wire with a soft cable or even an extra long zip tie, the clips are very easy to brake.

Also not everyone wants to mess around with things that can mess something up and not have warranty cover something by connecting stuff directly to you electrical system, hence why people are using the fuse box , many ways to do it, and you can bypass the airbags as well


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C

CBR2

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
BxGTI said:
If you decide to run power from the overhead console make sure that you use a kit for direct wire installation that converts from 12V to 4 or 5 Volts otherwise you camera will not last long.

On the rubber conduit on the hatch you
Don't need to remove them if you can snake the wire with a soft cable or even an extra long zip tie, the clips are very easy to brake.

Also not everyone wants to mess around with things that can mess something up and not have warranty cover something by connecting stuff directly to you electrical system, hence why people are using the fuse box , many ways to do it, and you can bypass the airbags as well


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Click to expand...


Thanks. I've now taken a look at video which shows wiring for European LED lights so I've now got a sense of how to remove panels in rear without breaking anything. They removed rubber conduit on one side, but I agree should be possible to snake wire through (without perforating rubber tube) without actually removing conduit. I imagine that it would be a bitch if clips broke as water would then leak in necessitating replacement of conduit necessitating disconnection of wires in hatch for lights and heated glass necessitating removal of connectors to get wires through conduit and reattaching connectors assuming you have not messed up the pins, blah, blah, blah. Clearly it would be best to keep disassembly to minimum especially given cost of VW replacement parts.

On wiring front, I'm not a fan of running wires behind weather stripping due to potential for abrasion resulting from repeated door closings and door movement over time and I'd rather stay away from air bags if possible. As to connecting load to overhead console wiring, I would think that from electrical perspective this is really equivalent to running load off interior fuse box as the power leads in console are already off of a fused connection (it's not like running a heavy amplifier load directly off battery using separate fused connection, for example). I would also think that the light electrical load of a dash cam will not create any voltage spikes in circuit beyond that created by turning overhead lights on and off creating any havoc with electronic modules elsewhere in car. Finally, I suspect that overhead console lights are grounded to body of car at console area (and not through separate ground wire) so opening up console area allows grounding of dash cam circuit is same area which I think is also good.

Finally, dash cam uses a USB connection for power, i.e, a 5v lead, so you are right about going from 12v to 5v (this is also an issue when using a tap-a-fuse). Speaking of which, tap-a-fuse product is not so good when you need to change fuse in same area. I used one once -- never again.

This is the first car I've owned without a factory service manual or factory service electronic files which is already proving to be a giant PITA.
 
BxGTI

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
CBR said:
Thanks. I've now taken a look at video which shows wiring for European LED lights so I've now got a sense of how to remove panels in rear without breaking anything. They removed rubber conduit on one side, but I agree should be possible to snake wire through (without perforating rubber tube) without actually removing conduit. I imagine that it would be a bitch if clips broke as water would then leak in necessitating replacement of conduit necessitating disconnection of wires in hatch for lights and heated glass necessitating removal of connectors to get wires through conduit and reattaching connectors assuming you have not messed up the pins, blah, blah, blah. Clearly it would be best to keep disassembly to minimum especially given cost of VW replacement parts.

On wiring front, I'm not a fan of running wires behind weather stripping due to potential for abrasion resulting from repeated door closings and door movement over time and I'd rather stay away from air bags if possible. As to connecting load to overhead console wiring, I would think that from electrical perspective this is really equivalent to running load off interior fuse box as the power leads in console are already off of a fused connection (it's not like running a heavy amplifier load directly off battery using separate fused connection, for example). I would also think that the light electrical load of a dash cam will not create any voltage spikes in circuit beyond that created by turning overhead lights on and off creating any havoc with electronic modules elsewhere in car. Finally, I suspect that overhead console lights are grounded to body of car at console area (and not through separate ground wire) so opening up console area allows grounding of dash cam circuit is same area which I think is also good.

Finally, dash cam uses a USB connection for power, i.e, a 5v lead, so you are right about going from 12v to 5v (this is also an issue when using a tap-a-fuse). Speaking of which, tap-a-fuse product is not so good when you need to change fuse in same area. I used one once -- never again.

This is the first car I've owned without a factory service manual or factory service electronic files which is already proving to be a giant PITA.
Click to expand...



Just to be clear, I'm not an expert on car electronics but Im handy so I like to do all my stuff because no one will do or care like one does :).

I saw the comment about tucking the wire behind the weatherstripping and I didn't do it this way, what I did was remove the weather strip from the top all the way down, this will expose an opening where the wire will go without touching anything else once everything goes back in place, my dash cam and radar detector were installed almost 3 years ago with no issues, anyways the cable will go behind the headliner and A pillar cover.

On the hatch rubber thingy I broke the clips and instead of replacing it I just used clear silicone, again that was almost 3 years ago and still in good shape, I've snaked cables several times after that (Euro tail lights, second rear dashcam ) and no issues .
I


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C

CBR2

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
BxGTI said:
Just to be clear, I'm not an expert on car electronics but Im handy so I like to do all my stuff because no one will do or care like one does :).
Click to expand...

Absolutely.

I saw the comment about tucking the wire behind the weatherstripping and I didn't do it this way, what I did was remove the weather strip from the top all the way down, this will expose an opening where the wire will go without touching anything else once everything goes back in place, my dash cam and radar detector were installed almost 3 years ago with no issues, anyways the cable will go behind the headliner and A pillar cover.
Click to expand...
Certainly better than running wire behind door seals. Generally, if wire subject to abrasion or rubbing against sharp edges (if only due to weight of wire and fact that car is a moving platform), I use wire loom or friction tape to protect wires and also clips and cable ties to hold wires in place.

On the hatch rubber thingy I broke the clips and instead of replacing it I just used clear silicone, again that was almost 3 years ago and still in good shape, I've snaked cables several times after that (Euro tail lights, second rear dashcam ) and no issues .
I


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Click to expand...
Saw video of rubber conduit being removed from one end. Still, I'll first try snaking string through with soft lubricated snake and, if successful, then pulling lubricated wire (lubed with wax-type lube electricians use to pull wire) through as safest action would be to leave rubber conduit in place.
 
BxGTI

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
This is the way I mounted my camera and radar detector



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mingo1

mingo1

New member
Location
Toronto
I'd like to install a Thinkware F770 dash cam to my Mk7 Golf. I have a simple mirror so no power wires to tap into.

Any tips on tapping a switched wire in the sunroof switch / light cluster above the mirror?
 
C

Cypresser

New member
I will be doing this soon, went with a BlackSys CH-200 2 Channel Dash cam. Many many good reviews. How easy is the head liner on the golf r to pull at without destroying it?


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