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Dkm stage 3 clutch

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I would recommend buying an oem tb and using that. My TB is making noise so I'm going to have to pull my tranny again. The quality of the oem does look much better than the one that comes with the kit

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Blueballs

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SLC, UT
How long would you say it took you to install the DKM clutch? I’m on the fence as if I want to do it myself. My concern is if the install went south, that it would take time to get it right. I work a lot, and don’t always have time on my hands, but considering trying it because shops want to charge me $650+ for the install, up here in UT. I do have a garage, but I don’t have a lift, or a transmission jack. I just have the tools needed to remove/install, and jack stands. Is it worth tackling it myself to save $$ for a shop to do it?


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Blueballs

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SLC, UT
I believe it's m5x1.0 but I'll double check later when I get home

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Did you ever find the exact specs for these bolts, so that I could also buy some stronger ones to install when I get this clutch?


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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
How long would you say it took you to install the DKM clutch? I’m on the fence as if I want to do it myself. My concern is if the install went south, that it would take time to get it right. I work a lot, and don’t always have time on my hands, but considering trying it because shops want to charge me $650+ for the install, up here in UT. I do have a garage, but I don’t have a lift, or a transmission jack. I just have the tools needed to remove/install, and jack stands. Is it worth tackling it myself to save $$ for a shop to do it?


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If your capable of doing it yourself then I say do it. It's not hard. No I can have the transmission out in 1 1/2 hours or less, putting it back in was a little more difficult cause my tranny jack is garbage and don't work well for transaxle. The most tedious part is tightening the pp down cause the are 27 bolts and have to go star/criss cross pattern to tighten and only tight each one 1 turn at a time then once it's all seated take each bolt out one at a time and put loctite on and torque to 10ft lbs. I have to pull mine out again to change the TB/slave assembly again.

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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Did you ever find the exact specs for these bolts, so that I could also buy some stronger ones to install when I get this clutch?


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I will double check when I get home on the thread but I'm almost positive that's it and they are 3/4in long or about 19mm

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Blueballs

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SLC, UT
That joint where the clip is where it leaks from. It is very flimsy. They are sending me everything minus flywheel and it will be here tomorrow. I'm going to put it all together and see if the current clutch works ok. I sure no fluid got on the discs to contaminate them so I will have an extra set of discs and a pressure plate.


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Would the OEM throw out bearing work with this DKM Stage 3 clutch? Just wondering if I should buy the OEM TOB and use that instead of the one DKM provides, just so I don’t get this problem during the install.


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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Would the OEM throw out bearing work with this DKM Stage 3 clutch? Just wondering if I should buy the OEM TOB and use that instead of the one DKM provides, just so I don’t get this problem during the install.


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Yes. Dkm said there was no difference between the 2. I ordered a oem to put in now after I pull it back out. Comparing the 2 side by side the oem one looks like better build quality. I'll look for the email when they told me that

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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Just a little update, clutch has about 460 miles on it there is definitely chatter not to bad at all with the stock motor/tranny mount I still believe I have a tb issue. I really like the clutch, engagement is good, pedal is great, I still have a little bit of shudder on take off in 1st and reverse but it's getting better and better, still have another 250 miles to till I reach dkm's recommended 700 mile city break in. I have not got on the throttle very hard and make smooth subtle shifts. I installed my bri stage 2 mounts today and they don't lie about giving up comfort for performance, the clutch chatter is more audible and noticeable in the cab now everything is louder and ther are more vibrations but I don't mind any of it car feels much more solid. I just ordered a fluidampr so when that comes in I'll install it and report back on how it is and how it helped

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GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I started paying more attention to my stock clutch noise. With BFI stage 2 mounts there is a TOB noise unless the clutch is in. Maybe what your hearing is normal but focusing on the clutch made it more noticeable
 

GTIManEG

Ready to race!
Location
Elk Grove
I would not install the factory TB with this kit. It has a spacer on it. This will move the engagement up on the pedal, possibly causing over engagement of the pressure plate.
I would check that DKM sees that and can be 100% that it's okay.

I just hit 400miles and are having the same clutch stutter as you, as the miles keep going it's less and less. Can't wait to turn my car back up!

 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I started paying more attention to my stock clutch noise. With BFI stage 2 mounts there is a TOB noise unless the clutch is in. Maybe what your hearing is normal but focusing on the clutch made it more noticeable
Your probably right. After the first tb problem I am probably just being a little anal on the noise. I sent Dkm a video of the noise and they think it's chatter which it probably is but idc I'm not pulling the tranny again until I have to or I break something. I just want to break it in so I can put my is38 in.

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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I would not install the factory TB with this kit. It has a spacer on it. This will move the engagement up on the pedal, possibly causing over engagement of the pressure plate.
I would check that DKM sees that and can be 100% that it's okay.

I just hit 400miles and are having the same clutch stutter as you, as the miles keep going it's less and less. Can't wait to turn my car back up!

I know it has that little spacer. I have also read that the oem one will mellow out the chatter but I'm not putting the oem one in until I have to pull the tranny back out. So it's all straying in there till I break something. Dkm said there would be no issue with the oem one. I just want to be done so I can put in my is38

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tissue

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Europe
I know it has that little spacer. I have also read that the oem one will mellow out the chatter but I'm not putting the oem one in until I have to pull the tranny back out. So it's all straying in there till I break something. Dkm said there would be no issue with the oem one. I just want to be done so I can put in my is38

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Im wondering whats that spacer designed for? Dampen the vibrations to the pedal? Move the engagement point closer to the firewall ? I installed the sachs SRE clutch with the oem TB (with spacer) and now its making noise. I noticed that the aftermarket clutches come with TB that doesnt have the spacer. I just got the Sachs performace bearing which is much better quality. Its all metal (not plastic like the oem one) and it doesnt have the spacer. I hope that i didnt damage my pressure plate . Can anyone confrim that running aftermarket clutch with TB that has spacer on it doesnt damage the pressure plate ? im about to pull the tranny anyway but im scared lol
 
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