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ECS tuning SS clutch line

Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
Last edited:
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Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Tigsel said:
Probably best to leave that thing in there, see here: https://www.fte-automotive.com/en/products/clutch-hydraulic/vibration-canceler.html
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I've driven cars without it though and not sure it makes much of a difference. Seems it's purpose is to remove vibration/noise? Not sure how much it would help if you're running an upgraded clutch. I guess the only thing left is to remove it and see how the car drives... it can always be reinstalled. Now we just need to figure out the correct ECS line.
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
I had a lengthy chat with ECS support discussing this, he said the line is just their one and only SS line for the Mk7, you can plug it into the swirl valve, but it’s also long enough to bypass the swirl valve.


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nicholam77

Go Kart Champion
Location
Minneapolis
navindralr said:
I double checked the ECS instructions and they say to leave the dampener and hook up the line directly to it which is why I got confused when people said that ECS actually sells a longer line made specifically to remove this valve. Have you already purchased your kit? I can't really see any detrimental reason in removing it.. I'm also not an automotive engineer though. I feel like the clutch disengagement is slow from 1 to 2.. It almost feels like the hydraulic fluid is being depressurized slowly causing the clutch to disengage slower than I would like. I think that valve is the cause. Honestly it probably happens in all gears but i notice it most at lower speeds hence when first starting the car off in motion.
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I have not purchased yet. Hoping to get it as an xmas gift :)

I don't see why it couldn't be removed, either, if you don't care about dampening vibrations. Seems like a similar principal to the bleeder delay removal that everyone does. My big gripe is also starting off in 1st which is my main reason for wanting to try deleting the swirl valve.

Quebster said:
I had a lengthy chat with ECS support discussing this, he said the line is just their one and only SS line for the Mk7, you can plug it into the swirl valve, but it’s also long enough to bypass the swirl valve.
Click to expand...


This was my understanding. They only make one length line and it is long enough to bypass the swirl valve if you want to.

Did ECS support offer any opinions on whether one should do that or not (any downsides) and what the effect might be?
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
nicholam77 said:
Did ECS support offer any opinions on whether one should do that or not (any downsides) and what the effect might be?
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Yep:

"As far as we know the valve causes a fluid restriction through the unit which is there to dampen clutch engagement and soften clutch operation, leaving a lag and slightly numb & delayed characteristic which is favored by the average driver. For those who want a sportier more direct driving experience, the unrestricted fluid passage after valve removal results in, faster, firmer clutch engagement and disengagement."
 
Quebster

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
For the record, we are almost done with the build and will be installing the ECS SS line along with bypassing the "swirl valve." However, this is at the same time as going from Southbend Stage 2 to Stage 3 clutch, and installing the ECS Bleeder valve as well, though I did have the delay valve mod done already.

I'm not sure my opinion/input on this mod (the swirl valve bypass) will be worth much since so much will be changed at once, but I'll let you know how everything feels with both the swirl valve bypassed and the ECS Bleeder block installed!
 
N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Quebster said:
For the record, we are almost done with the build and will be installing the ECS SS line along with bypassing the "swirl valve." However, this is at the same time as going from Southbend Stage 2 to Stage 3 clutch, and installing the ECS Bleeder valve as well, though I did have the delay valve mod done already.

I'm not sure my opinion/input on this mod (the swirl valve bypass) will be worth much since so much will be changed at once, but I'll let you know how everything feels with both the swirl valve bypassed and the ECS Bleeder block installed!
Click to expand...

Even though you're changing the setup completely, it might be possible to tell if you are still getting delay/drag from the delay/vibration dampener. It feels kind of like a "dragging" through the line and you should be able to tell if it's the clutch or the actual valve... at least I can with an SRE clutch. I know that's a completely different clutch and flywheel setup but if you notice, let me know. I'm gonna do the line regardless, but not anytime soon. Maybe next month, but I would like to hear your findings.
 
RadioFlyer

RadioFlyer

Go Kart Champion
Location
Southeast, USA on a track
Car(s)
GSX-Rs
LOL

Where did y'all come up with "swirl valve" ??

 
N

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Installed the ECS clutch line and deleted that bullshit valve. I posted this pic in another thread but here it is again. Install was simple. Clutch engagement is much better. No hang ups. If anyone is doing the upgraded line and debating on installing it into the valve or removing the valve to bypass it, I would recommend to remove it.

 
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