I don't know, that's just what RJRacing said.
7
Eurodyne Updates
- Thread starter CarlosCanizares
- Start date
I don't know, that's just what RJRacing said.
Got the following stage 2 dsg codes in OBDeleven and ED tool (when reading codes in the transmission option (#2 in the drop down manu). Maybe it is do to not following the procedure mentioned above after dsg adaptation
P177B00 - Clutch 1 Tolerance limit reached
static
P177C00 - Clutch 2 Tolerance limit reached
static
Fault codes found :
21177 :
Code unknown..
P0000
Fault status : 00001011
Active
Active in this driving cycle
Confirmed
Warning lamp off
21178 :
Code unknown..
P0000
Fault status : 00001011
Active
Active in this driving cycle
Confirmed
P177B00 - Clutch 1 Tolerance limit reached
static
P177C00 - Clutch 2 Tolerance limit reached
static
Fault codes found :
21177 :
Code unknown..
P0000
Fault status : 00001011
Active
Active in this driving cycle
Confirmed
Warning lamp off
21178 :
Code unknown..
P0000
Fault status : 00001011
Active
Active in this driving cycle
Confirmed
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Not to be a 'fanboy' (I am far from it...), but the APR TCU tune has worked very well for me since the day I drove it away from the shop. It did well with JB4, and it is doing well with Maestro.
JSoler
Ready to race!
- Location
- Patchogue NY
Did you do the read when the engine was running? You will always get strange codes if you read them while it's running. You can't clear them with the Ed tool unfortunately, you'll need to use obd11 or vcds to clear the transmission codes.
Also don't be alarmed about the tolerance limit reached. That's normal with all dsgs that are tuned, it's because, it sees the increased pressure and assumes that the transmission did so because you have low clutch life, when in reality it's not the case lol. It's increased because you WANT more clutch life and want to avoid slipping which kills the clutch.
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JSoler
Ready to race!
- Location
- Patchogue NY
Did you do the basic settings using tool or vcds? Also, the falling flat on its face, can you elaborate? Does it feel like the clutch disengaged and your rpms freewheeled to redline? Or did it literally like stall out and clutches stayed engaged. Making you feel as if both clutches engaged at the same time? Because I had both problems and had to have some tweaks made with Chris. The chirping is actually your tires as it's upshifting-downshifting at the same time and gets confused. (transmission rotation speed to axles slowed down causing tires to chip momentarily) then it upshifted again but so fast you didn't realize. It was never "confirmed" by him, but I took several videos and watched it happen in logs.
The s mode though was always 3500-3700 on mine before and after the tune other than 2nd gear which 1st shifts into at I think 2500-2700, so I don't know if maybe yours was set different from factory for some strange reason, but it's the way mine had always been.
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Last edited:
Yes this is done with ignition on but engine off. I was worry at first but then I thought this is likely due to clutch pressure increasing beyond certain threshold just that you would think this code should have been taken care of with the tune.
The only reason why I initially checked on the codes was I felt a clunk when shifting from 1 to 2 and 3 gears which I never experience before with stage 1 DSG tune. Maybe this was due to not DSG adaptation not done properly and/or procedure required right after doing the adaptation.
The only reason why I initially checked on the codes was I felt a clunk when shifting from 1 to 2 and 3 gears which I never experience before with stage 1 DSG tune. Maybe this was due to not DSG adaptation not done properly and/or procedure required right after doing the adaptation.
JSoler
Ready to race!
- Location
- Patchogue NY
It's not REQUIRED right after, as the mechatronics unit will eventually adapt, but selecting basic settings and doing the adaptation process right away, definitely speeds the adaptation period up from, SEVERAL days of driving to a single drive. When you pull away after doing the adaptation, be sure to ease into throttle AFTER the clutch had FULLY engaged. So release brake, car moves slowly forward, after it's rolling on its own and the clutch engagement feeling goes away, ease into the throttle and then complete the adaptation drive procedures and drive in 3or5 for 5 mins and 4or6 for 5 mins as odd gears use clutch 1 and evens use clutch 2. This will complete the clutch pressure adaptation that you selected right before the drive
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This. I eased into it on after flashing the updated stage 1 file and it's running well now. I put it in manual mode and got like 5 feet of roll out and then started into the throttle.
Travis9935
Ready to race!
- Location
- Usa
Doesn't it re-adapt down the road, if you drive like Mrs daisy around town won't it learn that style anyway? If it's like the rest of today's modern trannies it will just keep adapting even though you reset it one way.
I did all the adaptations listed using the ED tool. The way you describe it, I'm definitely having the upshift downshift issue. The chirp is not forward propelling but a sudden and sharp slow down, must be when it's downshifting. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened as it threw me forward.
As for "S" mode, I was running stage 1.2 and it always shifting at 3k into gears 3-6. Stage two is now right at 4k.
I haven't come across any other issues still. Take offs and reversing seem fine.
JSoler
Ready to race!
- Location
- Patchogue NY
Ok try flashing stock if it's available. During all the updates he made you may have somehow flashed the wrong box code. Flashing stock resets the box code and will show you the files available for your actual box from then on
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JSoler
Ready to race!
- Location
- Patchogue NY
Yeah lol the easing into the throttle is VERY important
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