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Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-29-2014, 10:44 AM   #21
kevinm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James75 View Post
Could I be a bit cheeky and could you show me or tell me how the Dynamic Light Assist works and appears in the car?


James
Hi James,

If you search for vw dynamic light assist on youtube there are a few videos explaining how it works.

Couple of notes on how it works:
- It only works when the light sensor decides it's dark enough. If you move the light switch from auto to low beam, the DLA will not work until it gets dark.
- To activate it, push the indicator stalk forward once. The stalk in my car springs back to the central position. i'm not sure if it locks forward in mk7's without DLA. You have to do this every time you start the car. It always defaults to off. I changed the coding with vcds so it defaults to on so I no longer have to turn on DLA every time.
- If DLA is on, and you pull back on indicator stalk and quickly release, this disables DLA. If you pull back and hold, this flashes the high beams as you would expect but DLA stays on when you release.
- It only works above 60kmh (39mph). If you are going slower than that and DLA is activated, a second press forward activates manual high beams. These will not be turned off by the DLA. Now this is a cool point I only recently realised: If you are in manual high beam and pull the stalk back, high beams will turn off with DLA turned off. But if you push the stalk forward, it turns on DLA. The DLA will then decide to turn off high beams or keep them on. This is very handy on country roads as you may not be doing the 60kmh to get DLA to work. It also helps when you are accelerating away from a dark junction and want high beams staright away.

I hope this makes sense. If you have any other questions ask away!
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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinm View Post
Hi James,

If you search for vw dynamic light assist on youtube there are a few videos explaining how it works.

Couple of notes on how it works:
- It only works when the light sensor decides it's dark enough. If you move the light switch from auto to low beam, the DLA will not work until it gets dark.
- To activate it, push the indicator stalk forward once. The stalk in my car springs back to the central position. i'm not sure if it locks forward in mk7's without DLA. You have to do this every time you start the car. It always defaults to off. I changed the coding with vcds so it defaults to on so I no longer have to turn on DLA every time.
- If DLA is on, and you pull back on indicator stalk and quickly release, this disables DLA. If you pull back and hold, this flashes the high beams as you would expect but DLA stays on when you release.
- It only works above 60kmh (39mph). If you are going slower than that and DLA is activated, a second press forward activates manual high beams. These will not be turned off by the DLA. Now this is a cool point I only recently realised: If you are in manual high beam and pull the stalk back, high beams will turn off with DLA turned off. But if you push the stalk forward, it turns on DLA. The DLA will then decide to turn off high beams or keep them on. This is very handy on country roads as you may not be doing the 60kmh to get DLA to work. It also helps when you are accelerating away from a dark junction and want high beams staright away.

I hope this makes sense. If you have any other questions ask away!
Thanks - that answers my questions, I had looked at the videos on youtube

Could VCDS be coded so that the value (the speed) DLA works is lowered? Doesn't seem any need from what you have described but just interested.

Much appreciated


James
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Last edited by James75; 07-29-2014 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James75 View Post
Thanks - that answers my questions, I had looked at the videos on youtube

Could VCDS be coded so that the value (the speed) DLA works is lowered? Doesn't seem any need from what you have described but just interested.

Much appreciated


James

I tried to lower the speed but it didn't work. The mk7's are way more complicated coding wise than previous generations. Most tweaks are done in the adaptions and ross-tech still have a lot of work to do on the label files.
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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:01 PM   #24
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That doesn't surprise me. When I had my California Beach (VW Transporter) - there were virtually no tweaks to do, in fact all I had done via VCDS was the change of the MFD between the dials to the German style one which gave you a digital speedo!

Clearly these modern VW's are far more complex Thanks for your help, I'm loving the GTI, particularly the seats, shame that option doesn't appear in the UK


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Old 08-18-2014, 10:17 PM   #25
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A few weeks ago I lifted the boot floor to find this:



The usual suspects (lights/seals) were checked and came back fine. It was eventually chased to the boot hinge. VW don't put a sealant there in the factory, they just rely on the paint to seal it which is a bit crazy. The dealer did a top job finding it and fixing it. Here is the hinge with the sealant applied:



The trim under the hinge and C-pillar trim is hard plastic so there were no wet spots in the headlining.


I have done a few small mods:

I activated traffic sign recognition. As the car has the A5 front assist camera and Discover Pro Nav, it was just a few coding changes. The traffic sign now sits at the top centre of the FIS. Note that it bumped the compass direction down to the outside temp level:





Next I put in door warning lights. This is more tricky to do than on mk5/6 as there are no vacant pins to just plug into. The door warning light pin in the door controller feeds the illuminated door sill. There was no vacant ground pin either. I avoid damaging factory wiring if possible to I built a loom that plugs in between the door module and the factory wiring loom. I split the power and ground in my loom. This way I can remove it again and leave no damage to the factory wiring. Some pics:













Next I replaced the glove box light with the led light that is used as footwell lights in the mk7. It was a nice easy straight swap. Part number of the light is: 5G0 947 409. It was about €8 IIRC. Standard light on left, led on right:










I then fitted led footwell lights to the rear. The holes are in the seat frames. I built my own loom as the pre-made loom by-passes the plugs where the seat loom plugs into the main car loom. This means you cannot remove the seat without cutting the wires for the foot well light. There were empty positions in the plug for seat heating in my car so I used them. Again, my loom plugs in between the front footwell led and factory loom for power so no damage to factory loom.














I then fitted genuine led vanity mirror lights. They are not factory fitted to any VW's to the best of my knowledge. They come as part of a pack on the Seat Leon. They are a straight swap. Part number is: 5F0 947 109 B. Price is €13 each.To remove the existing light, stick a flat tool in from the door side of the light. (Note this light comes in different colours to suit the interior colour)













The most recent mod I have done is the Audi jacking point mod. This mod has been around since the mk4. Parts required are:

8V0 825 271 Qty:1
8V0 825 272 Qty:1
8V0 802 845 Qty:1
8V0 802 846 Qty:1
8V0 802 847 A Qty:2
8V0 804 631 Qty:2

EDIT: A note on the rear jacking pads: There is a mix up on the part numbers. There is a non-A and Rev-A version of the rear pad. They are different lengths so the non-A will not fit Golfs. I ordered 8V0 802 847 without the A at the end. My order must have been mis-picked and I got the Rev A's. The packaging said non-A but I never checked the part number on the pad itself. I did not realise this until Simon (C2K) contacted me after getting the wrong parts. The shorter part in the pics below is the correct one (Rev A). Credit to Simon for the first 3 pics below and figuring it out. I can confirm that the Rev A fits both 3 and 5 door Golfs. I have amended the list above. Apologies for the mis-information.

















I also got the full PR-code list for the car. This is basically the car's DNA and lists out every feature (whether standard or optional) it has.











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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition

Last edited by kevinm; 11-17-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:24 AM   #26
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Very impressed with those mods, they look natural, particularly like the glovebox led.

Sorry to hear you had a leak, but glad you've got it sorted. I shall be picking over this post, particularly your car dna.

My immediate thought is the half alcantara seats, which i think are great but we don't get in the UK, there's the code for them, I wonder why the UK doesn't offer them.

Traffic Sign Display, I take it no RHD UK or Irish Golf's are coming with that as standard and it has to be activated if you want it and of course you need the lane assist camera.

Would be interesting to compare a North American Spec GTI and see the full range of differences.

Interesting to note 'without online services' - does this relate to the nav pro? Can it be 'put back' or 'turned on'.

I am going to digest this some more, fascinating, probably have more questions.

As I said, mods look great

James
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:20 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James75 View Post
Very impressed with those mods, they look natural, particularly like the glovebox led.

Sorry to hear you had a leak, but glad you've got it sorted. I shall be picking over this post, particularly your car dna.

My immediate thought is the half alcantara seats, which i think are great but we don't get in the UK, there's the code for them, I wonder why the UK doesn't offer them.

Traffic Sign Display, I take it no RHD UK or Irish Golf's are coming with that as standard and it has to be activated if you want it and of course you need the lane assist camera.

Would be interesting to compare a North American Spec GTI and see the full range of differences.

Interesting to note 'without online services' - does this relate to the nav pro? Can it be 'put back' or 'turned on'.

I am going to digest this some more, fascinating, probably have more questions.

As I said, mods look great

James
Thanks James,

I'm a sucker for oem mods.

On the traffic sign display, my car is the first RHD mk7 to be fitted with the lane assist camera so there was little information and lots of confusion with option codes. We were all focused on making sure it had the right codes to get Dynamic light assist. I didnt realise that a different option code was required to get Traffic sign recognition until a few weeks before build. I asked the dealer to add it and he said he passed it on to VW Ireland. As my car was a special order, the dealer could not change spec themselves. I never asked why it didnt come coded for traffic sign display, it wasnt worth the aggravation. So I just coded it in. I can't see why it could not be factory coded.

The online services refers to Car-Net and requires Premium bluetooth so no retrofitting possible there.I didnt get Premium bluetooth as I'm an iphone user so the RSAP would be of no use to me.
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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:52 AM   #28
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I agree OEM mods are fantastic. I tried to make sure on my last VW that all mods were OEM to give the impression that it had come off the production line as it was.

The code for Traffic Sign Recognition isn't on my build codes so I presume I won't have it added. I've got a build week now so there's no way of really changing it and anyway, like you I had enough difficulty confirming dynamic light assist with the dealer. So I guess I will need to add it via VCDS.

I might speak to UK VW customer services and just see what they say.

I am not sure what Bluetooth goes into UK, I know from previous VW experience, premium and what exactly that is can be debatable, like you I am an iPhone user, so I am aware of the RSAP.

This is a fantastic thread, very helpful. Buying and ordering a car shouldn't be complicated, just seems some of the options aren't clear.

James




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Old 08-26-2014, 01:58 PM   #29
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OK so here's a bit more detail into the rear footwell led light mod. I didn't intend to make a how-to so pictures are a bit thin on the ground. The parts required are:

LED light 5G0 947 409 Qty: 2
Plug 1J0 972 923 Qty: 4
Plug 191 972 712 Qty: 2
Repair wire for 1J0 plug: 000 979 021 E Qty: 4
Repair wire for 191 plug: 000 979 129 E Qty: 2
0.5mm2 thin wall automotive wire 15m
Loom tape 000 979 950
*The VW loom tape comes in 10m lengths and is a rip off (~10 each). Just google "Coroplast furry tape". You will get a 25m roll for less than what VW charge for 10m and it is the exact same tape.
Shrink tubing, solder, cable ties etc

The above list will enable you to plug in between the front footwell light and the factory loom. It wont let you unplug it at the main seat connection. To do that you need the parts below. I've split this into 2 sections, 1 for cars with heated seats and 1 for cars without. You only need 1 of the below lists.

For cars with heated seats:
The plug for heated seats has empty positions so you can use these. Parts required:

Repair wire: 000 979 025 E Qty: 2
Repair Wire: 000 979 020 E Qty: 2

For cars without heated seats:

Plug: 1J0 973 332 A Qty: 2
Plug: 1J0 973 119 Qty: 2
Repair wire: 000 979 019 E Qty: 2
Repair wire: 000 979 020 E Qty: 2

Here is a schematic. Forgive the poor paint skills. Repair wires have the same terminal both ends so cut each in 2. Solder the wires together and cover with heat shrink tubing and loom tape.:



Make sure you keep the polarity because the light will only work one way around.

I dont use repair wires. I get the terminals individually and crimp them onto the wire:







- Slide seat forward and remove rear bolts
- Slide it back and remove front bolts
- Tilt seat back to expose where loom goes under carpet.
- Lift the head of the push-fit fastener then remove it





- Un-plug and remove seat. I'd recommend protecting the sill with a heavy blanket. The seat rails have sharp edges and could easily scratch the sill. Here are the plugs. Left one in seat belt buckle switch (and sensor mat on passanger seat). Middle is for airbag and right is for seat heating.



- Run wires in seat and through the protective sheath. I had to cut the cable ties to get the cables through. Fix new cable ties.







- Lift the front of the sill trim. This takes a lot of force. The illumination wires come from the rear so you will not pull or damage them. You dont need to remove the whole trim, just the front of it.

- Remove the trim to the side of the dashboard, where the fuse box was in mk5+6. You should be able to reach the back of the front light. Release the plug and plug in your new loom.

- Run the wires down along the sill and follow the path of the factory wiring to the main seat plug.



- Remove the plugs from their mounting bracket. Place the wires in the main seat plug, or your own extra plug. If you have heated seats, note the secondary locking mechanism in the plug. To unlock, you have to push the purple bit of the plug until it moves with a click.



- Put everything back and enjoy your rear footwell lights
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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:00 PM   #30
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Here are a few more pics of the front jacking point:








This is the driver's side looking forward. Remove the T20 screw securing the existing trim. Release the tabs and slide the trim rear-wards. This will take a lot of force.



Here is the factory fitted trim beside the new one:



Lube the rubber bung with washing up liquid or your lubricant of choice :wink:



Press the rubber bung into the mount:



You will need a jack to press it all the way in. Even this wont get it in fully. When you release the jack, rotate the bung until you hear it click. Make sure it is fully in before you move on.





Fit the new trim and put back in the T20 screw:



The press in the plastic jacking point with the jack:



Job Done!


I also got another nice oem part. Audi's come with a plastic piece to guide the wheel onto the hub. You only get about 2 uses out of it until the plastic threads strip. This is an aluminium one from a Phaeton/Touareg. As it's aluminium, it's very light, it's far light than you would expect. If there's interest, I'll dig out the part number:

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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #31
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Yeah im interested in the part number.

Hate having to "hang" the wheel on and accidentley chip the paint on the caliper.

Thanks for the updated jacking point pics
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:54 PM   #32
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Part number for the aluminium wheel guide is 7L0 012 223
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:15 PM   #33
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So here's a bit more detail on the door warning light mod. Again, I didn't intend on doing a how-to so I don't have pics for every step. Also note some pictures are of the drivers side and others are of the passanger side in case you notice that the 32 pin plug has extra wires in some pics. The driver's side has more wires in it.

This mod was easier to do on mk5 and mk6 as there were empty positions in the door controller to accept the wiring for the door warning lights. If your car has illuminated door sills, this is fed from the door warning light position on the door controller. This makes sense as the sills only illuminated when the door is open, and only the side with the open door illuminates. This makes the wiring more difficult as you have to somehow tap into this feed but on the other hand the door controller already has door warning lights activated (to power the sills), so no vcds coding is necessary.

The power for the sills and lights comes from pin 16 on the blue 32 pin plug in the door controller. I could not find an empty ground pin in the plug on the door controller so i decided to tap into the ground already at pin 5 in the 32 pin plug.

If you dont mind damaging the car's wiring then you can just get tap connectors and take your power and ground from the wires going to the pins mentioned above. I avoid doing this if possible. My solution is to build a loom that plugs in between the car's loom and the 32 pin plug. I then spilt the power and ground in my loom. The advantage of this is that the home-made loom can be removed and the wiring returned to factory spec without any signs of modification.

Parts needed:
Light:..............1K0 947 411 A......1 per door
Plug:...............1J0 971 972.........1 per door
Repair wire:.....000 979 019 E......1 per door
Repair wire:.....000 979 009 E......1 per door
Repair wire:.....000 979 012 E......1 per door
Door card clip:..7L6 868 243.........3 per door
0.5mm2 Thin Wall wire:...............3m per door
VW loom tape
Shrink tubing
Solder

* The A3 wiring diagram shows 0.35mm2 wire but I'm fairly sure the A3 uses leds for the door warning lights. As we are using a regular bulb, 0.5mm2 is safer.

Here is a quick sketch of the wiring loom you need to make. The 019 repair wires go in the plug. The 009's go at the far right end of the loom and the 012's are used on the little spurs off. Note that the drivers (right side) needs a slightly longer loom. This is because the 32 pin plug is closer to the door hinge on the right door.













Use a ring spanner to turn the plastic clip at the bottom of the door card 90 degrees:





Pop off the cover to the grab handle:



Remove the one bolt behind the cover an dthe other below the grab handle:





The next bit requires brute strength and care. Pop all of the clips holding the door card on. You are pretty much guaranteed to break some so do get spares.

Remove the door card and unplug the wires. Note 2 light fittings have the same plug so you could plug them back in the wrong way round. They are a black 2 pin plug. Mark which ones goes to each light. I didnt do this and it took trial and error to figure out which went where! I didnt remove the cable from the door handle to door lock as I was worried I would break it so I just let the door card lean up against the door while I worked.

This is the right side door controller with blue 32 pin plug:



Remove the plug, cut the cable tie holding the cables to it and release the white plastic piece from the blue cover.







The 2 wires we are interested in are the brown at pin 5 and the purple at pin 16:



Remove these pins from the plug and lie them back along the loom towards the rear of the door and plug in the ends of the new loom in their place:





Next join the purple and brown wires from the car loom to the spurs in the new loom. These pins will plug securely and easily hold themselves together. Put some heat shrink tubing around them to hold them together and insulate.







Now tape the loom to the existing car loom, put the 32 pin plug back together and fit a new cable tie.





Here is a picture showing the left side with the plug back in but the wiring not yet taped up and secured. You can see the 2 new grey wires coming from the 32 pin plug. These are the terminals to the far right in my diagram. You can also see the purple and brown wires that used to be plugged into the 32 pin plug. The shrink tubing on the brown wire covers where it plugs into the spur on the new loom. The purple wire wire is also joined in the same way but it's obscured by the thick bundle of cables.



The pic below is of the right side with the plug back in but the brown and purple wires not yet joined to the new loom. If you are wondering where the other spur is, you can just see it to the left of the thick brown and red cables going into the door controller.



Tape up the loom and run it beside the existing loom through the 2 hooks. Then turn it down toward the bottom of the door. In the pic below, you can see that I taped it to the door to secure it.



Now plug in your light to test it works before you refit the door card. You may need to close the door lock with a screwdriver and open it again to get the door controller to power up the light. If the sill lights up but the door warning light does not, you more than likely have the polarity wrong. Swap the pins around on the plug going into the light and try again.

If it works remove the light again and refit the door card with the wire poking out through the hole where the reflector is located. And Voila! Door warning lights are done!

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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition

Last edited by kevinm; 09-17-2014 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 09-19-2014, 10:24 AM   #34
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Nice job Kev!!

Do you know how to install warning door lights in rear doors?

Thanks!!
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:11 AM   #35
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NICE - love the lighting inside and the Seats are fab!!!! Great car and great description on everything!!!
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Old 09-21-2014, 08:47 PM   #36
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Thanks for the kind words!

@Robert: sorry I don't know how to do the rear door lights.
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Old 09-22-2014, 06:34 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Thanks for the kind words!

@Robert: sorry I don't know how to do the rear door lights.

Thanks Kevin!
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:46 PM   #38
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Hi Robert, I looked into doing the rear door lights today. It is not possible to do it the oem way in the Golf. A3's have dedicated rear door controllers that power the door warning lights. Golfs do not have rear door controllers. Their function is covered by the BCM and front door controller.
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Mods: vcds tweaks, door exit warning lights, activated traffic sign recognition
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:01 AM   #39
JohnLA
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great thread kevin.

i have no clue what you are doing (lol), but i appreciate you teaching/showing us what you have been doing.

and! i am still bummed we don't get that seat option here in the states. argh!

god bless the irish!
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:16 AM   #40
Robert_gti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinm View Post
Hi Robert, I looked into doing the rear door lights today. It is not possible to do it the oem way in the Golf. A3's have dedicated rear door controllers that power the door warning lights. Golfs do not have rear door controllers. Their function is covered by the BCM and front door controller.

HI Kevin,

A lot of thanks for the info!

I saw in a forum of china that they do the connections with the lock of the rear doors.

Regards!
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