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JB4 Logging, stacking and Map 6 Discussion

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
Thanks ObLiViOuS. What about 3AD2? Is there a list of codes somewhere. I found a page for the N54 jb4 users but idk if the codes would apply to us. I also didnt see either of the codes i got on the page.

If you convert the hex to decimal you get 15058 (or P15058). This is a manufacturer specific OBD code. Not sure what it means after a quick search and after checking the Ross-tech site. If you search the code via google and JB4, you find that others on here popped this code before.
 

Perry01

Ready to race!
Location
Hawaii and Utah
Thanks ObLiViOuS. What about 3AD2? Is there a list of codes somewhere. I found a page for the N54 jb4 users but idk if the codes would apply to us. I also didnt see either of the codes i got on the page.

Fuel rail pressure low
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Yep, as stated, convert it from hex to decimal then just search the number on Google. I just typed GTI and the code and it brought me to another post in the forum and it was for a cylinder 2 misfire :)

Edit - should be noted that George has said the next firmware update should fix code reading iirc
 

Thegoat

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
NY
Cant wait for the update. I dont really know what hex is but i googled it and found a table to convert to decimal. I emailed George too. He said drop FOL to 50. The 3b18 cylinder 2 missfire could have been trigered from the low fuel rail pressure
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock

AFR looks good at the end of the curve, but fueling seems to struggle to keep up when you first get on it as the AFR spikes up fairly high. Just a tiny bit of retard still. IAT's really climb fast when the boost curve starts its descent in the upper powerband. That is when the timing corrections occur it seems. Stock log is clean. Seems like you will need that IC or better fuel (or meth) to safely push the boost higher. How does it feel? I would email George and ask him to weigh in. Perhaps some AFR bias adjustments can be made by RPM if you turn FOL back to 60.

Edit: that AFR jump at low rpm looks similar on other cars, probably is normal or a logging anomaly.
 
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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
AFR looks good at the end of the curve, but fueling seems to struggle to keep up when you first get on it as the AFR spikes up fairly high. Just a tiny bit of retard still. IAT's really climb fast when the boost curve starts its descent in the upper powerband. That is when the timing corrections occur it seems. Stock log is clean. Seems like you will need that IC or better fuel (or meth) to safely push the boost higher. How does it feel? I would email George and ask him to weigh in. Perhaps some AFR bias adjustments can be made by RPM if you turn FOL back to 60.
Power feels better than stock. I know I need something for iats curse of living in the desert. Not good weather for boost. I'm gonna do a few other things to try and keep iats down as well like get my dp ceramic coated and a turbo blanket, I'm also probably going to eliminate the cat to help lower egt's. I made a few adjustments and I need to get another log and see what happens. I know I need an ic and/or meth but I think the clutch will come first. I might be able to pick up an R ic for 50 bucks in a few weeks.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

toledospeed

Go Kart Champion
Location
3rd rock
Power feels better than stock. I know I need something for iats curse of living in the desert. Not good weather for boost. I'm gonna do a few other things to try and keep iats down as well like get my dp ceramic coated and a turbo blanket, I'm also probably going to eliminate the cat to help lower egt's. I made a few adjustments and I need to get another log and see what happens. I know I need an ic and/or meth but I think the clutch will come first. I might be able to pick up an R ic for 50 bucks in a few weeks.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

It is so nice that adjustments can be made so easily. That heat is brutal. I lived in Tucson for 8 years and I know Yuma is even hotter on average! I keep looking at the Golf R intercooler for my 1.8t since they can be had so cheap, just not sure I want to rip the front bumper apart for only 13% more volume and slightly higher fin density. Probably all I need though here in the Midwest and with my moderate power. If I were out there, I think I would go I.E. or Wagner for sure. Good luck!
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
It is so nice that adjustments can be made so easily. That heat is brutal. I lived in Tucson for 8 years and I know Yuma is even hotter on average! I keep looking at the Golf R intercooler for my 1.8t since they can be had so cheap, just not sure I want to rip the front bumper apart for only 13% more volume and slightly higher fin density. Probably all I need though here in the Midwest and with my moderate power. If I were out there, I think I would go I.E. or Wagner for sure. Good luck!
Those are the 2 I'm going to go with mostly probably I.e but clutch is gonna come first. No sense in making more power if the clutch won't take it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Thegoat

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
NY
Did a log on my way to work. Lots of pull on cylinders 1 and 2 when I first got on it. ignition started to advance but still had some pull on cylinder 2. IAT at the start was 32F and hit 44F but the end. FOL is set to 50.

Am I getting so much timing pull from the cold IAT's or are my setting too high. Im looking for something alittle more agressive then map 1. Car is stock aside from GFB DV+

Map 6 settings:
1500 1.0
2000 2.0
2500 2.0
3000 3.0
3500 3.3
4000 3.8
4500 4.3
5000 4.3
5500 4.3
6000 4.0
6500 3.5
7000 2.8
 

Attachments

  • map 6 4th gear 4.3 add 31717 morning 25 degrees out FOL 50.jpg
    map 6 4th gear 4.3 add 31717 morning 25 degrees out FOL 50.jpg
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rscott4563

Ready to race!
Location
Australia
Did a log on my way to work. Lots of pull on cylinders 1 and 2 when I first got on it. ignition started to advance but still had some pull on cylinder 2. IAT at the start was 32F and hit 44F but the end. FOL is set to 50.



Am I getting so much timing pull from the cold IAT's or are my setting too high. Im looking for something alittle more agressive then map 1. Car is stock aside from GFB DV+



Map 6 settings:

1500 1.0

2000 2.0

2500 2.0

3000 3.0

3500 3.3

4000 3.8

4500 4.3

5000 4.3

5500 4.3

6000 4.0

6500 3.5

7000 2.8


What fuel are you running?

Cold IATs don't cause timing pull hot IATs do, cold good / hot bad.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Thegoat

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
NY
What fuel are you running?

Cold IATs don't cause timing pull hot IATs do, cold good / hot bad.



i always use 93 oct from sunoco

i thought i read on here that iat's that are too cold can cause some timing pull. maybe i misread it.

boost seems ok to me. slight spike in the beginning, possibly caused by AFR which caused the pull? IDK what else could cause the pull cuz im using good gas and iat's are cold as you say.
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Too cold is bad too.... I think below 40°F is the point where it starts to cause issues.

If you look closely, you start knocking before even going WOT, so I'm going to guess it's the temps. When it warms up a bit, try to grab another log
 

rogerp1

New member
Location
NZ
Took some 3rd gear logs today (Map 2) - it was hot out there! 32 degree celsius ambient (about 90F).

I'm interested to know how people can tell from the Map 2 logs like mine what a good absolute Map 6 setting might be? I have seen people comment that you can see where the opportunities are - can you talk that through? I've sent these to George - but interested in the thinking process you go through.

Car is a ROW (Australia) S3 8V with intake, turbo inlet pipe, 98RON with an ethanol blend of between E10 and E15. DSG.

No timing pull in the first log (IGN2 not showing in pic but was NIL) - a little pull of up to -1.3 in the second run later in the day.

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0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Are you looking to do boost targeting or additive?

If you're looking for boost targeting, check out your logs and at the RPM points, write down your above log values (for example you're at about 22-23psi at 4500rpm) and try adding 1psi. Most power will be up top, so I'd start by adding about 1 psi from 5000rpm-redline and then working below that. You'll have less room to increase from 3500-4500 usually.

For additive, I'd recommend exporting the log to a CSV (I look at all my logs in CSV) and check the target value. Go off these values in the designated RPM points and just increase them a bit, starting at 5000rpm.

For both, I would stop increasing until you start getting knock, your turbo can't flow your requested boost, or you don't want to push your turbo any harder :)
 
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