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DIY: Clutch Delay Valve removal on TSI 5MTs

surfstar

Ready to race!
Location
Cali
Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) removal for MK7 TSI 5 speeds

TL;DR
1) remove airbox
1.5) remove battery tray, see http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...n-TSI-5MTs&p=99077714&viewfull=1#post99077714 for how much more room you'll have
2) release metal clip and pull off clutch line (be sure to catch all the fluid with rags)
3) use something thin, long, and sharp – I found that my 12v test light was perfect for this. You need to push it straight into the block, where the hose just was. The 12v prong is tapered and will actually push into the delay valve snugly, so you can simply pull it out, along with the rubber grommet that kept it in place. Save/discard, your choice.
4) Re-insert clutch hose, push clip down, bleed clutch (DOT 4 and use a 5/16" ish hose and catch bottle!)


My, much longer, experience:
To read about all the praise of this DIY and/or the ECS clutch bleeder block kit see: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745

Not much info on the 5MT, though; with someone posting a photo of our different 'block' and guessing it doesn't have a CDV! Based on how poorly this clutch behaves when stopped on a hill with a heavy load and/or AC on, though, I knew it behaved like there was one installed.

I finally had some free time to figure out how to find and remove it. Unfortunately as the guinea pig, I did too much work and spent hours instead of minutes. Once I had it removed, I realized that I did not have to actually remove the entire block to get it out. For the 6MT it comes out from under the bleeder screw. The 5MT does not. Of course I did not know this until I had completely removed that clutch 'block', which is a PITA on the 5MT due to the awkward location of two 13mm bolts that hold it to the transmission. They are too close to allow an offset wrench on them, and very hard to get a socket on. Wobble extensions and all kinds of cursing, finally got it free. Then when renstalling, its actually worse, as there is some weird rubber covered spring going into the transmission, which makes starting those PITA 13mm bolts, even more of a PITA. And your shifters are in the way as well. My fingers/hands are still sore.

Hopefully the pics, along with the short instruction above, will clarify how you can do this while leaving the 'block' in place. All that has to be removed is the clutch line, to gain access to the CDV for removal. You do need something, long, skinny, and tapered for it to come out easily, though. Luckily my 12v test light was perfect. The one thing that went right that day for me.












It feels like a normal clutch now, when driving. Not dampened and numb like previously. As I plan on keeping this car for a long time, this was worth the hassle for me to figure it out. I much rather would have been able to do the short/simple version, though, without removing those damn bolts!

Enjoy

(more user photos and tips at the other site too http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8125994-DIY-Clutch-Delay-Valve-removal-on-TSI-5MTs )
 

murtaza911

Ready to race!
Location
Ontario Canada
Awesome! Thanks for this.
I absolutely hate the clutch in my car. I've stalled my golf more times than I have total in the past 13 years of driving. I'll definitely be doing this once I'm back home in a few weeks.
 

Josh64

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
The clutch feels fine to me stock, I can shift as fast as the engine RPM rate of change will allow without issue.
 

surfstar

Ready to race!
Location
Cali
The clutch feels fine to me stock, I can shift as fast as the engine RPM rate of change will allow without issue.

Ever stopped on a steep-ish incline, with a few passengers or a loaded up cargo area? When you try to get going, the CDV will force you to slip the clutch way too much in order to not stall, as it delays full clutch engagement. Very annoying and the main reason I sought to figure out how to remove it in 5MTs.
I'm not a speed racer and faster shifts aren't necessary. Smoother shifting was also a noticeable benefit, though.

Without the CDV, you should be able to get back on full power after a fast shift, versus with the CDV delaying the clutch release. Your actual shifting time may be similar, but return to power application would be quicker with the CDV removed.
 

Josh64

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
Yes that is interesting, thanks. I may be interested in trying this in that case. How long does the job take? Is properly bleeding the clutch line difficult?
 

Wideopentuning

Ready to race!
Location
Maple Valley
Just pulled mine out. Good call on the testlight! It popped right out. I didn't remove the slave. I added TyrolSport shift cable bracket bushings at the same time. I'll report back after some drive time.
 

TankTopMK7

Passed Driver's Ed
Thanks for this! I was hesitant at first but finally pulled the trigger today. What a difference! I would definitely recommend taking out the battery tray especially if you don't plan on removing the block as access to the CDV faces toward the cabin making it a pain to get to.

FYI, I clamped the hose down prior to pulling it out of the block as I am lazy and didn't want to clean up after :)



Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 

TankTopMK7

Passed Driver's Ed
Going to knock this out tomorrow or Monday, where did you get your fluid from. Dealer? I've never messed with a clutch on a newer one before. But with the drag strip wednesday I'd like to have this out!
I got mine at Walmart. Tbh, my fluid reservoir didnt fluctuate much afterwards and thoroughly bleeding out the air only took about 100ml extra fluid

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
So I guess I really was wrong about the base golf not having a clutch delay valve, as I just did this today (I still think the 5mt's clutch feels better than the 6mt's clutch stock). I was able to do it without removing the battery tray without too much problem, just sore hands from being a bit squeezed.
Anyways, a problem I ran into while bleeding the clutch is that when I re-tightened the bleeder valve I heard some loud cracking then suddenly the top broke off! luckily it still holds a seal, and the bleeding hole is a hex pattern so I was able to use an Allen wrench to continue adjusting it, but there was very clearly some large air pockets in the piece causing it to break with very little force!


I'll be calling the dealership soon to see what they can do, but when that inevitably fails, anyone know where I can buy another? I'm having some difficulty finding one online.
 
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HOT H2O

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Canada
Awesome writeup, thanks!!

So, after looking at the assembly when compared to an R (or GTI) I too initially came to the conclusion I would have to endure the headache of removing the bleeder unit from the transmission.. Then I stumbled upon your thread and you saved me from having to make the same 'mistake' you did. As per your follow-up I simply went in blind, and fished out the offending little bastards! Unlike you however, I did not have great success using a tapering object like a punch - I tried various sizes. I ultimately used forceps with great success! I just reached in and pulled out like a skilled surgeon haha!

Oh, and I did not remove my battery or battery tray either, as I was already in there and had my airbox and shifter assembly removed (Shift levers, end links), and I had a good amount of room to work with.

Anyways, thanks again!

 

Mercfh

Ready to race!
Location
United States
Im glad it's not just me that experiences how bad this clutch is: Do others also experience the almost stalls/shudders that come with it? It just feels so unsteady I feel like. Even at RPM's above 1k when starting off from a stop it feels "vibratey" like the clutch just isn't very stable until u kick it up closer to 2k (which seems...wrong)

I've been driving a manual for a good 7 years now too, so I know it's not just my driving.
 
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