BravoMike
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Indianapolis
The following is a review of the ECS brand bleeder block that is a direct replacement to the stock bleeder block for the 6-speed manual transmission.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2586656...hm8xQP_yz4OB1MNanvL6ePsyjeuHiUnSEeRoCR6Hw_wcB
About two weeks ago, I did the free mod of removing the diaphragm from the OEM bleeder block and immediately noticed the gains of smoother shifting and more direct pedal to clutch feel. Thanks to LeGti for posting such a nice DIY on the easy mod of removing this diaphragm.
Here is LeGti’s DIY for those interested.
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745
I had placed an order with ECS shortly before this DIY was posted so I got the chance to compare a free mod with the $100 ECS bleeder block.
Initial impressions when I got the package from ECS is that it is a high quality aluminum piece with a one way bleeder valve on top. Their block also comes with new o-rings and clips. The stock o-rings looked to be the same size, but I decided to install the new one that were included with this kit. The clips looked kinda cheap and to be honest seem to fit looser than the OEM clips. In fact, one was so loose that I had to squeeze the ends together to make it a bit tighter.
Here is a picture comparing the ECS bleeder block (left) to the OEM (right). Note that they are not oriented in the same direction. The part that fits into the slave cylinder is pointed up on the ECS piece whereas that end is pointed down with the OEM piece.
Below is a picture of the ECS bleeder block (left) opening compared to the OEM bleeder block (right) with the diaphragm removed. You can see that the ECS piece opens up the hole a bit more. It appeared to make the diameter of the bleeder block the same diameter of the hydraulic line, but I did not think to measure this when installing.
Installation was very easy. You literally just unsnap the OEM bleeder block and reinstall the new one. There will be a little bit of hydraulic fluid loss but just remember to top off the reservoir when you are done bleeding the clutch line. The only part that needs to be removed to get to the bleeder block is the intake. Total time to install and get everything back together again was about 30 minutes.
Tools needed:
T-25 torx screw driver for the intake screws.
Large channel lock pliers to move the clamp on the intake.
Small pick (I used my smallest punch) to remove the old o-rings.
Flat head screw driver to remove the clamps off of the OEM bleeder block.
Shop towels to clean up any hydraulic spills and to “catch” any fluid that comes out.
8 MM open ended wrench for the bleeder screw.
Brake bleeder kit (optional) to catch hydraulic fluid and watch for bubbles as you bleed the clutch.
Hands with opposable thumbs (thumbs may be optional) for everything else.
One thing to note about the install is that the ECS bleeder block does not have that flange on the side that goes onto the slave cylinder that holds it in place. This means that when you are bleeding the clutch, you need to hold onto the ECS bleeder block so that it won’t move around or cause extra stress on the slave cylinder.
I had the chance drive for a week with the free mod linked above and a week with the ECS bleeder block installed. My driving impressions when compared to the free mod is that the ECS bleeder block makes the clutch a little more smooth and slightly more direct feeling. Overall not a huge improvement over the free mod, but I’d say that the free mod gets you 85-90% to where the ECS bleeder block is. If you go from the OEM bleeder block with the diaphragm installed to the ECS bleeder block, the feel of the clutch will be a huge improvement.
Would I recommend this? Maybe. If you can pick this up for about $100 and if gives you free shipping with your order then it may be worth it. I could still feel slight hesitation when engaging the last bit of the clutch which caused a slight jerk in the last bit of travel of the clutch pedal if I were shifting fast. If you can feel this after trying out removing the diaphragm and wish your clutch engagement was completely smooth, then I would recommend you try the ECS bleeder block.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2586656...hm8xQP_yz4OB1MNanvL6ePsyjeuHiUnSEeRoCR6Hw_wcB
About two weeks ago, I did the free mod of removing the diaphragm from the OEM bleeder block and immediately noticed the gains of smoother shifting and more direct pedal to clutch feel. Thanks to LeGti for posting such a nice DIY on the easy mod of removing this diaphragm.
Here is LeGti’s DIY for those interested.
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745
I had placed an order with ECS shortly before this DIY was posted so I got the chance to compare a free mod with the $100 ECS bleeder block.
Initial impressions when I got the package from ECS is that it is a high quality aluminum piece with a one way bleeder valve on top. Their block also comes with new o-rings and clips. The stock o-rings looked to be the same size, but I decided to install the new one that were included with this kit. The clips looked kinda cheap and to be honest seem to fit looser than the OEM clips. In fact, one was so loose that I had to squeeze the ends together to make it a bit tighter.
Here is a picture comparing the ECS bleeder block (left) to the OEM (right). Note that they are not oriented in the same direction. The part that fits into the slave cylinder is pointed up on the ECS piece whereas that end is pointed down with the OEM piece.
Below is a picture of the ECS bleeder block (left) opening compared to the OEM bleeder block (right) with the diaphragm removed. You can see that the ECS piece opens up the hole a bit more. It appeared to make the diameter of the bleeder block the same diameter of the hydraulic line, but I did not think to measure this when installing.
Installation was very easy. You literally just unsnap the OEM bleeder block and reinstall the new one. There will be a little bit of hydraulic fluid loss but just remember to top off the reservoir when you are done bleeding the clutch line. The only part that needs to be removed to get to the bleeder block is the intake. Total time to install and get everything back together again was about 30 minutes.
Tools needed:
T-25 torx screw driver for the intake screws.
Large channel lock pliers to move the clamp on the intake.
Small pick (I used my smallest punch) to remove the old o-rings.
Flat head screw driver to remove the clamps off of the OEM bleeder block.
Shop towels to clean up any hydraulic spills and to “catch” any fluid that comes out.
8 MM open ended wrench for the bleeder screw.
Brake bleeder kit (optional) to catch hydraulic fluid and watch for bubbles as you bleed the clutch.
Hands with opposable thumbs (thumbs may be optional) for everything else.
One thing to note about the install is that the ECS bleeder block does not have that flange on the side that goes onto the slave cylinder that holds it in place. This means that when you are bleeding the clutch, you need to hold onto the ECS bleeder block so that it won’t move around or cause extra stress on the slave cylinder.
I had the chance drive for a week with the free mod linked above and a week with the ECS bleeder block installed. My driving impressions when compared to the free mod is that the ECS bleeder block makes the clutch a little more smooth and slightly more direct feeling. Overall not a huge improvement over the free mod, but I’d say that the free mod gets you 85-90% to where the ECS bleeder block is. If you go from the OEM bleeder block with the diaphragm installed to the ECS bleeder block, the feel of the clutch will be a huge improvement.
Would I recommend this? Maybe. If you can pick this up for about $100 and if gives you free shipping with your order then it may be worth it. I could still feel slight hesitation when engaging the last bit of the clutch which caused a slight jerk in the last bit of travel of the clutch pedal if I were shifting fast. If you can feel this after trying out removing the diaphragm and wish your clutch engagement was completely smooth, then I would recommend you try the ECS bleeder block.
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