...want to know what is the best way to run in the new engine...
This is an often-debated subject. On one hand people say follow exactly what the owner's manual says (which itself is often very vague and subject to interpretation). OTOH there are guys like "Motoman" who say run it hard:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The people who say break it in easy are often unaware that certain car mfgs run each engine on a dyno at high power before building the car. I don't know what VW does for the EA888 engine, but some mfgs (like Ferrari) track test each *new* car before selling it. Even a brand new one has already been thrashed pretty hard at the factory track. That doesn't ruin the engine.
Lots of people take "European delivery" of Porsches, BMWs and Audis so they can drive them on the Autobahn at sustained high speed -- when brand new.
I once knew a group of young tech entrepreneurs who all bought new Porsche 911s with European delivery. One guy was so worried about break in, when they were on the factory tour he looked up the technician who built his engine -- each one is assembled by one person -- and asked him what break-in procedure should he use, considering they were headed for the Autobahn. The technician grinned and said "just lift throttle for overpasses".
The book "Sportbike Performance Handbook" discussed how newer manufacturing and metallurgy technologies affect the optimal running in procedure on new motorcycle engines:
"Asked about break-in of race engines, Wiseco Piston Company's Tom Kipp, Sr, said: "After about 20 hard pulls on the dyno, the blowby volume has dropped by half and that seems to be it".
"Thirty years go, piston rings were less well-finished, and the cylinder wall had to be used as a file to shave them into intimate contact. This was the function of the old, relatively coarse, 60-degree crosshatch honing pattern used as a cylinder wall finish. This degree of roughness was essential to remove the necessary metal from the rings to make the seal."
"Today, the standard wall finish is...called a plateau finish. The cylinder is first coarse-honed, then finished with either a much finer hone or a plateau brush. This leaves the cylinder wall as a series of smooth-surfaced islands, surrounded by the deeper incissions left by the coarse hone. The incissions limit how far any scuffing -- smearing of metal -- can go, and they also serve to retain oil."
"Even with such accurately manufactured parts, bike engines still require break-in to finally seat their piston rings."
"Sensible instructions for breaking in on the street call for something surprisingly similar: frequent applications of full throttle acceleration, but without holding high rpms or load for long periods. Between throttle applications, the engine oil system can carry away wear particles to the filter, and excess heat developed in areas contact has time to diffuse."
"Engines today are so well manufactured, with such good surface finishes, that it takes real power to push the smooth parts through the separating oil-and-additive film, into the partial contact that is necessary to achieving a final, high-quality fit."
"You may have heard the old-timers say, 'Break it in fast, and it'll be fast. Break it in slow, and it'll always be slow.' There is enough truth in this to make it memorable"
There are valid opinions on both sides of the break-in issue. Besides anecdotal experience, nobody really knows for sure.
To know for certain you'd have to treat it like a medical question, say whether a certain diet causes cancer. You'd have to follow dozens or hundreds of new vehicles over their operational life, meticulously tracking the break in, operational use, maintenance, environment, etc. Such studies are expensive. Even for a car manufacturer to do this, they'd have to instrument a fleet of cars during break in, analyze the data, correlate it to service issues, etc. They don't do that.
I'd personally be afraid to really thrash a brand new car, but I have seen that happen with brand new sport bikes on the racetrack, and it generally causes no problem. Some manufacturers and dealers even offer an extra-cost "dyno break in" procedure where they rapidly ramp up the engine load on a dyno, culminating in extended max rpm, max throttle operation for extended periods, then they change the oil.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'd mainly avoid obvious things -- don't hop on the freeway and set cruise control for long periods, etc. Vary engine rpm and load -- that kind of thing.
